XTX200 vs B2 vs ST1

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jeckyll:
If you are looking at Atomics and cold water, I'd look at an M1 or a sealed first stage Z2.

But I may be biased as I happen to have the above regs. Breathing wise, I can't tell the difference between the Atomics and my buddies XTX200. But I hate the Apex mouthpiece and he doesn't like the Atomic mouthpiece. :)

YMMV.

Bjorn

hehe.. The Apeks mouthpiece make you want to stick you tounge in it.. I always use the Scubapro mouthpiece, not the ones that come with new regs but the $12 replacement ones..
 
You can install a dry seal system on any atomic reg. However it is a very messy venture as it involves grease packing in the 1st stage. This comes standard on the M1 and the T2 regulators. Atomic says to use christo lube which is actually alot better than silicone and the only choice if you want to use nitrox with the regulator. However christo lube is very expensive as you have to use about $15 worth of it to pack the 1st stage, so most shops will charge extra for this. I use 2 atx 200 (fsr) 1st stages and love them alot. I also like atomics alot too, I've worked on both brands of regulators and the perfomance of the two are excellent as well as the quality, but their both expensive to buy and repair. What kind of cold water diving are you doing? Chances are unless your doing ice diving or deep technical dives, you probably won't need to have a dry sealed 1st stage.
 
I use my Atomic in water that ranges from 35 degrees up through 80 water and I've never had a problem with it free flowing. The Apeks is a sealed diaphram vs the unsealed piston of the Atomic and for ice diving I would go with the Apeks but in water warmer than 40 or so I wouldn't worry about it.
 
Arcaporale:
...
However christo lube is very expensive as you have to use about $15 worth of it to pack the 1st stage, so most shops will charge extra for this. I use 2 atx 200 (fsr) 1st stages and love them alot. I...
.

Well, the way I see it, I do less that 150 dives / year. My service interval is 2 years or every 300 dives.

I have 2 atomic first stages, so that's $30 of christo lube over 2 years of diving. Now, I'm no expert at accounting, but I'm pretty sure that compared to what I spend on this hobby, that is absolutely negligible. :rofl3:

If I had dozens of regs then maybe it would be an issue :)

Actually, I have started buying Salvo regs (i.e. for pony bottle) and I got to tell you that I'd be tempted to get those all around if I had to start over again. Cheap, easy to get serviced (as the service kits are available for sale to anyone) and they breath great at any recreational depth...
 
judestudio:
Is there a problem with Zirconium/Palladium? I've yet to hear any corrosion problem from Atomic regs....but is this something I need to worry about for getting the zirconium over titanium?

No, there is no problem with brass plated with zirconium/palladium. Why would you think so? Just because it is more affordable? :confused:

The different would be that titanium does not corrode, period, whereas brass does, a little bit over time. But almost every regulator is made of brass, and it hasn't been a problem, at least if you get it serviced periodically, which takes care of any corrosion.
Of course if you intend to not rinse your regulator after dives in the ocean, then titanium will be great. But then your first stage will have to be titanium too.. ($$$$$$$) :wink: Oh, and your hose fittings will still corrode, because they're made of brass.
 
Can any of you tell me anything about Dive Tank Dive Shop (divetank.com; Vast Ventures, Inc.)? I am thinking of buying from them but don't know anything about their reputation. Are they an authorized dealer for Apeks regulators?

Also, which would you pick for warm and cold temperatures, the Aqualung Legend Glacia or the Apex XTX 200?

Thank.
 
paulwlee:
No, the B2 and Z2 have the same brass first stage (with the first stage swivel option on the Z2). The reason that the B2 is pricier than the Z2 (other than the second stage swivel) is that the B2 has a Titanium air tube and the Z2 has a zirconium/palladium-plated brass air tube.
Why titanium in the air tube? Is the air tube more prone to corrosion than other parts of the reg :huh:
 
judestudio:
Why titanium in the air tube? Is the air tube more prone to corrosion than other parts of the reg :huh:

Probably not. If at all, my guess is that there will be less performance degradation due to corrosion in the 2nd stage air tube compared to that in the first stage. In the first stage, an o-ring moves against the metal surface, but not in the second stage air tube.

But a second stage air tube is just one tube, whereas a first stage body has a number of pieces, the machining of which is probably more complex, not to mention there being more material. If I am in the shoes of the Atomic marketing person trying to position a product between an all-brass (there are still Ti components in the Z2 such as the second stage spring, orifice and lever, but big parts are brass) and an all-titanium regulator, it's an easy choice to make the second stage Ti and the first stage brass for the model-in-the-middle. An added benefit is that it makes the second stage lighter for comfort, although some may argue it's barely noticeable.
 
jeckyll:
But I hate the Apex mouthpiece and he doesn't like the Atomic mouthpiece. :)

YMMV.

YMMV indeed. I don't like the Atomic mouthpiece much (although it's better than most other mouthpieces, I still need to hold it with my jaw) but really like the Aqualung(and now Apeks) Comfobite. First thing I do when I buy another (Atomic) regulator is changing out the mouthpiece to a Comfobite. :wink:
 
Thanks paulwlee.

Has anyone tried Apeks? How would you rate its dryness, esp. if comparing to Atomic? I know how everyone praise about Atomic being dry in all positions, even when you're doing a cartwheel (something like that...), is Apeks as good?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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