Xtar D26 1100 vs D26 1600 Review

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That happened to me once. My line was still on the bolt snap, too. A sharp edge in the light's lanyard hole had cut through it. Now, instead of tying on cave line, I use 2 small zip ties to attach my bolt snap to my light. Haven't lost a light since.

Oh, and on the 1600's "lock": I've had mine locked and then turn on accidentally - during a dive! - more than once. It appears that it just gets pressed between my arm and body or something. And, of course, it's clipped to my shoulder strap and pointing more or less backwards, so I don't even know it's on until a buddy tells me.

My current protocol is to carry a 1600 as my primary - i.e. in a soft Goodman on my hand - and have an 1100 (or 2) locked and clipped to me as a backup.

Are you worried about the zip ties might "crack" when you least expect it? I know after some time they get brittle. What's your thoughts on zip ties vs cave line with super glue?
 
Are you worried about the zip ties might "crack" when you least expect it? I know after some time they get brittle. What's your thoughts on zip ties vs cave line with super glue?

I put one zip tie a bit looser than the other. I'm trusting that they won't both fail at the same time - and that I will notice if one breaks.

Cave line with super glue is not going to stop a sharp edge from cutting the line. Some other folks on here have told me in the past to use a file and smooth out the lanyard hole on my lights. Using zip ties seems a LOT easier....
 
That's it, I'm zip tying my cave line super glued bolt snaps....:cool:
 
I use a small stainless split ring that is attached to the light and d-ring. It wont ever break.

In the very highly unlikely event that your light (or anything connected to a bolt snap) gets stuck on something I thought the idea was to be able to cut it loose? Having something attached to a split ring could be an entanglement hazard at some point that you can't cut loose.

I'm all about dive and let dive, so I'm not knocking it....just giving you a different perspective.
 
I have the D26 and love it. Gets nice burn time and lights up the night if I need it. Wish the lock feature was better, but I don't have a problem with it.
 
In the very highly unlikely event that your light (or anything connected to a bolt snap) gets stuck on something I thought the idea was to be able to cut it loose? Having something attached to a split ring could be an entanglement hazard at some point that you can't cut loose.

I'm all about dive and let dive, so I'm not knocking it....just giving you a different perspective.

I agree about the safety aspect, however for the type of diving I do its highly unlikely that my light will get caught and cause me to get stuck. Plus, i find it equally impossible to cut the small knot off the bolt snap in the event that this rare occasion actually happens.
 
I agree about the safety aspect, however for the type of diving I do its highly unlikely that my light will get caught and cause me to get stuck. Plus, i find it equally impossible to cut the small knot off the bolt snap in the event that this rare occasion actually happens.

Hey, I would still dive with you:), that's not a reason to get scratched off the list. The odds of it getting caught are pretty astronomical.
 
Small zip ties are easy enough to break without resorting to trying to actually cut it.

I'm just sayin'...
 
That 1100 looks like decent value. Any idea how current draw compares at max output? The 1600 is stated quite a bit longer burn time than the 1100 (2.5 vs 2.0), but at 600-650 lumen, the specs look more similar. Any idea whether that stated 2.5hr burn time is real?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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