XS HP80 vs Faber HP80

[Hatul]

Quote Originally Posted by halocline View Post
Is this what you're looking for?

72 cu ft Standard
Service pressure: 2250 psi
Working pressure: 2475 psi (2250 psi +10%)
Actual air capacity: 71.2 ft3 (at a working pressure of 2475 psi)
Outer diameter: 6.9 in
Length without valve: 25.1 in
Empty weight: 26 lbs (w/o valve)
Buoyancy Empty: 0 lbs (w/valve)
Buoyancy Full: -5.4 lbs (w/valve)

Capacity at:
2500 71.9
2600 74.7
2700 77.6
2800 80.5
2900 83.4
3000 86.3


Thanks for this great info. I called my LDS (Pacific Wilderderness) and they said that only for the first hydro period is the + 10% rating allowed, afterwards they would only fill to 2250. That would only give me 2250/2475 *71.2 = 65 cu feet, which is not enough. I can't really ask someone to break the law for me. Transfilling from my HP tanks I would lose 15cu ft from my big tank making it effectively an 80, especially since the HP tanks are often underfilled a bit.

Another two issues are, changing to a Pro Valve is another cost of some $80, and the narrower tank means the tank bands have to be adjusted from my HP100 each time I change tanks.

So I'm thinking of getting the XS HP80, which Roger has in stock for $290. The short length of this tank may not be an issue for me since I'm only 5'6" tall.

Adam

 

[parzdiver]

Thanks for this great info. I called my LDS (Pacific Wilderderness) and they said that only for the first hydro period is the + 10% rating allowed, afterwards they would only fill to 2250. That would only give me 2250/2475 *71.2 = 65 cu feet, which is not enough. I can't really ask someone to break the law for me. Transfilling from my HP tanks I would lose 15cu ft from my big tank making it effectively an 80, especially since the HP tanks are often underfilled a bit.

They are wrong about the + rating. The + rating can be given on any hydro if they have the proper REE number. Many new tanks have that number printed on it and you can find numbers for older tanks on-line, but the rating is simply based on specific testing and can be done for the life of the tank. I know people that continue to get the + rating on tanks from the 60's. Never a question at a knowledgeable shop.

A quick search found this document http://docketsinfo.dot.gov/reports/rspa/2003-06/030011.pdf on the DOT web page that indicates the + rating can be given after any hydro.

 

[cool_hardware52]

The short HP80 is sometimes referred to as a bowling ball with a valve.

Cannonball with a valve, at least the old -7 lbs empty ones.

I call 'em "Satan's own cylinder"

Tobin

 

[Hatul]

Cannonball with a valve, at least the old -7 lbs empty ones.

I call 'em "Satan's own cylinder"

Tobin

That must refer to the Faber HP 80 tank, not the Faber FX or the XS HP80. The XS tank is -3 lb empty.

Yes my LDS was misinformed but it sounds like a common misconception, (that the + rating can be only give in the first hydro period) so I don't thing they were deliberately trying to rip me off.

I learned much from this discussion and in the end bought the XS HP80, a nice fresh one with a 6/11 hydro date and the new safety valve with the color indicator. It should make changing from my big tanks easy, as the empty buoyancy is almost the same and the diameter is the same. The short length may help my trim as it will put more weight near the head and I'm leg heavy. Looking forward to trying it out.

Adam

 

[eelnoraa]

i was told that the + rating for LP tank, once you will lose it (say DS forget to request the +), you lose it forever. You can't bring back the "+" on a tank that was previouly hydro'ed without the "+". Any true to that?

 

[Rainer]

i was told that the + rating for LP tank, once you will lose it (say DS forget to request the +), you lose it forever. You can't bring back the "+" on a tank that was previouly hydro'ed without the "+". Any true to that?

That is incorrect.

 

[halocline]

Jeez, that plus thing really is like Chinese arithmetic to our illustrious community of dive professionals.....I even had a hydro shop stamp the words "no plus" in a LP72 because they couldn't find the REE number. Idiots!

Its very simple. There's no additional test, the shop only needs to know the REE number, which is a volume in CC, and if the tank expands less than that during the test, it passes and gets the +. BY FAR the most difficult part of the process is finding a hydro facility and/or dive shop that isn't woefully ignorant about this.

 

[Eric Sedletzky]

I'm really sick of the whole trying to get a + rating, REE numbers, and the whole voodoo behind it. I'm also sick of dive shops who set policy on idiotic misinformation, personal grudges, and ignorance.
I wish hydro facilities and dive shops would just get it straight.
Make REE numbers available and as easy to get instead of this hush hush game and pretending to not know what we're talking about.
And come up with a standard that if a tank has a current hydro and VIP it is cleared to be filled, PERIOD!

Sorry for the rant.