XDeep Stealth Help?

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Sidemount_Stu

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Messages
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Location
Cambridgeshire, UK
# of dives
200 - 499
Hello peoples....

I'm in the process of setting up my new XDeep Stealth 2 harness, and wondering if any of you XDeep divers can help me out with some advice.

1) I realise that exact tailoring will be individual to me and will need some adjustment when i first start test diving it, to get it right, but as a rough guide for a starting point, how long roughly should the loop be on each side?

I'm opting for the Loop Bungee system, where one loop is created each side independently, running through a small loop of bungee on the harness strap to make sure it's always easy to locate. (I hope this description makes sense)

2) I'm aware it may be different in the water, but when i put the harness on, on dry land to check i've got all the sizing etc correct, I notice that when i add the wing over the top, it seems to cover up the square metal mounting points (like D rings) that come pre-attached at the back of each hip. As i'm going to be diving steel cylinders, i figure i'll be most likely to utilise these and when covered they seem quite difficult to access for clipping on/off.

Is this something that is alleviated once in the water, or do I need to move the Square D rings further out along the waist strap? Or maybe I shouldn't be considering to use these clip points at all?

any help/advice will be gratefully received.....

Thanks

Stu.
 
Bearing in mind that I'm not an expert--I've just dived with the Stealth a handful of times plus change:

1) I think the loop should reach your nipple. (Can I say "nipples"?)

2) It sounds like you're just wearing the wing too low. Those square D rings are there to be used, for clipping off spools, pigtail and markers, stowing unused clips, etc.
 
If you're just starting, an instructor or someone who is knowledgeable about rig setup is essential. Sidemount rigs are more personal and it takes a bit of tinkering to get everything just right. A good part of the course is dedicated to rig setup and you would expect adjustments during the course and even after. A wide angle stick-on automotive convex (blind spot) mirror like this one ( Round 3.75" Adjustable Stick-On Convex HotSpot Mirror #49304 | CIPA USA ) is really helpful underwater so you can check your gear and trim while diving. You just remove the sticky backing, punch two holes, thread some line through, then tie it to a snap-bolt and presto!
 
Nipples is a good place to start, although I believe you'll end up shortening them up a bit, especially if you're using steel cylinders. I'm also assuming that you'll be wearing a drysuit so I would also put an extra tri-glide on each side for the small bungee loops that you're threading your large bungee loops through. It'll make finding the bungee easier.
I would wear the wing a little higher. And I would move the square d-rings out a bit. You can clip whatever you want to them, it's your bcd. When diving steels, I use the square d-rings.
One other hint, tie the bauble for the dump valve as close to the dump as you can. It'll make finding it a lot easier.
 
Nipples is a good place to start, although I believe you'll end up shortening them up a bit, especially if you're using steel cylinders.

Stupid question, but this is presumably the end of the loop when pulled taught, but not stretched?

I'm also assuming that you'll be wearing a drysuit so I would also put an extra tri-glide on each side for the small bungee loops that you're threading your large bungee loops through. It'll make finding the bungee easier.
I would wear the wing a little higher. And I would move the square d-rings out a bit. You can clip whatever you want to them, it's your bcd. When diving steels, I use the square d-rings.
One other hint, tie the bauble for the dump valve as close to the dump as you can. It'll make finding it a lot easier.

Some great nuggets of usefulness there.... thanks.... much appreciated. (and yes, i'll be in a Drysuit)
 
I use a continuous bungee loop with my Stealth system. I start with a knotted end then pass the cord through one of the holes in the metal shoulder plate. The cord then passes through a rubber O-ring on the shoulder harness and loops back to the shoulder plate where it will pass through two holes before continuing on to the other shoulder harness. This arrangement is illustrated in the Stealth 2.0 manual. It allows some tension adjustment between sides, even in the water with help from a buddy.

I place the rubber O-rings below my metal D-rings, yes about nipple height. The loops are easy to catch with a thumb and stretch around the extension of the modular valves. The loops should be just tight enough to draw the valves up towards the armpits, but not so tight that they are difficult to stretch over the valves. With lighter weight aluminum tanks, the bungee loops are just enough to support the tanks when entering or leaving the water. With heavier tanks, I use a bolt snap attached to the tank valve with a short loop of paracord or similar to support the tanks until I'm in the water. Once in the water it's easier to adjust position and loop the bungee around the valves.

When switching from drysuit to wetsuit, I simply shorten the bungee loops by pulling each of the knotted ends a little ways through the shoulder plate and tie an extra knot. Another thing I've done is substitute stiff 3/8" (7mm) red bungee for the black material supplied in the kit. This allow easy visual ID once you have your BC attached, as its upper bungees tend to pass around your body in the same area.
 
So not for clipping cylinders too then? Just Ancillaries?

Not the way I do it (maybe some people use them for stage bottles? no idea), but I know there's a lot of variation in sidemounting, so I'm going to echo what Pao said... get an instructor and at least learn one self-consistent, reasoned configuration.

Stupid question, but this is presumably the end of the loop when pulled taught, but not stretched?

That's what I meant, anyway. Sorry, I should have clarified.
 
can someone tell me how to shorten the two "nodes" distance from each other ? I have the TEC version, the weight pouch "appears" to be fully integrated, there is velcro and belt slides everywhere i can not seem to access it. Do I need to unscrew that bolt inside to shorten it ?
 
1) I realise that exact tailoring will be individual to me and will need some adjustment when i first start test diving it, to get it right, but as a rough guide for a starting point, how long roughly should the loop be on each side?

- The loop must run horizontally from the rear to the front, just beneath the armpits.
- Insert your thumbs under 1 strand of the loop on each side....
--- It should take moderate tension to reach the nipples when pulled forwards
--- It should take significant tension to reach the sternum when pulled forwards.
- Use the included rubber O-rings as the base (on shoulder straps for the loop bungees (works well !!)
- Use metal D-rings on the front harness (not essential for steel cylinders, really)


In respect to general sizing of the harness:

- The shoulder plate should sit just below the prominent bone in the bottom of your neck/upper spine.
- The lumbar plate should sit just above the 'crack' of your buttocks (many incorrectly put it in the lower back)
- The waist band should sit quite low on the hips, not high on the waist.
- Many divers set-up these rigs (and similar) too high on the waist.
 

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