Worthington (XS) Steel Tank Valve Torque
- Thread starter Doc Harry
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XS Scuba
Contributor
potablewater
Contributor
I also just obtained Worthington HP 130's with Thermo valves, and I'm about to put them on the tanks as well. So I guess i'm buying a torque wrench at home depot to get this right.
Thanks XS Scuba for jumping in with the answer to the amount of ft/lbs.
All the best,
Geoff
crpntr133
lost, even with a compass
Ever seen a dive shop use a torque wrench?? This isn't rocket science and 50-75lbs of torque isn't much. Most guys when assembling doubles will do one valve on a tank, then the isolater and then the other valve. Spin the tank on last. I put a boot on the tank and use that to get it tight. Never had a problem.
Randy43068
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So true!! We hand tighten 'em then give them a nudge. When filled those valves are not going to spin. The sealing action is with the "O" ring not the threads.
XS Scuba
Contributor
Hey Guys:
I'm hearing you. As manufactures / distributors we like to think every cylinder is strapped down and tightened to the specified torque. In reality I know from working 25 plus years in a dive store what goes on.
Let me add to what other's have said. When a valve is correctly tightened to a cylinder there should be metal to metal contact. That is the boss, / flange of the valve should be in contact with the neck of the cylinder. Valves should be tightened beyond "hand tight". A 15" adjustable wrench should be used across the base of the valve (rather then the face of the valve) to "snug" the valve beyond hand tight. An inspection should follow tightening the valve. The valve / cylinder interface should be brought to eye level. The cylinder should be rotated 360 degrees insuring metal to metal contact all the around.
We do not recommend the use of a rubber mallet during installation or removal.
I'm hearing you. As manufactures / distributors we like to think every cylinder is strapped down and tightened to the specified torque. In reality I know from working 25 plus years in a dive store what goes on.
Let me add to what other's have said. When a valve is correctly tightened to a cylinder there should be metal to metal contact. That is the boss, / flange of the valve should be in contact with the neck of the cylinder. Valves should be tightened beyond "hand tight". A 15" adjustable wrench should be used across the base of the valve (rather then the face of the valve) to "snug" the valve beyond hand tight. An inspection should follow tightening the valve. The valve / cylinder interface should be brought to eye level. The cylinder should be rotated 360 degrees insuring metal to metal contact all the around.
We do not recommend the use of a rubber mallet during installation or removal.
Randy43068
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No mention of a rubber mallet in my post. Use the heal of your hand ( or my hand ) ensures that it's tight enough. You're correct, there should be no space between the valve seal face and the neck of the tank. If there is the "O" ring will fail eventually.
You bring up an excellent point however, as long as there is no gap between the the valve and tank neck all is good.
The heal of my hand is my torque wrench when putting valves on. Now installing safety assemblies into valves, I got an in-lb torque wrench on eBay for that job.
If you go the torque wrench route, you need a large crow foot to foot attachment to fit the valve and you'd ned to adjust the torque values accordingly.
You'd also be the only person I have ever seen use one in about 25 years of diving and working around dive shops and hydro test facilties.
Hand tight and a tap with the heal of the hand is the most common way I have seen it done - it ges it just beyond hand tight and your hand will get hurt before the valve.
As stated above as long as the o-ring is fully captured by metal to metal contact, the pressure inside the tank will prevent anyone from loosening the valve under pressure without the aide of a large wrench.
You'd also be the only person I have ever seen use one in about 25 years of diving and working around dive shops and hydro test facilties.
Hand tight and a tap with the heal of the hand is the most common way I have seen it done - it ges it just beyond hand tight and your hand will get hurt before the valve.
As stated above as long as the o-ring is fully captured by metal to metal contact, the pressure inside the tank will prevent anyone from loosening the valve under pressure without the aide of a large wrench.
We've had three new Worthingtons from XS have o-rings split & extrude on initial fill after the time-honored "hand-tight + a bump" torque method. Replacing the o-rings with Viton (and again using the "hand tight + a bump") solved the problem. Now we're just junking the factory o-rings before the first fill.
Rick
Rick
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