Wire Terminal Sources... Don't crimp my style!

[CuzzA]

25+ years of ham radio. Crimped things always stop working at the worst time.

I use these for splicing everything.

The quality control on these, especially Chinese brands on Amazon are hit and miss. I've had some where the solder melting point was lower than the heat shrink and some where it was not. One trick if you get a bad batch is to carefully massage the solder with a pair of needle nose pliers to try and make it more flexible before heating.

 

[CuzzA]

I will take a good crimp for most everything. Solder is for circuit boards, and a few special repairs.
Once you get a good set of wire crimpers it will change things. Most people hate crimps because they use horrible crimpers that result in bad crimps that fail.
How bored to you want to get learning about crimps? Common wire-to-board, wire-to-wire connectors, and crimp tools – Matt's Tech Pages

I agree with the quality crimpers makes all the difference, but also important is theres two different types, one designed for standard connectors one for heat shrink. Many people don't realize there's two different types and they'll use standard crimper on heatshrink connectors and punch a hole in the heatshrink,, completely ruining the waterproofing.

Way to technical of a video though f you're just trying to wire something like a boat, landscape or anything else without highly sensitive electronics. It would take you 4x as long with their methods, especially regarding insulation removal.

 

[The Chairman]

I would suggest getting Thomas & Betts spade connectors

Those are barrel connectors and I have plenty. I even have the correct crimper for them. I agree that I would never ever crimp with any sort of protector on. I cut 'em off.

But nothing equals an open U style terminal in terms of strength, reliability, and beauty. It's one reason why I use clear heat shrink to show off my skills.
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[The Chairman]

It would take you 4x as long with their methods, especially regarding insulation removal.

Think how much time would be saved by not having to find that one bad crimp? I first learned to crimp back in '74 when I worked in a shop that converted 6V positive earth to 12V negative ground. Boss would reach in, grab my wires and give a good pull. Then I worked in a chemistry lab where I had to crimp small stuff. NASA engineer taught me a lot and I went from barrels to double Bs.

I did a lot of non-insulated barrels for automotive, but when I rewired a boat in the Keys, I was reintroduced to the open U or double Bs. I just never found them in butt connectors. Now I've done a lot of small crimps for my 3D printers and happened on the untinned version. Tinning reduces verdigris, so I would rather pay more now, than have to hunt down a faulty terminal later.

I wonder if there's a way to easily tin crimps?

 

[lowviz]

nothing equals an open U style terminal in terms of strength, reliability, and beauty.

I'm not so sure. A properly made barrel connector is best in my world. See pic. (does not show soldering or heat shrinking)

Are the open U connectors that you use made of phosphor bronze?

 

[Wookie]

Think how much time would be saved by not having to find that one bad crimp? I first learned to crimp back in '74 when I worked in a shop that converted 6V positive earth to 12V negative ground. Boss would reach in, grab my wires and give a good pull. Then I worked in a chemistry lab where I had to crimp small stuff. NASA engineer taught me a lot and I went from barrels to double Bs.

I did a lot of non-insulated barrels for automotive, but when I rewired a boat in the Keys, I was reintroduced to the open U or double Bs. I just never found them in butt connectors. Now I've done a lot of small crimps for my 3D printers and happened on the untinned version. Tinning reduces verdigris, so I would rather pay more now, than have to hunt down a faulty terminal later.

I wonder if there's a way to easily tin crimps?

Of course.

Melt your solder in a crucible.

Heat your crimp with a propane torch

Dip the hot crimp into the hot solder.

Do you use tinned wire as well? It's not really worth your time to find tinned connectors on copper wire.

 

[The Chairman]

Are the open U connectors that you use made of phosphor bronze?

They can be, but it's not essential. The compression is over a wider area of the wires, and the additional crimp on the insulator provides stability reducing vibration and pulling on the wire portion of the crimp.

 

[lowviz]

The compression is over a wider area of the wires, and the additional crimp on the insulator provides stability reducing vibration and pulling on the wire portion of the crimp.

Got it. I think that the issue is that your world is 20 gauge wire and thinner, I too would use Molex type connectors in that range. I'll use barrel connectors for 14 gauge and larger wire until something better comes along.

 

[The Chairman]

Do you use tinned wire as well?

Indeed I do. However, there is a ton playing process that uses electrolysis. I don't need to do it now but... if like to still know how.

 

[The Chairman]

I'll use barrel connectors for 14 gauge and larger wire until something better comes along.

Crimping for 3D printers is the exception, not the rule. I mostly crimp 18-14 ga wire for 12V & 24V systems. I order 5 pin automotive relays and sockets 6 at a time because I'm always adding something. I'm looking for a non-pigtailed flat fuse holder. I used my last one and can't remember where I got them from.

I hate it when a project comes up and I have to wait on little crap to finish it.