Wire Terminal Sources... Don't crimp my style!

[The Chairman]

OK, I spend way too much time & effort getting the right crimp. I've used more than my share of barrell connectors, but I really prefer the Open U style that crimps not only the wire, but the insulator as well. I got some non-tinned ones from Amazon, but I really can't find these anywhere that are tinned. Help? As an aside, I cover them with glue lined heat shrink tubing to keep things pristine. Now that I'm here, I would also like to find tinned fork spade connectors in this open U style. I have Female 1/4" spade as well as Various ring connectors in that style.

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[Wookie]

500x Uninsulated 0.5-1.5mm² Electrical Wire Crimp Connector Tinned Butt Terminal | eBay

• Material: Tinned Brass. • Wire square: 0.5-1.5 mm². 70pcs Micro2 Fuse Blade 5A 7.5A 10A 15A 20A 25A 30A Micro2 Fuse Kit + 1 puller. Waterproof Male/Female 2/3/4/5/6-Pin Way Seal Car Electrical Wire Connector Plug.

www.ebay.com

 

[The Chairman]

And the Wooks for the win!!! He had a lot of terminals, but no forks in an open U style!

 

[CuzzA]

If there's risk of pullout I'd just go with a Western Union Splice, solder and heat shrink. No crimp needed.

 

[greeniguana]

25+ years of ham radio. Crimped things always stop working at the worst time.

I use these for splicing everything.

 

[The Chairman]

Solder solid, and crimp stranded has always worked for me. Solder stops stranded wire from being flexible which is why stranded was used in the first place. Stick with tinned (marine grade) wire and terminals, use the right tool and never, ever use crimps with nylon protectors.

 

[The Chairman]

FWIW, sometimes you do have to solder stranded. I replaced the horn in my Ford Edge and had to solder into the old horn connector. It's not going to fail either.

 

[Boarderguy]

While I prefer to not solder wires that have had a contact crimped on, it is sometimes unavoidable. Soldering stranded wire is fine. It gives a little strength to the crimp/wire junction and allows the flex to be in the shielding. You should never solder then crimp. Always crimp then solder. That way the strands are not pressed/pulled by the solder. FWIW I'm an aviation electronics tech and do this stuff daily.

 

[broncobowsher]

I will take a good crimp for most everything. Solder is for circuit boards, and a few special repairs.
Once you get a good set of wire crimpers it will change things. Most people hate crimps because they use horrible crimpers that result in bad crimps that fail.
How bored to you want to get learning about crimps? Common wire-to-board, wire-to-wire connectors, and crimp tools – Matt's Tech Pages

 

[lowviz]

I would also like to find tinned fork spade connectors in this open U style.

Newark Electronics has everything. (https://www.newark.com/w/c/connectors/crimp-terminals-solder-terminals-splices/spade-crimp-terminals?st=connectors spade&gs=true) Your double-crimp connectors look like Molex products.

I would suggest getting Thomas & Betts spade connectors and use a heatgun to remove their insulator before crimping, soldering, and sheathing with 3:1 adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. I have done this often in the past...