Which service kit for R109?

[redacted]

A quick question; is there only one size of spring in the 109? I took one apart today that was paired with a two LP port MK5, and the spring seemed a little longer than the other unbalanced springs I've seen in other 109s. The poppet was a different style; no "legs" on the spring side, just a flat end. I put a G200 kit in it. Whoever "rebuilt" it last time (maybe 20 years ago) put a cotter pin in place of the D clamp that holds the adjuster in. What are my chances finding one of those clamps (or the right spring if I need it) here on Roatan?

Regarding the D series, I'm going to stock up on poppets and a few extra diaphragm/exhaust valves. The day after I arrived on the island, my D300 is breathing pretty wet when upside down and I'm sure it's the seal between the exhaust valve and the diaphragm. AWAP, maybe it's time you convinced your wife you need to make an emergency parts delivery to Roatan.

I'll bet the cotter pin worked. Those clips are pretty easy to fabricate if you can find the correct diameter brass stock. Let me know if you need the spring. I should be able to pull one from a 109 I'm not using. I'll bet someone tried to assemble it without the spring pad.

My wife is giving me a hard time about another FGB trip so I'm pretty sure Roatan is out of the question.

 

[Luis H]

They did use a SS cotter pins for a short period in the early 70’s. I actually liked the cotter pin a lot better that the rolled pin, but they didn’t look as neat.

There was also a couple of different springs in the very early days, maybe more. The first one that I recall had the same distance between all coils. Later they introduced a spring were the coils near the end were closer together than the coils in the middle.

The old poppet that I recall the most had kind of an hexagonal shape and the spring just pushed on the back…no little tabs that stuck into the spring.

 

[oceancurrent]

All my R109-s are with D-pins, poppets with "+" cross-section, and flat spring pads. I guess I am quite lucky in this department.

The diaphragm covers are all in great shape, except one, which has severe dry rot and is falling apart. I guess, after all, the diaphragm covers can dry out after some time. I wonder, is there any way to prolong their life span and stop the dry rot process? Is keeping them in zip lock bags in the fridge the best preservation technique?

Also two of the covers I have are of the tall purge ring kind. I kind of like the ones with the flatter purge, so I am thinking of filing the tall ones at some point. Do you guys see any problem with that? I don't imagine that such a "plastic surgery" will have any effect on the regs?

 

[DA Aquamaster]

The early purge covers used a small rounded lip. The later ones (late 70's to mid 80's) use a much more pointed design with a raised lip about 1/4" high. The latest ones have used a narrow flat lip in a couple minor variations.

SP still has the purge covers in stock so I'd go that route before trimming an older vintage one in good condition.

90% of the time the dry rot is on the edges where it is compressed between the cover and the case. Storing it without having it clamped in the reg will pretty much eliminate deterioration during storage. Otherwise, storing the second stage in a zip lock bag will greatly reduce ozone exposure and prevent the degradation of any rubber under tension or compression.

 

[redacted]

I thought the high lip was the oldest version - probably because they gave me the most performance problems. On a bungeed octo they often bumped and burped. And they seemed to be prone to freeflow induced by current and surge. I've got no style so I just trimmed them down with a scissors and they work find.

I'm wondering if a coat or two of neoprene cement would restore and preserve a dry rotted cover (or exhaust-T). I have one on a 108 that may be worth a try.

 

[Richard Paul Halstead]

I'm thinking of making some parts for the D series regs so I can replace the soft seat by flipping it. As far as SP, it's to bad but they remind me of the American Car company's. You don't take advantage of your customers or you will lose them. I've already started everything I can so I don't need them for anything. They are pretty bad, I think they think like John Edwards and most politicians. You owe them something. I can't get them to upgrade my 2 MK20's with out wanting $150 each. I don't see free in that. I guess my next move with them is to involve a lawyer. Maybe I'll rock there world. They do need a rude awaking. At least that's what I have seen in the little time I have been Scuba diving.
Anyway what is the best way to attach the soft seat to plastic or brass? Contact cement or neoprene cement?

 

[redacted]

I can't get them to upgrade my 2 MK20's with out wanting $150 each. I don't see free in that. I guess my next move with them is to involve a lawyer. Maybe I'll rock there world. They do need a rude awaking. At least that's what I have seen in the little time I have been Scuba diving.
Anyway what is the best way to attach the soft seat to plastic or brass? Contact cement or neoprene cement?

With the hockey puck seats like a 109, Air2, or R-series, I just set the seat in the recess of the poppet and it will stay without adhesive.

What Mk20 upgrade(s) are you trying to get? The yoke nut or din retainer should be free. A new composite piston is probably $20 wholesale, $40 retail. And the exterior IP adjuster is unnecessary.

 

[owlbill]

What Mk20 upgrade(s) are you trying to get? The yoke nut or din retainer should be free. A new composite piston is probably $20 wholesale, $40 retail. And the exterior IP adjuster is unnecessary.

I am curious too. Any required upgrade would be free to original owner. An upgrade to MK25 is like upgrading my Malibu to a Corvette for example. I will have to pay for that.

 

[redacted]

I am curious too. Any required upgrade would be free to original owner. An upgrade to MK25 is like upgrading my Malibu to a Corvette for example. I will have to pay for that.

I suspect a price tag of $150 includes the labor charge for an annual service. When scubapro first tried to correct the problem with the Mk20 yoke nut, they called for the "free" upgrade of the yoke nut during the next annual service. Some shops continued that policy even after it turned into a proper CPSC recall. But they are independent shops who are free to do pretty much as they please including refusing to perform the free CPSC recall upgrade except as part of an annual service.

 

[Richard Paul Halstead]

The MK20 was cracking because of over thghting of the yoke nut or din. Some say it was something else. Anyway Scubapro did a volintary recall. It seem everyone wants to charge me $100 to $150 to do an anual on it and when I tell them I don't want them to do the anual they don't want to do anything. Eric at Scubapro at one point said he would have a local rep contact me right away. Well two months passed and then when I contacted him again he was going to send me a free shipping label right away. That was two weeks ago. What I need to next is to contact Consumer affiars and send them a certified letter as well as SP. That is where I'm at to date. What is sad here is SP is so out of touch with the common person they are going to lose there sales. The adhesive is for the D series regs. I can already refinish the soft seat for the poppet on the r 156 and the g 250. I can regrind the ring out of the seat with no problem. Works really nice only takes 10 to 20 seconds and it's just like new.