which LIGHT???

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vino21

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So I am in the market for a back up light which will be used first as a primary until I can afford a fancy canister one.
But I narrowed it down to:

Hollis LED 6 (350 Lumen) about 8" length or so.
or
Intova SL 1 (800 Lumen) about 10" length.

I already have a Light Monkey 3W LED about 8" length which I hook onto my right D-ring.

Thanks.
 
Between OP's choice, I would say Hollis LED6. SL1 is not only longer, but thicker in diameter, making it look like a huge light next to Hollis. It is hard to stow in harness or pocket.

Between Hollis ann DRIS, physically, they are 95% the same. Of course different LED, driver and reflector. I DRIS1000 and Hollis LED5, so it is like the 230LM verison of the 6. Hollis dive a tigher beam. DRIS give out overall more light, bigger hot spot but not necessary more intense higer intensity. If DRIS is really 1000 lumen, then Hollis's 230 is quite conservative. Both are good light, you won't regret
 
I own a DRIS 1000 but I have to wonder if it's really a suitable backup light.

One reason I wonder this is the twist on nature of the switch. That can be kind of touchy as you change pressure. You have to set it tight enough to not flood and yet back it off when the pressure changes and it comes on when you don't want it to. Then on ascent you have to tighten it back up to make sure it doesn't flood. Has anyone else had this problem?

The other issue is size. It's not exactly tiny.

I have the TrustFire TR-J1 and I think with it's magnetic switch and smaller footprint that it makes a better secondary. The price is equally awesome if not more so.

Then again, in the crud vis of Lake Travis I find that I tend to run with both lights turned on and in my hand. It gets me more light and if one fails the other is already deployed. I then change the batteries (rechargables) out on both between dives to get peak performance.
 
I own a DRIS 1000 but I have to wonder if it's really a suitable backup light.

One reason I wonder this is the twist on nature of the switch. That can be kind of touchy as you change pressure. You have to set it tight enough to not flood and yet back it off when the pressure changes and it comes on when you don't want it to. Then on ascent you have to tighten it back up to make sure it doesn't flood. Has anyone else had this problem?

The other issue is size. It's not exactly tiny.

I have the TrustFire TR-J1 and I think with it's magnetic switch and smaller footprint that it makes a better secondary. The price is equally awesome if not more so.

Then again, in the crud vis of Lake Travis I find that I tend to run with both lights turned on and in my hand. It gets me more light and if one fails the other is already deployed. I then change the batteries (rechargables) out on both between dives to get peak performance.

On the surface I turn the light on, then back it off about half a turn so it is off. my 130 ft dive on Saturday did not have any issues with unintended activation.
 
On the surface I turn the light on, then back it off about half a turn so it is off. my 130 ft dive on Saturday did not have any issues with unintended activation.

I don't back it off nearly that far. Fear I guess? I'm probably more of an 1/8 turn backoff. I guess the question I'm asking is, short of flooding and not flooding, how do you know how far is too far? Which is the greater risk? A magnetic switch that fails or a backup that is flooded?

For the record, I didn't say it wasn't a good backup, I just have some unanswered questions in my mind before declaring that it is.
 
ok so thank you all.
DRIS 1000 $89.99
or
Hollis LED6 $110
I will decide.
 
I'd check this out also:

TrustFire TR-J2 Diving 1000Lm CREE XM-L T6 LED Flashlight Torch Waterproof 50m | eBay

You'll find a thread on here of it's brother the TR-J1 which is similarly priced.

I bought it form Hong Kong for $45 and had no problems getting it delivered or in the 30 some dives I've taken it on. This newer model uses 2 batteries and a different driver. Very interested in seeing how people like it.
 

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