Which Apeks

[dennisgrimm]

Scubajay:
I feel that the DS4 is the best first stage because it eliminates the turret (one more failure point). In addition, I believe that the DST is a little more expensive. I also chose to get it with a DIN connection (bought my tanks at the same time) and yoke adaptors for when I go traveling. If you do get the yoke and not DIN you can always switch to DIN later (just buy the DIN conversion kit).

That is just my opinion. I think that the ATX200 is also an excellent reg, but not worth the $$$. If I had unlimited cash, I would get the ATX200. But, I am a student and try to get the most reg for my $$$$ (not really my $$$$, govt student loan ).

 

[scubajay]

Dinnisgrimm,

Thank you for your advice. What is the difference between

Drysealed, no turret
Drysealed with swivel turret
unsealed, no turret

and how can they effect the diving. Why is the turret considered a failure point.

 

[Kosh]

Dry sealed 1st stages keep internal components away from conminants in the water. And it's claimed they are better for cold water use (but that's a different argument - let's not open that can of worms!).

A moving part (the swivel turret) is considered a possible failure point. The DS4 1st stage (non-swivel) does not have this failure point. However, many people use (and like) the swivel on this first stage. I believe that all Apeks first stages that we have been talking about are dry sealed so the dry sealed vs. non-dry sealed isn't an issue.

IMHO, you just need to decide whether or not you want to spend ~$450 or ~$850 on a reg. I went with the ATX50 (with the swivel) and I've had no problems with it and have really enjoyed my reg.

HTH.

Daryl

scubajay once bubbled...
Dinnisgrimm,

Thank you for your advice. What is the difference between

Drysealed, no turret
Drysealed with swivel turret
unsealed, no turret

and how can they effect the diving. Why is the turret considered a failure point.

 

[mmcdds]

scubajay once bubbled...
Mostly my dives will be in the North East but I also go to the Carribean once or twice year. I would like a set up that I can use for both environment. I would like to have two set ups but right now my $$ does not stretch that far.

Scubajay,

You don't need two setups to dive in the NE and Carribean, any reg that you can use in cold water will be suitable for warm water, although the inverse to that won't necessarily be true. So if you're going to be diving in cold water, then get a reg that's environmentally sealed and you'll be fine in warm water too, since you are considering the Apeks ATX200 or ATX50, either will be fine.

You also asked about the difference between drysealed with and without the swivel turret and unsealed and the relative impact of each on diving. The drysealed regs don't allow water into the ambient chamber inside the first stage, so it makes it more difficult for the regs internal moving parts to freeze up when you're in cold water. If you happen to be diving in dirty water , a sealed first stage will also keep out the floating particulate matter that can gunk up the inside of your reg. An unsealed reg allows water into the ambient chamber in the first stage, thus making it more susceptible to freezing. The swivel turret on the DST first stage allows alittle play in the positioning of the LP hoses, however, my wife uses an Apeks ATX50(DST) and the little bit of play that you get from the swivel isn't really that significant, especially once you connect the LP inflator hose to your bcd, there really isn't that much room for movement anyway. As far as it being another point of failure, well,anytime you add another moving part and O ring, you add something else that has the potencial to break, but I've never had a problem with my wife's reg and I spoke to the tech at my LDS that services these regs, and he hasn't had to repair any DST's that actually failed at the turret, although if I had to do it over again, I'd buy my wife the DS4 (no turret) because its a little smaller.

Whichever you buy, you'll be happy, they're great regs.

Good luck

 

[scubajay]

Thanks Kosh and MMCDDS

I really learned alot from your comments. Thanks to everyone. I've decided to go with the DS4 / ATX50 and for the octo Im going with the ATX 40. If there isn't a big price difference I will go with the octo ATX 50.


Thanks again

If any of you are ever in the New York, New Jersey area and want to go diving, give me a hollar.


Jay

 

[IzzyTahil]

Yes definately get a regulator that will work in cold water and not the other way around. Warm water regs will have a tendency to freeflow in colder waters. e.g. my Mares V32 and Octo both freeflowed at exactly 46 degrees, I later found out that they have a cold water kit to convert for colder waters - an uneccessary expense!

btw checkout the DS4/atx50/atx40 combos at diveinn. good prices IMO.

this weekend we are diving at Dutch, youre welcome to join if you like.

 

[GoBlue!]

I was totally ready to splurge for the ATX200 & now this thread has me thinking, "Why not just get the DS4/ATX50/ATX40??" To those who have experienced both the ATX200 & DS4/ATX50, are they really that close in performance?

Jim

 

[RichLockyer]

GoBlue! once bubbled...
I was totally ready to splurge for the ATX200 & now this thread has me thinking, "Why not just get the DS4/ATX50/ATX40??" To those who have experienced both the ATX200 & DS4/ATX50, are they really that close in performance?

Can't speak to the ATX series from experience, but I currently have a TX100 1st with TX100 primary with a T20 (modified to TX50) backup.

I can't tell the difference between the two 2nds.

My buddy has a TX40/DST... again, TX40 modified to TX50.
Can't tell the difference compared to my 100.

Lastly, I have a UST/T20 (yet again, modified to TX50) on my stage.

Any guesses?

That's right.
Can't tell the difference compared to my 100.

The key factor is the cracking force adjustment. This allows the lever to be set so that the reg will blow into freeflow as soon as it SEES water, but yet you can crank it down so that Linda Lovelace would have a hard time getting air out of it.

The non adjustable T20/TX40 have to be a compromise for freeflow resistance vs easy breathing.

I run my primary cracking adjuster all the way open, generally run the venturi at "-" to combat drymouth.
I run my backup cracking adjuster all the way in with the venturi at "-".
If my buddy needs my primary, the backup is usable while he gets settled, then I can open up the adjuster on it.

 

[kavka]

I bought TX 100 and it costs just few euro more than TX50.
I got it for 300 EURO last month.

 

[scubahorse]

ATX50 is cheapper and will be good for most of diving places.