which 1st stage to keep

[eelnoraa]

Suddenly, I have a few 1st stages in my possession. If you were me, which two would you keep?

1. Atomic T2 (not T2x) 1st stage, serviced, yoke
2. Scubapro Mk10+ fully rebuilt, yoke
3. Scubapro Mk25, need service, yoke
4. Hollis DC2, serviced, din

What is the differences between MK10+ and MK25 besides the look? I was told they use the same internal party. How is the Atomic compare to these Scubapro? I have been using Hollis DC2 myself, has been satisfied with its performance. Should I switch at all?

 

[Fishpie]

The 1st 3 are all very similar.
Pick the one you like the look of the best.
The last one is a diaphragm, you have been using it with success, its DIN......a keeper.

My choice would be the MK25 and the Hollis.

 

[ECpirates96]

I would agree with Fishpie Hollis and SP Mk25.
You can use the SP MK25 and Mk10 for up to 100% O2 problem is with the MK10 if the piston gets damaged getting a replacement is tough. Sell the Atomic and the Mk10 and if you have no plans to use a stage in the future with higher O2 I would sale the Mk25.

If you are going with doubles the MK25 and Mk10 are great with hose routing. it really depends on you and your diving.

 

[halocline]

The MK10+ and the Mk25 are not the same internally, but similar. If the MK10+ does not creep (IP creep) in the slightest I'd keep it, but if it does I'd sell it. Replacement MK10+ pistons are usually available on ebay for about $40.

I'd sell the atomic and maybe the MK25 simply because they'd sell for more. You won't get hardly anything for the used hollis (a guess) and the DIN fitting alone is probably worth something. The atomic titanium should fetch a decent price on ebay.

OTOH, the MK10+ can be a bit finicky if the piston is not in pristine shape. (Thats why I mentioned the IP creep) I'd consider buying it if the price is right. If you want to keep the MK25 we could work servicing it into the deal if you'd like.

To answer your question about the difference between the MK10+ and MK25, the MK25 uses a bushing system to house the HP o-ring, which helps prevent wear on that crucial o-ring. It also has a larger piston and much higher flow rates. The flow rate does not affect "normal" diving, as both regs flow more than any 2nd stage or even a tank valve. My experience is that the MK25, properly serviced and cared for, will last a really long time between servicing.

I don't know much about the atomic, other than it's an evolution of the MK25 made from titanium, which makes it lighter, much more expensive, and more resistant to corrosion. If you care for your reg, corrosion won't be a problem. Titanium is also considered unsafe with higher concentrations of O2, to the point at which nitrox use with that reg might require special treatment.

 

[eelnoraa]

Thanks for the tips.

I will probably let the MK25 go. It requires a services, which will run me $40 (including parts) around where I live. And I am surprised at how many good offer I got from this even if it needs the services done, expecially compared to the much newer hollis.

The hollis, I don't quite understand why no love for this brand. It breaths well, barely 1 year old, flawless condition, but I hardly get any decent offers for it. I guess I will keep it for using with DIN tank.

 

[Downing]

If you're going to use nitrox with the Atomic T2, then you're supposed to either dedicate it to nitrox or have it cleaned before using it with air again. Not that I ever bothered, just sayin'.

Or you could upgrade it via a kit from Atomic into a T2x and no longer have to be concerned about dedication, which is what I did.

 

[AbyssalPlains]

What is the differences between MK10+ and MK25 besides the look?

OMG, that's like comparing a beetle to a Ferrari. The 10 is unbalanced, meaning more inhalation effort. Wouldn't use that for deep dives. BUT: It makes a great deco reg. It's also very simple and bulletproof from what I heard. The 25 is a high-end balanced piston super-breather.

I'd be interested in the Mk10 if you are selling it.

 

[HenrikBP]

OMG, that's like comparing a beetle to a Ferrari. The 10 is unbalanced, meaning more inhalation effort.

MK10 is balanced ... and IMHO compares quite nicely to the MK25. You may be thinking of the unbalanced MK2?

H

 

[halocline]

OMG, that's like comparing a beetle to a Ferrari. The 10 is unbalanced, meaning more inhalation effort. Wouldn't use that for deep dives. BUT: It makes a great deco reg. It's also very simple and bulletproof from what I heard. The 25 is a high-end balanced piston super-breather.

I'd be interested in the Mk10 if you are selling it.

The MK10 is balanced, and regardless, unbalanced does NOT mean more inhalation effort. Amazing how this bit of mis-information won't die.

BTW, this is a MK10+, which is a different animal than the MK10, in terms of the working parts. Higher flow (theoretically at least) and often more prone to creep. Probably the standard MK10 would be a better bet for a deco reg; it does have a better reputation for stable IP lock up. Personally, I'd use a MK2, which is unbalanced, has super stable IP lock up, and maybe is what you're thinking of anyway.

 

[tfsails]

I think I'd keep either the Mk 25 or the Atomic AND the Hollis. Hollis makes good regs--they're fairly new in the market, but come from the same ilk as Oceanic and Aeris. Besides, the Hollis is probably environmentally sealed which is good for cold water.

The T2 is also (probably--I've never seen one that wasnt...) environmentally sealed, which will cost you when you go to get it rebuilt. It's sealed with about 2 oz. of Christo-Lube which is very expensive.