Where do you get your photo's printed?

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are you people with printers using archival inks?

and how does that cost compared to outsourcing?

There are two types of ink, Dye which impregnates and "Dyes" the picture into the paper.... Subject to fade and bleaching picture good for 10 to 15 years depending on sunlight exposure! Pigment inks are the basic inks used Cavemen 35000 years ago and are still there! Epson uses Pigment inks that will last 200 years plus on the right paper! My 3800 has 10 ink cartridges and they run about 50 dollars each!

I also like digital displays like the picture frames! I thing it is a great way to show your photos! They do make Archival DVD's that are supposed to last 100 years, we will see!:wink:
 
The problem with sRGB files are they have less information in them! You should always print from a TIFF file for true color and max information in the non-compressed file! I have a number of my own Photo Printers including an Epson 3800.....! The "s" BTW stands for small as in small file!
A TIFF format file can be in any color space --- sRGB, AdobeRGB, etc.

A file in sRBG color space can be in any of several formats, such as jpeg, TIFF, etc.

Compression and color space are two separate, independent issues.

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My comments were directed to someone who is using drugstore printers.

Those systems expect a file in the sRGB color space. Using a colorspace other than sRGB will either force a colorspace conversion to be performed, or more likely will just result in incorrect mapping of colors. A colorspace conversion from Adobe RBG will reduce color resolution. If a colorspace conversion is not performed, a photo in Adobe RBG will appear washed out and unsaturated when printed on a printer expecting sRBG.

Using a printer profile (effectively a custom color space) that you have developed for your printer on a file sent to an outside printer may also cause problems.

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/sRGB-AdobeRGB1998.htm is an interesting comparison of sRGB and Adobe RGB 1998 color spaces. Particularly note the set of graphs that also shows what colors can be printed by a Fuji Frontier 390. Except for a tiny bit of yellow at high brightness, it is all within the sRBG colorspace. In other words, sRBG is very well suited for use with the common 1 hour printers.

It also shows the much broader pallete that can be printed by a Canon iP9900 on Photo Paper Pro. That exceeds sRBG in most areas, and also has some areas outside of Adobe RGB. IF using this printer, you could use this broader pallete by shooting in RAW and using a printer profile. Alternatively, you could use Adobe RGB color space and use most of the range with much less hassle.
 
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Could be...When I asked for "no corrections", most of them said that they usually don't make corrections anyway unless the customer asks for it or the lab person sees something seriously wrong with it. That's why I assumed that "corrections" meant someone looking at the screen and tweaking exposure, etc. By the way, if anyone wants some amusement, try taking a photo of the night sky (eg: star trails, etc.) and get it printed. Without exception, wherever I've gone, the print ended up an "average grey" colour instead of black with insane noise and stripes running through it. I always assume that this is from the software increasing the gain (amplifying the digital noise) because it sees the photo as "too dark".
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You may have gotten exactly what you asked for ".. asked them to print it just as it is without any tinkering." may have resulted in them turning off their correction and calibration settings.

They run periodic tests (daily at most drugstores) on their printers to calibrate them, but if you insist, they will indeed print your file without any of that "tinkering". Unfortunately, that "tinkering" is what keeps the output constant.

What happens if you just give them an sRGB file and let them process it normally?

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Some shops will do some "enhancement", such as increasing the dynamic range on washed out photos. If you include some white and some black right on the border, that should keep any enhancements from being applied to your photos. Most printers are set for about 2% overscan, so you can have a 1/8" border on a 4x6" photo and it will never appear.
 
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Those systems expect a file in the sRGB color space. Using a colorspace other than sRGB will either force a colorspace conversion to be performed, or more likely will just result in incorrect mapping of colors. A colorspace conversion from Adobe RBG will reduce color resolution. If a colorspace conversion is not performed, a photo in Adobe RBG will appear washed out and unsaturated when printed on a printer expecting sRBG.

I've always wondered about conversion of files at photo finishers. When I give them my 5-7 MB JPEGs, I suspect that the computer reduces the size to speed up the workflow (escpecially with 4x6 prints). Some insist that it doesn't (most have no idea), but usually when I get back wide-angle underwater prints (with alot of empty space in the background), this area is full of obvious noise that wasn't there before. I assume that this is from compressing the file to reduce the size. By the way, I never had this problem with photo finishers until about 5 years ago when they started getting those "self-serve" touch screen consoles (I don't know what they're really called). Even our local "professional" lab has the same one as Wal Mart now.
 
Depends on the model and the saturation in the picture.... If your doing underwater stuff the blue goes fast and yellow for the greens! I would say you could do an internet search for the model find a review that might give you close information on that!
 
I've always wondered about conversion of files at photo finishers. When I give them my 5-7 MB JPEGs, I suspect that the computer reduces the size to speed up the workflow (escpecially with 4x6 prints). Some insist that it doesn't (most have no idea), but usually when I get back wide-angle underwater prints (with alot of empty space in the background), this area is full of obvious noise that wasn't there before. I assume that this is from compressing the file to reduce the size. By the way, I never had this problem with photo finishers until about 5 years ago when they started getting those "self-serve" touch screen consoles (I don't know what they're really called). Even our local "professional" lab has the same one as Wal Mart now.
You can do some simple tests on the effect of compression by just using your image editor program to crank up jpeg style compression really high and see what happens. My experience is that what happens is a softening or loss of resolution, not the addition of noise. At very high compression there will also be some compression artifacts ("funny stuff") that shows up at sharp transitions like the edge of a wall in a topside photo or a mooring line or edge of a hull in an underwater photo.

Reducing file size by resampling down to fewer pixels has very different effect -- that of pixelation.

If you start doing heavy compression using GIF then you will start seeing things like color banding caused by having too few colors in the palette.

But I haven't seen compression cause noise to appear in empty space such as underwater background or the sky on a topside photo.

I have quite often had noise "show up" in prints. When I go back and look at the file at 200% or 400% zoom level, I find that the noise was always there, but just not apparent at the normal "fit in the window" zoom level. Nowdays, I often check for noise by looking at sky or open space at a high zoom level and apply noise filter as needed. (This is particularly a problem at high ISO settings.)

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I did another test just out of curiousity .... I resampled a bunch of photos to 1024 x 768 and printed them to compare with a Walgreens photo sent online using their "faster upload" (which is about a 5x compression) and uploading it full file size as if I were going to make a poster out of it.

The 1024x768 resolution photo looked OK and didn't have any pixellation, so they obviously did a good job of upsampling, but it was noticeably "fuzzier" or lower resolution that the other two photos.

On my first test like this, I lost track of which one had use the fast-upload and which one was full file size, so I repeated by adding labels to make two separate files. I couldn't really see any difference in the couple of photos I tested. I still upload full resolution since it just delays the upload a bit.
 
I just bought a (admittedly entry-level) Canon inkjet photo printer. Once I disable the "image optimization", "auto sharpening" "auto colour" and "vivid" settings, the prints look very close to what I see on my computer screen. When I turn on the "image optimization", I get prints that look like the ones I get from certain photo labs. They are full of banding and digital noise (mostly in dark or low-detail areas). Unfortuneatly, the prints are also covered in fine lines of a different colour. A printer head alignment and clean didn't get rid of the problem. I've heard that these lines are a common problem with inkjet printers. I might be back to trying my luck with walk-in photo labs. I looked up some marketing specs of Fuji Frontier and Noritsu labs and they all include:
Quote: "Fujifilm’s Image Intelligence technology. Image Intelligence automatically compensates for problematic conditions such as poor lighting, backlighting and high contrast, as well as over- or under- exposure"
And: "powerful image optimization and correction functions ensure the highest quality photo output".
I don't know if the labs can override this, but I doubt most employees would even know how to get into the software to do this.
 
The last ones I printed were on an HP-5000 on semi-gloss through the Caldera RIP. My 9 mega pixel was printing 34.5" x 26" @ 100dpi. That was really nice, uh... 'till I got laid off... (still I have some hanging in the living room) :eyebrow:
 

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