Almost two weeks have already rolled by since I came back from my last diving trip outside Whidbey Island. However, a concoction of earthly and watery flashbacks keeps pulling me back in time. It is not like traveling inside a time machine, though, as if I had some knowledge in such matter, but rather being nagged by an invisible double-self, who is whispering inside my ears fragmented chapters from an ancient tale. They are following me wherever I go.
On Friday morning, May 15, I consulted all the current and tides tables of the four corners of the Pacific Northwest until my head was clogged up with too many possibilities and a lot of indecision. So in order to accelerate the process of picking up a diving destination because the weekend was already on a fast moving pace, I patiently figured out what was my diving budget for the week-end and started looking for a diving location that did not require an expensive ferry ticket, endless hours of driving, had a campground and was not swept by troubling currents. Eventually I settled for an area of the Washington coast that I have read a lot about on Northwest Dive News magazine and visited in the past as a backpacker: Hood Canal in the Olympic Peninsula.
Of course I was too late to make a reservation to secure a spot on the ferry...My buddy agreed to take the risk of not being able to board at the Keystone ferry terminal. In haste we packed camping and scuba gear and whatever food we could find in the kitchen. Thankfully we got lucky and after waiting for only about an hour we were on our way to Port Townsend. After disembarking the ferry, we drove south on a two lane winding road where on one side the serene, blue and sparkling waters of Hood Canal were increasingly seducing us and on the other steep mountain slopes reminded us that in that area parking space close to shore was limited. In the early evening we reached our final destination: the campground of Mikes Beach Resort.
I t was the first time that we stayed at a cold water dive resort. The place was packed with divers. A lot of them were students from other states. At the reception we were immediately told that there was no electricity because a vehicle had rammed into a power pole on that same winding and narrow road, not far away from the resort. Workers from the power company frantically worked all evening and part of the night to restore the electricity. For us this unexpected surprise was not a nuisance but made our diving trip to the somewhat urbanized Hood Canal more adventurous.
When darkness inexorably fell over us and the other guests, the resort was dotted with beams of head and diving lights, as if flashlight fishes were swimming in dark air rather than water. A cozy campfire was burning on the beach. There was a nice wooden deck that jutted out into the canal. Before hitting the sack in my tent, which was located an eighth of a mile up the road, I walked to the end of the deck to gaze at the starry sky for a while. The stars seemed to be brighter without the interference of the resort artificial lights. The air was mild, not exactly tropical but pleasant enough. All of a sudden I felt like I was in Roatan on my first warm water diving vacation. More precisely on a West End deck where, before going to bed, I used to stare at the clear sky, free of mosquitoes because of the sea breeze, until I would see a shooting star, while other folks would tell each other the diving tales of the day over beer and rum cocktails in the nearby beach-bar. However, after a while, the increasing night chill brought me back to that Pacific Northwest shore and made me want to crawl inside my sleeping bag.
The following morning we decided to skip diving at Mikes Beach Resorts, where as campers we would have to pay an extra $ 10 a head diving fee, because after talking to some divers the previous day, we realized that we were not very interested in exploring an artificial reef, something that we do regularly at home. We were hoping to explore natural features such as a rock wall or boulder field. So instead of spending $ 10, we ended up spending $ 17 each to have the privilege to get what we wanted and park the car a reasonable distanced from a privately owned beach called Sund Rock.
When we unloaded the gear near the water after driving down a short steep hill, the place was crammed with divers like at Mikes. We planted ourselves there in the late morning determined to make the most of those $17. By the time we did two dives, had a picnic and took a nap, all the other divers were gone. By a magic spell we had the whole beach for ourselves and did a dusk-dive.
While we were busy diving, eating and basking in the sun, the menacing road was hovering above our heads on a rocky bluff crowned by tall trees. On one hand I was pleased to notice that it was somewhat hidden from view but on the other I kept looking up with a slight sense of uneasiness hoping that another wacky driver would not miss a curve slamming into one of those trees with unpredictable consequences. Small rocks were already falling from the unstable cliff at regular intervals. Thankfully none of that happened. Instead a bald eagle, chased by a crow, appeared in the sky and a harbor seal showed up on the surface of the water and checked us out.
The water looked sleepy and uncomplicated from shore. We did not have any idea what was waiting for us under the surface, though. When we were ready to begin our first dive, we surface-swam straight out for a while to get closer to a deep wall called Fish Pen and submerged into a liquid wall of small white jelly fish as if we were diving in a sea water lake in Palau rather than the Pacific Northwest. I had never seen so many jellies in my entire life! I was glad that from the tip of my toes, and beyond, to the tip of my hair I was encased inside a layer of plastic because later the bigger and fatter egg yolk jellies showed up as well in every corner of the shallows.
The wall was smooth, steep and rocky but also covered with several inches of fine silt so it looked like it was made of mud. When we reached a depth of 60 ft ghostly and flimsy shapes of sea whips began to reveal themselves in front of our masked eyes. Unlike the orange sea pen, the sea whip can grow to a length of 9 feet! Ours did not reach that impressive size but nevertheless their delicate white skinny appearance was truly charming for us who had never seen these colonial invertebrates before. We kept swimming down the slope under their supervision and reached a depth of 97 ft.
Our second dive took place at Sund Rock South Wall. We wanted to keep our depth to 60 ft but the visibility was worse than in the previous dive. In an attempt to escape it we kept swimming downward until we reached a threshold were clouds of silt? Plankton? (We could not figure out what it was exactly) that would separate from clearer water making us think that we were floating in the atmosphere of a gassy planet like Jupiter. We kept going down leaving those clouds behind immerging ourselves into a visibility of 20 ft and reached the depth of 88ft.
On the way back to the shallows the water was somewhat less turbid and Holy Moly! Look what is peering out from that hole between those boulders: the huge lumpy head of a mature male wolf eel with a white scar that runs from its forehead to its nose!
And look who is here, few feet below Scarfaces den! A couple of wolf eels! Did Scarface get his scar from fighting with this other male or a bullying homeless giant pacific octopus? Or simply scraped its skin onto the rocky walls of its home in the rush to safety because it was pursued by a predator or a pestering underwater photographer?
While my head was jammed with all those questions, a glimpse at my pressure gauge reminded me that it was time to end this second remarkable dive at Sund Rock. We swam back to the beach underwater taking care to dodge the jellies with a desire to further explore the underwater world of this corner of Hood Canal with a third dive.
By the time we were ready to hit the water at around 8 pm the weather had changed. A layer of thin clouds was obscuring the now fading blue sky from view, an insistent breeze picked up turning the sea surface choppy and small waves were breaking close to the lower parking lot because the tide was high.
Once in the water we headed north to visit the Fish Bowl and another wall. The jellies were not as dense as in the two previous dives but still we had to keep our eyes wide open to avoid the long tentacles of egg yolk and lions main jellies (the latter apparently already had bells three feet wide, according to some divers). This time we were able to stick to a depth of 60ft. After checking the wall in one direction we turned around and moved upward to a boulder field where juvenile copper rock fish were transfixed by our lights and the black eyes of black eye gobies were staring at us between the blades of kelp. Close to the edge of the Fish Bowl a messy pile of crab remains was laying on sand and broken shells. It looked suspicious. Behind it there was a narrow crevice, which I promptly checked out to find out whether I would be lucky to see a giant pacific octopus or not. And there it was!
After paying our respects to the sleepy cephalopod , we hung around at a depth of 30 ft until our air no longer allowed us to stay, then we swam back to the rocky entry thinking that the $ 17 diving fee, despite being pricy, was worth every cent. Next time, though, I may consider hiking to the water on the free public trail located further south from Sund Rock and endure a long surface swim. However, the real challenge will be to convince my buddy that making our diving life less comfortable can make us stronger and richer!
The next morning we drove to a different site not far away from Sund Rock: Octopus Hole. Once again we were blessed with luck because we found a parking spot in a section of the road that was conveniently wider where only five vehicles could barely fit in it. Freshly soaked divers told us about the octopi and wolf eel that inhabited the wall of Octopus Hole. We couldnt wait to get into the water. After plunging into another jelly soup we began to look for the wall but swam too deep and could not figure out where it was. We turned back and bumped into another three divers. We decided to follow them because they looked like they knew where the wall was.
I dont consider myself to be an expert in silt-free kicking; I havent mastered that art yet, but Man! Those fellow divers in front of us were churning that silt in such a way that we felt like we were swimming inside a blender full of chunky vegetable soup that had been switched on for a while! I looked at my buddy and signaled to him to swim head of them. So we did. We had enough time to scrutinize the biggest Lewiss Moon Snail that we had ever seen that the other divers caught up with us. Out of frustration we gave up on continuing exploring the wall. We let them pass, turned around and began to swim in the opposite direction.
I dont know what the other divers back on the beach were talking about when they had remarked that there were octopi and a wolf eel living in the wall of Octopus Hole! We did not see any, but spotted what looked like an abandoned octopus den. We ended up spending a lot of time in shallow water forgetting all about cephalopods and wolf eels. Gunnels were popping out from under every cobblestone and then cockscombs, poachers etc. and I managed to see a shy grunt sculpin tucked inside a shallow crevice. In the water column we encountered the weirdest comb-jelly like creature that we had ever seen. Its body had the shape of a cork screw and a long tail. It turned out that it was a Tailed Jelly, one of the longest free swimming marine animals to inhabit the ocean. It can reach the length of 120 feet!
We ended the dive amazed at how Nature seems to have an endless supply of surprises even when you think that you have experienced them all! Back to the tiny parking lot we packed the car one last time. We had to head back to Port Townsend and face the reality of not having a ferry reservation once more. In the end catching the ferry back home turned out to be no problem. As I was watching the waters of Admiralty Inlet sweeping by from the ferry, I reflected on how I would have never expected that a diving trip to Hood Canal would also have taken me to tropical diving destinations and even the surface of Jupiter!
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