IIRC, the NAUI materials state that with a completely empty BC, a full breath of air, and a full tank, you should float at the surface at eye-level. Personally, I haven't found that to be a very useful way to fine tune, although it should give an indication of being grossly overweight.
*Ideally*, if there's a training platform about 5m / 15ft down, that would be where you want to dial in your weight. You bring down extra weights, and it's convenient to have some twos and a three (to allow you to easily go up or down a pound at a time). Lie down on the platform and remove a weight. If you dont float up with a full breath, you're still too heavy -- set down another weight.
Once you're close, you can just hold a weight or two in your hands while you inhale and exhale deeply. You should slightly float up when you inhale a big, deep breath, and you should sink when you do a big exhale. Pick up and set down different weights until you find the point where you're neutral mid-breath and able to lift off with a bit more inhale and sink with a bit more exhale.
Once you're at this neutral point, you're *mostly* done. I'm assuming you're using a good old "normal" Aluminum-80. Take a look at your SPG. If it's at 500psi, you're set -- the weight you have is the weight you need. If you've got more than 500psi, add one pound for each 500psi: For 1000psi, add 1 pound. For 1500psi, add two pounds. 3 pounds for 2000psi, 4 pounds for 2500psi, and 5 pounds for 3000psi. Now, write down the final weight, along with the suit you're wearing and the tank you're using. You're dialed in.
You'll need to repeat this procedure for each different suit you use. If you dive different tanks, on the other hand, you can look up the buoyancy changes from one to another and just add or subtract as necessary.
If you're changing from fresh to salt (or vice versa), you can easily do that, *BUT* you need one more piece of information. With everything dry, put on everything you had on when you dialed in your weight, including your tank (you can hold some of it, too, if that's easier). Now step on a scale and get your total dry weight. To go from freshwater quarry weighting to saltwater weighting, multiply this total dry weight by 0.025 (i.e. 2.5%). That is how much weight you need to add to be neutral in saltwater with this same set of gear. To go from saltwater weighting to fresh water, take your total dry weight in that set of gear and multiply by 0.025 and remove that much weight.
(The thing to remember about going fresh to salt or salt to fresh is that the 2.5% change must be done with "absolute weight", i.e. your weight belt weight plus everything else that is you and your gear, not the "relative weight" of just your weight belt, just like the gas laws require absolute pressure and absolute temperature.)
(Since I typed this, I figured I might as well second Charlie99, and maybe some of it's lagniappe.
)
*Ideally*, if there's a training platform about 5m / 15ft down, that would be where you want to dial in your weight. You bring down extra weights, and it's convenient to have some twos and a three (to allow you to easily go up or down a pound at a time). Lie down on the platform and remove a weight. If you dont float up with a full breath, you're still too heavy -- set down another weight.
Once you're close, you can just hold a weight or two in your hands while you inhale and exhale deeply. You should slightly float up when you inhale a big, deep breath, and you should sink when you do a big exhale. Pick up and set down different weights until you find the point where you're neutral mid-breath and able to lift off with a bit more inhale and sink with a bit more exhale.
Once you're at this neutral point, you're *mostly* done. I'm assuming you're using a good old "normal" Aluminum-80. Take a look at your SPG. If it's at 500psi, you're set -- the weight you have is the weight you need. If you've got more than 500psi, add one pound for each 500psi: For 1000psi, add 1 pound. For 1500psi, add two pounds. 3 pounds for 2000psi, 4 pounds for 2500psi, and 5 pounds for 3000psi. Now, write down the final weight, along with the suit you're wearing and the tank you're using. You're dialed in.
You'll need to repeat this procedure for each different suit you use. If you dive different tanks, on the other hand, you can look up the buoyancy changes from one to another and just add or subtract as necessary.
If you're changing from fresh to salt (or vice versa), you can easily do that, *BUT* you need one more piece of information. With everything dry, put on everything you had on when you dialed in your weight, including your tank (you can hold some of it, too, if that's easier). Now step on a scale and get your total dry weight. To go from freshwater quarry weighting to saltwater weighting, multiply this total dry weight by 0.025 (i.e. 2.5%). That is how much weight you need to add to be neutral in saltwater with this same set of gear. To go from saltwater weighting to fresh water, take your total dry weight in that set of gear and multiply by 0.025 and remove that much weight.
(The thing to remember about going fresh to salt or salt to fresh is that the 2.5% change must be done with "absolute weight", i.e. your weight belt weight plus everything else that is you and your gear, not the "relative weight" of just your weight belt, just like the gas laws require absolute pressure and absolute temperature.)
(Since I typed this, I figured I might as well second Charlie99, and maybe some of it's lagniappe.
