What white balance setting to use for underwater?

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pma

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Just a quick question to ask what white balance people use on compact cameras when they are taking underwater photos.

I did read somewhere to use day light at or near the surface, and then cloudy lower down, which I have done with some success, but I didn't know if anyone has tried anything else that got rid of the blue tint more?

My camera.
Canon S30.
Possible settings
day light
cloudy
tungsten
fluorescent
fluorescent H - whatever that is
flash
evaluate.

Any thoughts?

Peter
 
Does "evaluate" mode mean "manual white balance" or "calibration". If so, then you should be able to calibrate against your dive slate at depth and that will balance out your colours.

pma:
Just a quick question to ask what white balance people use on compact cameras when they are taking underwater photos.

I did read somewhere to use day light at or near the surface, and then cloudy lower down, which I have done with some success, but I didn't know if anyone has tried anything else that got rid of the blue tint more?

My camera.
Canon S30.
Possible settings
day light
cloudy
tungsten
fluorescent
fluorescent H - whatever that is
flash
evaluate.

Any thoughts?

Peter
 
I've tried all the WB settings on my Oly and noticed very little difference in any of them for underwater use. I just leave it on AUTO for shots using a strobe or internal flash.

For no-flash shots, I prefer to use manual WB and calibrate it myself.
 
Evaluate is calibrate it yourself

The one that I don't set it to is auto, as that means that the camera has to take more time to evaluate the picture before the shutter release, thus delaying the time between you pressing the button and the picture actually being taken, which can sometimes be too long as it is.

I haven't tried calibrating it myself before, The main problem that I can see with this is that it would take more time as you move around, and as the dives I will be taking on holiday will be escorted I tend to hold them back enough as it is.

I might give it a go if I get the chance.

Peter
 
The biggest problem with manual white balance is it needs to be recalibrated very often, especially when changing depths by more than 10ft. or so. Changes in ambient light also effect it, ie. the sun goes behind clouds, the reef comes between you/ your subject and the sun, etc. If you're going to be at a consistant depth, this isn't so much of a problem. But in a group situation, trying to keep up with the group, calibrating takes a few minutes and it's tough.

I've never noticed an appreciable difference in the time involved to focus. I'm not in a race so focus and write times just aren't a concern to me.
 
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