Question Ikelite set-up - Sony A7 IV - Opportunity

[Thibaut27]

Hi folks,

I've managed to secure a potential deal to acquire a nearly complete Ikelite set-up for a Sony A7IV for 2,800 EUR. This set up would require that I send back my newly purchased Sony A7C II for the Sony A7IV but it's only a 300 EUR delta whilst potentially saving up 3,000-3,500 EUR on the Ikelite set up.

Deal is the following piece of gear for 2,800 EUR. Would love to get confirmation that it's worth it for that price from folks that have already bought used gear and if so, I am meeting the seller on Saturday so would love any tips of what needs to be checked out when buying one of these set ups as used. Will be hard to test waterproofing remains efficient as we'll meet at the airport (I intend to ask for a video beforehand).

Finally it appears to me that the only missing piece for me to add will be flashes - any tips as to how to complete this set up? Will be my first set up, but seems to me like a good one to evolve into. Looking to do both video and photos, would love recommendations on which strobe to go for.

1 x 200DL Underwater Housing for Sony A7IV and A7RV Mirrorless Digital Cameras - 71479
1 x Right handle - 4077.02
1 x Flat Port - 75301
1 x DL 20mm Port Extension - 75020
1 x DL 42mm Port Extension - 75042
1 x TTL Converter SONY DSLR (ST1+B1A) - 46045
1 x Manual flash grip - 46071
2 x Wide Angle Ball Arm - 4080.06
1 x pump - 47011
1 x Joint for housing Ikelite compact - 0132.45
1 x Joint 013259 pour back of housing - 0132.59
1 x Trigger Extension Ikelite V2 - 4077.95
1 x Dome 8'' DL - 75340
1 x TTL cable - 45151
1 x Synchronisation cable for double Ikelite flash - 45152
4 x O-RING F/BATTERY DOOR F/DS-125 - 0132.36
3 x IKELITE VIDEO O-RING (CLR MOLDED ALUM FRNT) - IK0132.59
1 x IKELITE THUMB SCREWS FOR DL PORTS (SET OF 3 - IK9249.7)
5 x IKELITE O-RING F/ULTRA COMPCT DIGI CAMERA H - IK0132.45
2 x IKELITE O-RING F/SPD - IK0136.13
1 x IKELITE O RING KIT FOR PUSH BUTTONS - IK620103
1 x IKELITE UPDATE KIT SONY A7R V - IKUKSAR7V

 

[TostitoBandito]

That looks to be basically an entire kit, with the exception of strobes as you mentioned and also possibly a port extension or two depending on your lens choices. Price seems fine, though not necessarily great for a second-hand housing. The useful big ticket items in there are the housing, port extensions, ports, sync cords, and TTL converter, totaling probably somewhere around 3500-4000 Euro MSRP new. Plus another 500-1000 Euro worth of spares and accessories that you may or may not care about. I'm personally not a fan of Ikelite's arms/clamps and much prefer ULCS.

You should look for corrosion/discoloration on the metal buttons which can indicate lack of rinsing/maintenance, and test every button and dial to make sure it moves smoothly. O-rings can be cheaply replaced, so focus on looking for any damage in the plastics of the housing or ports. Make sure the dome doesn't have a bunch of scratches in it. Take a camera with you and test the sync cords and TTL converter with an Ikelite strobe if possible. As for waterproofing and whatnot, I'd advise you to send the main housing to Ikelite for them to do a routine service on after you get it regardless of what it looks like. They'll replace any button o-rings or other wear items that need attention, and test everything. Then when you get it back they'll tell you to dive it without a camera once just to make sure, which you can choose whether or not to do.

If you get this, you're more or less committed to getting Ikelite strobes unless you want to spend more to buy fiber optic converters/bulkheads. In the Ikelite range I'd suggest looking at the DS165, DS230, or DS232 depending on your budget and needs. If you want to shoot a lot of video you'll probably also need a separate set of video lights unless you get a strobe with a video light like the DS232 and 2500 lumens is enough for you. I'd personally suggest focusing on either stills or video and setting up for that accordingly, instead of trying to do both and having to make a bunch of compromises or end up with a massive rig with multiple sets of lights.

 

[Wobbegong_th]

The list you'd provided seems completed, with some spare parts that you might not need at the moment.
Apart from the strobes, you'd need to check which lens(es) you'll be using with this system.
Check your lens against Ikelite DL Port chart to see if you'll need any zoom gear. Ikelite DL Port chart can be found here.

Apart from what @TostitoBandito wrote above, check the O-ring and port parts if there's any scratch that might lead to leakage. If possible, attached the port parts to the housing, close the housing and tried the vacuum pump. Typically I'd pull vacuum to about 10 bar, disconnect the pump, close the housing valve. Then leave it for about 10-15 minutes before connect the pump again and check if there's drop in vacuum. (That might indicate a leak)
You'll need the camera, any sony camera should do, and Ikelite strobe to test TTL function of the TTL convertor & cable though. Ask the seller if he has any Ikelite DS strobe that you can borrow to test. If you can test, connect the camera hotshoe to housing hotshoe, Then TTL convertor to housing bulkhead and cable from TTL convertor to strobe. Set your camera on Manual and take photo, one with the strobe point back to the lens, another with strobe point away from the lens. First one should have a short burst of light from strobe with low brightness, second should have longer burst with brighter light. if both are correct, TTL system work.

For strobe, this system is setup to use with Ikelite TTL Strobe. If you want to use other brand fiber-optic trigger strobe you'll need to replace the bulkhead with Ikelite Fiber Optic Transmitter that would only manually trigger the strobe.
If you're going to do both Photo & Video, There are several way:
- 1 or 2 of Ikeltie combined Photo-Video strobe& light : DS-232 is the current model that has both strobe and video light in one package.
- 1 Ikelite strobe and 1 video light. recommend DS-165 or Ecko DS for strobe, and some other brand video light. Set them up on different side and use single cable for the strobe.
- replace the strobe bulkhead with the fiberoptic transmitter. and use other brand of stobe that trigger by fiberoptic.
- Forget strobe, use only video light on both side. work ok for close range photo. look for video light of at least 2500 lumens

 

[Thibaut27]

The list you'd provided seems completed, with some spare parts that you might not need at the moment.
Apart from the strobes, you'd need to check which lens(es) you'll be using with this system.
Check your lens against Ikelite DL Port chart to see if you'll need any zoom gear. Ikelite DL Port chart can be found here.

Apart from what @TostitoBandito wrote above, check the O-ring and port parts if there's any scratch that might lead to leakage. If possible, attached the port parts to the housing, close the housing and tried the vacuum pump. Typically I'd pull vacuum to about 10 bar, disconnect the pump, close the housing valve. Then leave it for about 10-15 minutes before connect the pump again and check if there's drop in vacuum. (That might indicate a leak)
You'll need the camera, any sony camera should do, and Ikelite strobe to test TTL function of the TTL convertor & cable though. Ask the seller if he has any Ikelite DS strobe that you can borrow to test. If you can test, connect the camera hotshoe to housing hotshoe, Then TTL convertor to housing bulkhead and cable from TTL convertor to strobe. Set your camera on Manual and take photo, one with the strobe point back to the lens, another with strobe point away from the lens. First one should have a short burst of light from strobe with low brightness, second should have longer burst with brighter light. if both are correct, TTL system work.

For strobe, this system is setup to use with Ikelite TTL Strobe. If you want to use other brand fiber-optic trigger strobe you'll need to replace the bulkhead with Ikelite Fiber Optic Transmitter that would only manually trigger the strobe.
If you're going to do both Photo & Video, There are several way:
- 1 or 2 of Ikeltie combined Photo-Video strobe& light : DS-232 is the current model that has both strobe and video light in one package.
- 1 Ikelite strobe and 1 video light. recommend DS-165 or Ecko DS for strobe, and some other brand video light. Set them up on different side and use single cable for the strobe.
- replace the strobe bulkhead with the fiberoptic transmitter. and use other brand of stobe that trigger by fiberoptic.
- Forget strobe, use only video light on both side. work ok for close range photo. look for video light of at least 2500 lumens

Thanks, that's really helpful. I've gone ahead and bought the system yesterday. Everything checked out and he included spares of everything in the pack - from o-rings to replacement buttons.

Was really hoping to make it into a flexible system to do both videos and photos, but seems like you have to build your system for either one and the other will be sub-optimized.

If you intend to take a picture of large 'fish' (i.e. sharks, napoleons, etc...) at what distance does a flash / video light become useless? I was thinking of going for the dual set up you mentionned of 1 Ikelite strobe + 1 video light, would that entail having the light on all the time ?

What are the draw backs of just sticking two strong video lights at 5000 lumen ? The DS232 is quite price and also offers only 2500 lumens for video which I find a bit low.

 

[Wobbegong_th]

Thanks, that's really helpful. I've gone ahead and bought the system yesterday. Everything checked out and he included spares of everything in the pack - from o-rings to replacement buttons.

Was really hoping to make it into a flexible system to do both videos and photos, but seems like you have to build your system for either one and the other will be sub-optimized.

If you intend to take a picture of large 'fish' (i.e. sharks, napoleons, etc...) at what distance does a flash / video light become useless? I was thinking of going for the dual set up you mentionned of 1 Ikelite strobe + 1 video light, would that entail having the light on all the time ?

What are the draw backs of just sticking two strong video lights at 5000 lumen ? The DS232 is quite price and also offers only 2500 lumens for video which I find a bit low.

Beyond 2m/6ft, most strobe/video light would be 'fainted'. Some large/strong strobe/video light might be able to lit up background as far as 5m, but those would be very pricey.

I'm more of a 'photo-centric' person. mostly I'd shoot still. I'm using older 2 Ikelite strobes, DS-162 and DS-161. So can't really comment on having video light. On my setup, both strobe has 'Focus light' function, which I have on at all time. They are not as strong as video light but good help with focusing. One charge lasted about 3 dives.
A friend of mine use video light, he has all his light on at all time, but turn down the power when not in use.
Some really strong video light might have certain effect on marine life. Some coral would close their polyps in strong light. Once I had a friend, the one mentioned earlier, approach me from behind with his lights on full power. I felt warmth from his light on my back. a drawback may be you'll need to charge your light quite often if you left them on full power all the time.

 

[TostitoBandito]

Was really hoping to make it into a flexible system to do both videos and photos, but seems like you have to build your system for either one and the other will be sub-optimized.

If you intend to take a picture of large 'fish' (i.e. sharks, napoleons, etc...) at what distance does a flash / video light become useless? I was thinking of going for the dual set up you mentionned of 1 Ikelite strobe + 1 video light, would that entail having the light on all the time ?

What are the draw backs of just sticking two strong video lights at 5000 lumen ? The DS232 is quite price and also offers only 2500 lumens for video which I find a bit low.

Any decently powerful strobes like the DS165 or better will throw adequate light on large subjects through clear water up to 8-10 feet or more, depending on settings and conditions. For stills at least. I wouldn't recommend going diving with one strobe and one video light on all the time. You typically want video lights off when shooting stills (some can do this automatically) and while a single strobe is fine for macro you'll be compromised shooting larger subjects and wide angle.

The drawback of getting a pair of 5-10K lumen video lights is that you're not going to get great stills for the most part. You'll have a video setup.

In my mind the options are to either commit fully to either strobes or video lights, or get both but only run one or the other on a given dive. You're gonna drive yourself nuts trying to equip and manage both on one dive. For a more cost effective approach you could do something like get a single DS165 or similar strobe, and then a pair of video lights. Then you could do still photo dives for macro and some limited wide angle subjects with the strobe, or do video dives with your lights.

It's also worth mentioning again that you can often get quite good video results using only available light, as long as you're not super deep and there's good visibility (and you have the ability to post-process it). This is what I do as I primarily shoot stills. Sometimes when I'm setup for macro I'll also strap a gopro to the top of my camera rig so I can get video of big stuff if it happens to swim by.

 

[Thibaut27]

Naive question but if you want to do a wide angle reef picture at 20-25m for exemple, given the 8-10ft limitation on flash photography, what would be the best set-up in this instance ? Trying to understand if there are just situations where you can't get back colours for wide angle shots at some distance.

Think I'll work towards a still specialized lighting set up and can always re-explore video at a later stage.

Any recommendations on lightroom / editing courses out there specialized in UW photos / videos?

 

[grantmac]

You can white balance at depth to get the background color better but ultimately you're only going to get true colors where your strobes hit and they will have far more power than anything except the brightest video lights.
Macro you can video with just a focus light but getting any further away needs power.
Wide lenses let you get close enough to use your strobes but capture a lot in the frame.

 

[Thibaut27]

You can white balance at depth to get the background color better but ultimately you're only going to get true colors where your strobes hit and they will have far more power than anything except the brightest video lights.
Macro you can video with just a focus light but getting any further away needs power.
Wide lenses let you get close enough to use your strobes but capture a lot in the frame.

Thank you !