What to look for when buying tanks

[poomero]

Hey everyone,

i am looking in to getting some used tanks and I was wondering what I should be looking out for. If the stickers are out of date should I not bother or does this matter. Should the tanks be filled with air if stored for a long time without use. What things should I keep an eye out for and what are deal breakers? Any info is greatly appreciated.

 

[bamafan]

What type of tanks are you looking at.

 

[Dsix36]

Check the dates on the hydros. It is not a deal breaker if they are out of hydro or even getting close, but it will effect the price.

 

[poomero]

Al80 I will check and see what the date is.

 

[bamafan]

Don't buy any luxfer tanks with a manufacture date prior to 1988. They used a bad alloy. The last aluminum 80's I bought were less than $200 each. Keep that in mind when buying old tanks that may need a hydro and vip.

 

[poomero]

Ok thanks guys.

 

[Ouvea]

Remember that the tanks require a hydro-static test every five years, otherwise none of the scuba shops will fill your tank. This is stamped directly near the neck of the tank (Month/Year). Also, it may need a Visual Inspection. Those are valid for one year and is denoted by a sticker that has been applied by the service station.

If the tank has an expired Visual or Hydro-Static date, then I would request that the seller of the Tank resolve those things immediately. If the tanks pass, then the Buyer pays for the Visual and Hydro-Static test in addition to the sale price of the tank. You can deal with a little rust inside the tank by having it tumbled. If the tank fails the Hydro-Static test, then it's garbage and can no longer be used.

 

[Peter_C]

Al80 I will check and see what the date is.

Do not buy aluminum tanks for diving around here. Keep renting if that is what you want to use. When you are ready to buy tanks spend the extra money and get steel tanks from either Worthington, or PST. There are a couple of other brands, like Sherwood, but ideally you want hot dipped galvanized tanks. Many people like Fabers but I have seen them rusty too many times.

Think HP100, HP120, or HP130, depending on your current air consumption and dive times. Your body size dictates some of your air supply needs.

Hydro's and vis' just need to be accounted for into the price. Possibly with an agreement that if they fail hydro you get refunded your money for the tank, not the hydro. Hydro's are around $18 from a fire extinguisher place, and include a vis IF you ask for the sticker.

 

[milbournosphere]

Peter, is there any reason why you wouldn't recommend an Alu 80 if for sale at a good price? I usually get two 80 tank dives in when I head out for a fun dive day, and I get plenty of bottom time. I know that hp100s, 120s, etc. will provide more bottom time and plan to get some eventually, but I can probably get two 80s off of the local CL site for what I would pay for a used steel HP120...

 

[Peter_C]

Cold water divers do better with steel tanks since we have to carry so much weight anyhow. An aluminum tank makes you carry more weight than a steel tank. Look at the weight specs on land and the weight specs in the water. Also you want to carry a large portion of the weight over your lungs, which just happens to be right where your tank goes. Which is also why a stainless steel back plate is nice to use. Again not trying to sink a foam padded BC means less weight and it is over your lungs.

Depending on the dives you are doing, some just are not doable on an AL80. IE: Pretty much any of the shipwrecks as they are too deep for a small tank.

Al80's, actually 77cu ft tanks, work, they just aren't as ideal as steel. Buy what you want the first time and don't waste your money. Rent tanks until you can afford the ones you really want would be my advice.