What regulator do you lust after?

[scrane]

I wouldn't mind a g260 or a titanium barreled Atomic second stage, but I'm not willing to pay what they're going for. I stumbled onto a nice g250/g200 pair at a good price not too long ago. I'd like a TFX second, but I'm kind of mad that Atomic is gouging the price so outrageously. If I didn't already have three d400s I'd certainly lust after that model. I also like my ScubaPro Mk11t, but if someone doesn't have one, the Mk2 or one of the Conshelf firsts makes great lust-bait at value prices.

 

[Scott G. Bonser]

No, I would not do that. Coating over chrome is going to peel and it does. This Navy was stripped and then chromed. It is a Phoenix HPR. I was going to make it a Cyclone but went with the Phoenix nozzle. It does not need to be painted purple or Ceracoated pink.



Moving on. My wife's new 109. White purge cover in silicone from the TSM and white mouthpiece courtesy of Scubapro. So to match her white Scubapro Go-Sports. Trying to move her to Scubapro goodness but she has her fingers wrapped tight around that dang AL legend and keeps trying to confiscate my Titan LX, maybe this will divert her attentions:



Another time capsule I got, NIB from a local store that closed up courtesy of the pandemonium. This was because it had been dropped while showing it to a customer I suppose. The threaded end of the air barrel that mates to the hose was dented and deformed and could not be installed on a hose fitting thus sitting in the stock room for like 40+ years. While I was still working, on coffee break (yeah, sure) I made a female section, half section, of tool steel and set it in a press, a very large and powerful press I had access to. I then made another tool to insert inside the damaged air barrel. And then with fingers crossed let the press do what a big press can do and eased it down pushing the deformed section into the die. The soft brass quickly reformed. Perfect.

Hey, Nemrod, you certainly have quite the setup on your SCUBA workbench ( resembles my kitchen island when I am dissecting a regulator.) I need a much bigger workbench for my projects. All in good time, all in good time……

…really nice ScubaPro, and Rob has the ‘parts’ I got a NIB ScubaPro because i wanted the gauge it had (Vintage, not a ‘lolipop’ style) it came in the box, from an eBay seller all dissasembled but totally brand new…even had tags hanging on it and a name of who it was reserved for. Since I am at work 1 1/2 hours from the house. I will have to send you pics. I assembled it, attached it to a tank and ‘Viola’ ( wah-lah out here in the country ) it was a winner in every way. I have no reservations about taking it diving.

….as for the cerakoting Jerrie does, nice, but not my cup of tea, so-to-say…I like my Vintage DHRs looking vintage with all of the correct working parts, whenever possible. I do have a few ‘retro-fitted’ pieces as my Nemrod Snark III ( riveted ID tag ) is fitted w/a DACOR loop. I I totally disassembled it…clean as a whistle, recently serviced??..did my cleaning and evaluation with ALL insides intact. I reassembled it. A great breather as well. ( also,has new superflex hoses from TSM. )

I will be back in touch. I will have to do a little service on my Pacer soon as I will be taking it to Fl when I go to Pompano Bch. w/‘Green Frog’ …some nice dives on the schedule and I get to do a nice self-evaluation on the ‘Lady Luck’ at 120’ …. No I am not like I used to be ‘back in the day’ …The deeper the better….just doesn’t hold the same desire as it used to.

Yours Truly,
Scott G. Bonser

 

[Scott G. Bonser]

No, I would not do that. Coating over chrome is going to peel and it does. This Navy was stripped and then chromed. It is a Phoenix HPR. I was going to make it a Cyclone but went with the Phoenix nozzle. It does not need to be painted purple or Ceracoated pink.



Moving on. My wife's new 109. White purge cover in silicone from the TSM and white mouthpiece courtesy of Scubapro. So to match her white Scubapro Go-Sports. Trying to move her to Scubapro goodness but she has her fingers wrapped tight around that dang AL legend and keeps trying to confiscate my Titan LX, maybe this will divert her attentions:



Another time capsule I got, NIB from a local store that closed up courtesy of the pandemonium. This was because it had been dropped while showing it to a customer I suppose. The threaded end of the air barrel that mates to the hose was dented and deformed and could not be installed on a hose fitting thus sitting in the stock room for like 40+ years. While I was still working, on coffee break (yeah, sure) I made a female section, half section, of tool steel and set it in a press, a very large and powerful press I had access to. I then made another tool to insert inside the damaged air barrel. And then with fingers crossed let the press do what a big press can do and eased it down pushing the deformed section into the die. The soft brass quickly reformed. Perfect.

Hey there Nemrod, if you could, please send me your mailing address to sgbonser@ncdot.gov, My work e-mail. …I may need to send you something some time and I do have a reference list of ALL of my SCUBA Friends.
Scott G. Bonser

 

[Scott G. Bonser]

I love my AL L3gend reg and octo (but I swapped out my L3gend 1st stage for an Atomic after learning about some accidents and construction problems with the AL resulting them failing in the closed position).

I love how the L3gends breathe, easy adjustment, and how tough they are. What I DON'T like is their heavy weight, particularly when traveling.

I like the weight of my wife's B2 regs. If the troubles with AL continue, I may end up moving over to Atomic for the whole shebang.

My ‘Preferred’ Dive store near me in Virginia Beach, VA is ‘Chesapeake Bay Diving Center’ at Hilltop Plaza. They sell the AL gear. That has sure changed. …still pretty rugged, but why change a ‘good thing’ just make it better. …didn’t hear about the failure in ‘closed’ position. Hmmmm. I think You are on to something.

 

[Nemrod]

…didn’t hear about the failure in ‘closed’ position. Hmmmm. I think You are on to something.

No, he is not on to anything but old news. The shutter valve on early AL regulators (the Legend specifically) could back out and partially block air flow from a K valve (standard yoke). Without any fanfare AL corrected the problem by putting a ridge atop the shutter valve such that it could no longer come flush to the face of the tank (K) valve and block air flow if it backed out due to improper installation. There is a torque specification for the internal screw that retains the shutter valve assembly and properly done, with a torque wrench, and with the new shutter valve there is no longer a problem. The ACD works just fine and does exactly what it is supposed to do, prevent water from entering the first stage when not installed on a tank valve and potentially extending the service interval.

I am not much into guessing or speculation and arm waving, just the facts. The left side is an AL Core Supreme with the improved shutter. On the right is an AL Gen 1 Legend without. The assemblies are interchangeable. I ought to update my wife's Legend but since I own and use a torque wrench I know it will be just fine, and parts from AL are near impossible to obtain:



Anyone worried over this should contact their AL dealer and get a new shutter assembly with the ridge. Good luck because I have found ordering parts from AL to be, shall we say, challenging (due to ALs financial circumstance, receivership and now sale to an investment group). A similar thing might could happen with the previous shutter and a DIN valve. I however have not tested that. The improved shutter has been tested by AL and it works with yoke or DIN first stages. The improved shutter cannot and will not cut off air flow, that is fact.

 

[Scott G. Bonser]

No, he is not on to anything but old news. The shutter valve on early AL regulators (the Legend specifically) could back out and partially block air flow from a K valve (standard yoke). Without any fanfare AL corrected the problem by putting a ridge atop the shutter valve such that it could no longer come flush to the face of the tank (K) valve and block air flow if it backed out due to improper installation. There is a torque specification for the internal screw that retains the shutter valve assembly and properly done, with a torque wrench, and with the new shutter valve there is no longer a problem. The ACD works just fine and does exactly what it is supposed to do, prevent water from entering the first stage when not installed on a tank valve and potentially extending the service interval.

I am not much into guessing or speculation and arm waving, just the facts. The left side is an AL Core Supreme with the improved shutter. On the right is an AL Gen 1 Legend without. The assemblies are interchangeable. I ought to update my wife's Legend but since I own and use a torque wrench I know it will be just fine, and parts from AL are near impossible to obtain:



Anyone worried over this should contact their AL dealer and get a new shutter assembly with the ridge. Good luck because I have found ordering parts from AL to be, shall we say, challenging. A similar thing might could happen with the previous shutter and a DIN valve. I however have not tested that. The improved shutter has been tested by AL and it works with yoke or DIN first stages. The improved shutter cannot and will not cut off air flow, that is fact.

….Sswweeeeeet. Once an issue comes to light, the mfg’rs are usually quick to remedy this. …also if you need certain AL parts let me know. I may be able to get them for you. I found a way to get parts the mfg’r won’t sell to anyone than ‘their’ registered techs. I found out ‘ how to get’ parts trying to get a ‘phragm for my 2 MR12 IIs. Not a bypass but a limited source that I have on ‘retainer’ when needed.

i can comprehend the reasoning for not selling certain parts to ‘just anyone’ claiming to be a repair and service tech.

 

[DreadnoughtNH]

No, he is not on to anything but old news. The shutter valve on early AL regulators (the Legend specifically) could back out and partially block air flow from a K valve (standard yoke). Without any fanfare AL corrected the problem by putting a ridge atop the shutter valve such that it could no longer come flush to the face of the tank (K) valve and block air flow if it backed out due to improper installation. There is a torque specification for the internal screw that retains the shutter valve assembly and properly done, with a torque wrench, and with the new shutter valve there is no longer a problem. The ACD works just fine and does exactly what it is supposed to do, prevent water from entering the first stage when not installed on a tank valve and potentially extending the service interval.

I am not much into guessing or speculation and arm waving, just the facts. The left side is an AL Core Supreme with the improved shutter. On the right is an AL Gen 1 Legend without. The assemblies are interchangeable. I ought to update my wife's Legend but since I own and use a torque wrench I know it will be just fine, and parts from AL are near impossible to obtain:



Anyone worried over this should contact their AL dealer and get a new shutter assembly with the ridge. Good luck because I have found ordering parts from AL to be, shall we say, challenging (due to ALs financial circumstance, receivership and now sale to an investment group). A similar thing might could happen with the previous shutter and a DIN valve. I however have not tested that. The improved shutter has been tested by AL and it works with yoke or DIN first stages. The improved shutter cannot and will not cut off air flow, that is fact.

I appreciate the in depth discussion (my local dive shop owner was not really helpful other in explaining other than saying 'these 1st stages are lethal! don't use them!' I'll check my 1st stage tonight and see if I have the shutter with the ridge. I'm happy with the Atomic 1st stage, but it never hurts to have an functional extra in the truck.

 

[Nemrod]

I appreciate the in depth discussion (my local dive shop owner was not really helpful other in explaining other than saying 'these 1st stages are lethal! don't use them!' I'll check my 1st stage tonight and see if I have the shutter with the ridge. I'm happy with the Atomic 1st stage, but it never hurts to have an functional extra in the truck.

The assembly, either DIN or yoke, from a Core or the current Helix (or Legend) will fit right into the Legend Series 1. You probably should find a new store to do business with.

 

[DreadnoughtNH]

The assembly, either DIN or yoke, from a Core or a Helix (or Legend) will fit right into the Legend Series 1. You probably should find a new store to do business with.

I'd like to, but I'm not blessed with many good options.

 

[Scott G. Bonser]

The assembly, either DIN or yoke, from a Core or a Helix (or Legend) will fit right into the Legend Series 1. You probably should find a new store to do business with.

How do you say proprietary?? Look for stores that have been around awhile and service more than just a few brands. Many times their ‘parts cabinets’ have NOS parts from years past. I found such a place in Houston, TX a long time ago.