What light(s) to buy

[jhelmuth]

Hey guys - thanks for your help. So I've eliminated several choices due to comments and research. I've also learned quite a bit from your coments and advice (which was the goal).

Light that I will not consider at this point...
[A] LED models
Very expensive HID units

Additional Factors...
[A] My dives are in warmer waters with good to excellent viz
Night dives are currently not the norm (and are not likely to be since my wife/buddy is not fond of the idea).
[C] Rentals are an option, but I like the idea of familiarity
[D] Want to eventually pick up UW photography

Considering...
UWK Sunlight C8 & Light Canon
UWK SL4 and Ikelite PCa

I'd welcome any additional suggestions, but I am very greatful to you all for your time and input.

 

[Genesis]

(still) you are going to need strobe(s).

It comes down to money spent. I love my Light Cannon - I won't go back to a C8 unless it proves unreliable (in which case its not worth a thing!)

 

[AquaGuy]

I agree with Genesis, go with the light cannon. I made the mistake of buying a cheaper light and then buying the light cannon so I have an old light that's not used anymore. Make sure you get some good recharable batteries as it burn's through them quickly (I can get 4 hours out with high capacity 4500mh recharabables)

 

[djhall]

I am going to take a night diving class in a few weeks as well. I know I will need primary and backup lights. I don't know if I need a marker light. I have been browsing these posts and looking at lights. I am looking seriously at the following two packages:

Princeton Tec Ultimate Dive Light Set - $70
Shockwave II (7.5/15 Watt, 8 C)
Surge (8 Watt, 8 AA)
Sea Star (1 Watt/Red Led, 2 AAA)

Underwater Kinetics ProPack - $80
Sunlight C8 (13 Watt, 8 C)
Mini Q40 (2 Watts, 4 AA)
Ramora Knife

I am currently leaning toward the Princeton Tec set because it is $10 less, includes a marker light (which I may need), is high/low switchable (not sure if that is useful), and has a higher watt backup light (though people say the Q40 is bright enough).

What is the better deal in your opinions?
Should I look at buying different lights besides these?

 

[Genesis]

is a decent choice.

I prefer the UK C8 to the Princeton, but that's me. I've seen both side-by-side underwater, and like the UK's beam and penetration better.

You will need SOME kind of marker for the class. Chemical glowsticks are perfectly suitable for that, however, and unless you intend to night dive a lot they're ok cost-wise. If you DO intend to do so then the glowsticks can get expensive.

 

[leadweight]

Either of the listed light packages are good products, provided you need the items in them.

If you are diving in water that has poor visibility to start with, or in wrecks, the 8-C cell lights in either box are nice things to have. For warm water with good visibility the big lights just scare off the critters. After all, on a night dive where you are looking for critters it is supposed to be dark. Too much light and the critters revert to their daytime behavior, which means they hide under a rock somewhere.

So, if warm clear water and critters is your style try:
Princeton Surge or Ikelite Pca for a primary.
Princeton Tec40 for a backup.
For the first night dive you can use a cyalume stick. UK makes a nice AAA powered marker light, the dive beacon, for places like Bonaire that ban cyalumes.

The mini q40 only has 2 watts. barely useful IMO.

Personally, I use the PCa as a primary. It is only 4 inches long, runs on 6 AA cells and is bright enough. I had a chance to check out the Surge at CCV recently and it is really nice also. Both of these lights are great for looking into holes during the day.

My backup is a Pelican Supersaber light, but the Tec40 is smaller and just as bright. The Tec40 is also cheap. I will buy one if something happens to my Pelican (or it might wind up in my tool chest it is a great flashllight on land.

Also consider renting a light for the first dive. That will give you a frame of reference for your purchase decission.

 

[Padipro]

If you have a few hand tools and are good at making things it's really not to difficult to build your own 50 watt canister light for around $100. Take a look at the one I built. If you're interested in trying I can give you lots of help.

Scott

Home Built Canister Light

 

[djhall]

I was able to stop by Dolphin Scuba in Sacramento today and looked at the Princeton Tec and UK lights. I discovered I don't particularly care for the lights they have put together in the packages. Looking at LP again, I think I can put together a better package for the same cost ($70-$80).

UK Sunlight C8 - Primary - $45

UK SL-4 - Backup - $25

?? - Marker - $10
UK Mini Beacon (Red?)
Princeton Tec Sea Star (Red LED)
Lazer-Stik Marker Light (Red or Red Flashing)
or Tektite Mark-Lite (Green?)

California coast diving is 50-60 degrees with visibility in the 5 - 40 foot range depending on the location and conditions. I don't think the C8 will be too much light, and I think I could use my SL-4 as a primary and carry the C8 clipped off as a backup for vacation diving in clear waters. The UK HID Light Cannon would be nice, but I can't see spending the extra $100 when I don't know how much night diving I will actually do.

Any recommendations on the marker light? Is red, green, or red flashing better? How do you carry the marker? Are there any special considerations for rechargable batteries for these lights?

 

[Genesis]

consider the one that replaces your yoke screw.

Simple, you won't lose it, and it works.

I personally prefer a glow to a flash, but that's me - I just find flashing lights annoying as heck.

I don't know that color matters; most people using glow sticks will be using green, of course, as its the most common color.

 

[Scuba]

Those are good choices.

A flashing light is easier to see. Attracts more attention. Personal preference, consult your buddy.

I believe green and yellow are more visible than red.

I guess the yoke screw is a good idea. I have one with a lanyard and if you don't position it properly it can slide on the side of the tank and wing becoming almost invisible from many angles. No biggie once you get the hang of it.