What is the best size tanks for sidemount?

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I use my steel lp50's when in a wetsuit and steel lp85's in a drysuit. The weighting is almost perfect.

fun fact, your LP85's are actually more buoyant than LP50's by about a pound. Functionally identical, but you shouldn't see any buoyancy shift when using one or the other
 
Here in SoCal on the diveboats large and small, if you cannot climb a ladder with attached cylinder(s) to get back on deck -especially a Diveboat with a high freeboard- you shouldn't be sidemounting anything larger than 11L Alu tanks (AL80's).

(Else you better tip extra the boat crew for hauling up your tanks upon reboarding post-dive). . .
 
@stretchthepenn Do you have any tanks now?
I have PST HP120s, but I'm selling them, partly because of the valve issue, partly because of the uncertainty regarding the DOT re-permitting that's due next year. (And yes, the left tank is out of trim; I dunno why for sure.)

trim_example_JA.jpg
 
I have PST HP120s, but I'm selling them, partly because of the valve issue, partly because of the uncertainty regarding the DOT re-permitting that's due next year. (And yes, the left tank is out of trim; I dunno why for sure.)

View attachment 473193

if you have valves for them, I wouldn't worry about it. The DOT is going to get them to renew the permit. This happens every time the permit is up for renewal and at the 11th hour they always renew. You can't renew early, the company while not making scuba tanks, is still very much alive, so it'll be fine. Keep what you've got and you'll be good to go for a long time to come
 
Dry? Wet? Cave? Recreational?

I'm not looking for a problem solved, I was just wondering what peoples opinions on what they like was. Just put what you like in the above situations would be a great answer. Thank you again
 
if you have valves for them, I wouldn't worry about it. The DOT is going to get them to renew the permit. This happens every time the permit is up for renewal and at the 11th hour they always renew. You can't renew early, the company while not making scuba tanks, is still very much alive, so it'll be fine. Keep what you've got and you'll be good to go for a long time to come
Thanks for the advice, but I'm gonna sell and replace the PSI HP120 tanks. I had an unnerving experience with a valve drill (I posted about it in the "Near Misses" area), and I want to get valves that don't require extensive cranking, which means I need modern tanks with the 3/4 neck.
 
Thanks for the advice, but I'm gonna sell and replace the PSI HP120 tanks. I had an unnerving experience with a valve drill (I posted about it in the "Near Misses" area), and I want to get valves that don't require extensive cranking, which means I need modern tanks with the 3/4 neck.

I'd argue the desire to go to the 1 1/4" turn pro valves is an equipment solution seeking a non-existent problem, especially considering the first stage free-flow was a regulator assembly issue and something that if it becomes part of your pre-assembly checklist will be prevented. If it's something that spooked you that much then so be it, not much can be done about that
 
I'd argue the desire to go to the 1 1/4" turn pro valves is an equipment solution seeking a non-existent problem, especially considering the first stage free-flow was a regulator assembly issue and something that if it becomes part of your pre-assembly checklist will be prevented. If it's something that spooked you that much then so be it, not much can be done about that
The first-stage failure is a separate issue; I've addressed that already by getting SP regulators. (BTW, anybody wants a deal on a pair of just-serviced HOG D3s, I'mma post them on the sale forum soon.)

The tank issue is personal preference; I'd just like to get modern tanks that take valves that actually make me happy instead of valves that leave me annoyed. Thus, I'd appreciate your and other experts' input on tanks that work well for SM in the parameters I've described.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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