...and it's likely that the suit only comes with the gland - which is E/O on one side ("earth/ocean"), and terminated in either an SAE trailer plug, coax, molex, or Anderson connector inside, depending on what was used. It would be highly unusual to have the jacket go with it.
The suit-side sockets are very expensive ($100-$200, depending) even as an OEM. They're installed much like a p-valve would be, only usually on the torso or chest.
It is imperative that if you choose to dive with a drysuit heater, you have a way to shut it off underwater. (Yes, there are some idiots diving with battery operated vests inside the suit with no power control, but they completely deserve whatever burns they will eventually get...)
On the outside, you use a normal canister light pack, with the wire/light head replaced with an E/O cord. Any standard can light canister can be retrofitted for about $50 to supply power appropriate to using with a heated vest. Most manufacturers will also sell you cans/battery/cord sets so that you don't have to cannibalize an old light, or you can fairly easily make your own on a lathe, or with plumbing parts if you don't care about things that look sketchy ugly.
Suit heaters are great when you need them, but are no substitute for appropriate and proper drysuit underwear. I have one I built, and use, but I use it for long deco hangs, or long (2 hour or more) scooter dives, both places where I'm just not expending a lot of effort. FWIW, I did Antarctica last year (28 degree water) without one, and didn't need it...but I was swimming around a lot