The problem with the LF humidity strips is 1) you cant see them in real time use and 2) they are activated at 40% RH which is way too wet. Probably not a big deal if the only the first one is partially changing. But for cold water you want that 2nd one totally blue blue. And a final RH in the 10-20% range.
The second filter has never been anything but 100% blue, even today. The first filter has never been, either, until this spring, where it was 100% tan. So it gets replaced no question.
It's not so much that I *want* to think of it as a hyperfilter, but that's really what it is. It's a bunch of add-on stuff attached to a board that I feed the output of the compressor into. The board was originally designed and built when I was going to use an MCH-6, which *needed* (or, at least, could really use) some help. Then I got this compressor before I even filled a single tank with the MCH-6, and it already has a reasonable coalescer and large filter stack nicely integrated into it, and I'd be a fool to tear it apart. Really, the entire filter board is completely superfluous, but I have it, so I use it. So it's a hyperfilter!
PFU-150 High Pressure Compressors - Fill Stations - For Fire Service and Scuba Diving - Poseidon Air Systems - Colchester Vermont
Just placed the order for a 13x/AC filter for the compressor. I could still disconnect the filter board tomorrow and have at *least* Grade E, if not OCA, and I have CO monitoring to cover the lack of hopcalite.
It really is a nice compressor -- except for the drains!
Thank you all for your help. I'd certainly love to hear some other perspectives as well! But I've ordered the cartridge...