What Do You Have on Your Boat that You Love?

[Chuck Tribolet]

Danobee was talking about the chain that goes between the anchor and the line, not an all chain
rode.

Everybody wants to get a bigger anchor. Don't. Get whatever the West Marine catalog specs
for your size boat, it's big enough. If you upsize anything, upsize the LENGTH of the chain. The
longer chain will help the anchor bite and reduce the abrasion on the nylon.

 

[Darnold9999]

Danobee was talking about the chain that goes between the anchor and the line, not an all chain
rode.

so was I My stupid boat owner story: Bought a boat with WAY too much chain. Didn't measure it just assumed that it would be OK as there was lots of chain in the locker and I really didn't know what I was doing. First time we put the anchor out it was in deepish water and the chain kept going and going and going ... next morning I couldn't lift it back into the boat and I was much younger then. Had to drag the anchor closer to shore (not a simple task as you can imagine) finally got it all back on the boat. Measured it later and cut it in half. As I recall there was something like 50 feet of quite heavy chain on a 28 foot boat. This was a very long time ago so I really don't remember the amount, I just remember trying to lift the whole thing out of the water and feeling quite foolish. More is not better in this case.

 

[Daz]

The length of rode (be it chain or line) is not really dependent on boat length - it should really be based on the depth of the water you are anchoring in. Optimal scope is generally considered to be at least 7:1.

 

[matt_unique]

7:1 is for a very high hold necessity such as strong winds and seas from a storm. In most diving conditions 3:1 is plenty. A 150' rode with 15' of chain is plenty for most small boat applications. Certain conditions and circumstances would require more.

 

[dannobee]

Since we're talking about anchoring and lifting heavy amounts of chain and anchors, one method that makes lifting the thing up a lot easier is to use a mooring ball/float along with a big ring and a mesh or lift bag (to add drag in the water).

When you're ready to lift the anchor, clip the ball and bag to the anchor line, then motor away. The anchor line and chain will slide through the ring. Motor back and take up the anchor line. The anchor will be at the ring, just below the mooring ball.

I pity the person who has an all chain rode and no windlass. When I was taking a yachting class, all of the rental boats had anchor windlasses and I was in heaven. It's really nice to be able to lift the anchor from the bridge with just the press of a button.

Oh, and the 7:1 scope is meant for shallow overnight anchoring where there might not be a person on watch for extended periods. I've had good luck using 3:1, even in heavy seas and high winds. We (divers) have the added advantage of being able to "set" the anchor when we get to the bottom, minimizing the chance of the anchor dragging.

 

[captain]

For those using a Danfoth type anchor here is my method for retreiving it. I motor up untill I am directly over the anchor, tie off the rode to a cleat and start backing up. This breaks it free and the flukes flip up and act as a wing that flies the anchor up to the surface. Once it is skiping on the surface while continueing to back up it is very easy to haul it in,
I was taught this by a old head boat captain who never hauled in the anchor between fishing spots. He would simply bring the rode around to the stern, tie off the rode at the stern and let it skip on the surface until he got to the next spot. All he had to do was stop and untie from the stern and he was anchored

 

[VooDooGasMan]

Anchoring here in our waters you just need a 10' chain not real heavy duty, the anchor for peters boat is two options, a light that will grab, or dig in. now if you have a set up on the front to lock in the anchor and a roller system, the heavy anchor is real easy.

The heavy anchor makes it so the boat will be simple to pull anchor, The currents we have will lodge a anchor in pretty good, sometimes its hard to pull slack on boat to free it before you go up.

You will try many ways as the bottom has many different ways to hold.

Get a 300' foot rope, some of the best wall diving has some depth, be prepared.

next very Important if in the san juans, want to go two shore, Get a anchor buddy.

An anchor buddy is a thick bungie inside of a nylon rope, you hook the anchor buddy in depth bring boat to shore, use the anchore rope to tie to shore, when out of the boat it will go out to depth, now the tide can go out and you dont have to worry.

Docks fill up fast in the sanjuans, so don't count on dock space, except in winter.

This buddy anchor also helps when wall diving so not to bang on rocks or wall.

 

[The Chad]

For safty things I like... duel Rule 1500gph bilge pumps, re-done wiring to independant isolated batteries, a ditch bag w/ flares, dye, MRE's and a water desalinator pump.
For fun....lots of cooler space, a 5000 watt stereo and a supercharger

 

[Sean222]

Humminbird side scan sonar, works great to 150 feet even in saltwater despite what the naysayers claim. For one thousand smakeroos you can get the little 797s side scan with Navionics charts preloaded. I am very pleased with Humminbird support and performance. I cannot recommend them enough.

I will second the SSS. I bought the 997 which was more like $2200 and it is worth every penny!

 

[Nemrod]

Yes, Sean222, the 997 is a great machine and you will be happy to hear there is an even larger screen 1097c and it is awesome. I hate that word but in this case--it fits. Current side scan models are the small 797c, medium size 997c (replaced 987c) and the large screen (huge) 1197c.

N