Hey Champ,
Over the years I've spent quite a bit of time on Utila. It is my favorite place. It's not fancy, in fact much like the carribean was 40 years ago. If you're looking for an all inclusive there are three, Deep Blue Resort, Laguna Beach and Utila Lodge. There are 11 dive operations on the island andthey are very competitive.
I've been there three times in 2003. Two weeks in Feb, Five weeks in April & may and two weeks in November. If you don't plan to stay in an all inclusive there are places you can obtain ranging from a basic room to a small hotel. You can get a room for about $4-$6 nite. We usually rent a furnished apt when we stay for longer periods of time. In November we stayed at the Hotel Rose ($18.00 night) and dove with Deep Blue Divers (Separate operation from their all inclusive.) The hotel is directly across the street form DB Divers. The Coco Loco bar is at the end of the pier behind Deep Blue. All kinds of small reasonable places to eat up and down main street. Dive packages at Deep Blue and most of the other operation run about $125.00 for 10 dive packages. Most include equip if you don't have your own equip. Check around. You can walk anywhere on the island. Best time to see Whale Sharks is February and March & part of April. They are seen there all year around, just not like in the peak months I've mentioned. Hope this has been of help.
Regards,