Warning Multi Lithium Battery Lights

[fmerkel]

Also, if you are in a situation where light is critical, do not buy the protected batteries. You want unprotected so that it will go as long as possible, even if it kills your batteries.

The difference between when a protected battery gives out and unprotected is generally trivial. A lot depends on the light driver anyway. Sometimes the light itself has a cut-off in it. On a light like this it is problematic knowing anything at all about the driver.Protected batteries are a good idea, especially if you are going to push them to their minimum voltage/maximum run time.
In a series light ONE battery will always be the weak one and you'll end up over discharging it if not protected but the battery PCB or the light itself. Then you end up with a whole host of other problems with an over discharged battery. Not a good idea for someone not highly knowledgeable about lithium care.

[Note - a light driver based cut-off protection is no sure protection for any INDIVIDUAL battery. It protects the 'pack' not the individuals.]

I agree with KDAD, in a critical situation you need to have a reliable backup light. Doubly so if you can't trust your primary.

 

[Peter69_56]

It could be the torch......or it could be the batteries.....or it could be both.

Even cheap/crap batteries should not have gone dead in that short period of time, unless they are unbelievable junk. You have some kind of parasitic drain. Pretty much ANYTHING with the word [Fire] on it, Ultrafire being the poster child of this battery, are likely complete junk, and potentially dangerous junk. You should ONLY buy major brand name batteries (Panasonic, Sanyo, LG, Sony, etc) and they should be PROTECTED cells for a multi-cell light like this. If you were using protected cells the protection could have been tripped so they would show zero volts until the protection is reset. If you don't now what a protected cell is you shouldn't be playing with this kind of light.

So, it's probably the light. Buy unknown cheap Chinese lights and batteries and you take the risk of this kind of issue, along with poor workmanship, flooding, and they NEVER EVER live up to the output claims.

The only way around this is insert, use and remove the cells. Or put a new driver in the light, which is a task way beyond this discussion. Frankly, I think I'd go for a refund if possible and get a known decent dive light. Don't get sucked in by these exaggerated claims.

I hope you also have a good charger. The cheap unbranded ones are just that....cheap. Xtar, Nitecore, Liitokala are some good brands out there. IMO it's worth springing for a good analyzing 4-bay charger like the Opus or Liitokala

Ok thanks for the info. I agree I think its the light as I have had no issues with the batteries before with my other torches. I will investigate the chargers as well

 

[Peter69_56]

Thought that is why diving in a critical situation you have a backup light. Or even a second backup light in a very critical situation.

I usuallycarry 2 or 3. This was just looking for a wider beam light

 

[Peter69_56]

Weren't you getting hosed a while ago buying a cheapo Chinese compressor that never worked? In any case. This site has good batteries and chargers: LG 18650MJ1 Protected 3500mAh

Yes. I think I have a light fetish!

I have had some good luck with lights and Aliexpress. The compressor was from Alibaba and I wouldn't buy from them again due to little if no protection.

Aliexpress has been ok and any issues I have had they have refunded. On this occasion I left it too long before doing something about it. Its not a big cost item. The compressor however was.

Anyway thanks for the details I will look into them. I really need a canister light I think