Want to double up tanks, but which ones?

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This is the one I have. No problems so far, and I see they're on sale now.
 
In addition, there is the issue of double 130s and a wetsuit . . . which is real. You definitely need redundant buoyancy (drysuit, lift bag, or, although I don't like the option, a double wing).

Just wondering, why would you prefer a lift bag over a double wing?
 
I do not believe any of my LDS's rent doubles. I think I called on this last year...

...I'm looking at some AL back plates to see if I can't balance my rig a bit better. I'll let you all know what I figure out!
Chris, I have a couple AL plates sitting around and you could borrow one to try out. We could work a deal if you want to buy it.

If interested I could leave it at Divers Den next weekend.

Also, If we can connect at Millbrook some weekend, I can also let you test drive one of my sets of X7-100's or Faber LP 95's.

Faber 95's are not a bad way to go if you only own one set of doubles for everything. They are about 8 pounds heavier per set than HP 100's but are about 12 pounds lighter per set than 130's. You can get 3600 psi fills in N FL which turns them into lightweight 130's and in NC you can get a 3000 psi fill from at least one operator making them 108's.

Just wondering, why would you prefer a lift bag over a double wing?
1. Stacking two wings is a PITA and often requires slightly longer bolts.

2. Double bladder wings are somewhat problematic as the two bladders can interfere with each other reducing the reliability of each of them individually.

3. And in either case, the extra inflator assembly screws with a normal hog configuration.

4. With reasonable care and maintainece a wing failure is really rare, so in my opinon a lift bag is a much better way to deal with a very low probability event - preferrable to using a double bladder wing or stacked wing that screws with your configuration on every single dive.

Of course the ideal approach is a dry suit.
 
Another thing you could do would be to double up the 100s and take along a 130 and a fill whip to top off the doubles between dives.

I've been trying to find simple DIN to DIN trans fill whips, with not much luck. Using the Vance Harlow methods, I'm sure I could make one, but a mixing whip would serve the exact same purpose? Obviously have to change out the CGA 540 or 580 valve to a DIN, but it is the same principal. Right?
 
This is the one I have. No problems so far, and I see they're on sale now.

Sorry...I missed this post.

This begs to question, this is $190. For another $160 I can get a basic mixing whip. I'd have to get a DIN valve, but would it make sense to get a mixing whip instead?
 

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