Valve leak

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Sas

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Hi

I was diving tonight and noticed that my right post valve is leaking from around the rubber knob. It seems to be leaking from the screw at the end of the valve as you look into the rubber knob thing. How do I fix this? This screw seems loose compared to the left post so I tightened it, it fixed it for a bit and then it started leaking again after I turned it off then on again. I don't really know what I am doing so didn't want to do anything else to it.

Any ideas would be great as to how to fix this cheers! Or I can take it to a shop on Sat. It's a Salvo 300bar manifold.
 

Tortuga68

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#12?

dinvalveschem.gif
 

Sas

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Thanks for the picture! So how would I go about fixing something like that? Is it easy? The leak appears to be... but I am not certain... from around about 3.

How would this leak have occurred?
 

Tortuga68

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Um, it's easy enough if you have the right tools and replacement parts

#3 is the spindle, the leak is likely to be from one of the seals on the spindle (eg #12)

Normal wear and tear would be the usual cause
 

Sas

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Um, it's easy enough if you have the right tools and replacement parts

Err, probably not :wink: I'll just take it to be looked at on the weekend.

Normal wear and tear would be the usual cause

Grr, they're three months old!
 

Randy43068

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what kind of valve is it?

If it's a Thermo it could be the copper crush washer or the "O" ring that goes between the stem and the big nut that holds the stem in place. I can't recall off hand the size of the "O" ring. If I recall correctly ( and I may not be ) it's a size 9 o-ring

Sorry, it's a Salvo I see now.
 

Fishpie

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It's most likely the o ring (12) that is sandwiched between the white washers (11 and 13).
Different makes of valve will have some similar combination of washers and o ring.....some with only one washer and some with no o ring.
The fix is very simple.
Remove the nut that attaches the hand wheel using a flathead screwdriver with a notch cut in it....it can be done with a regular flathead but it's much better to use the right tool.
Once you have the handwheel off use the correct size spanner to undo gland nut 2.
The spindle 3 will come out with the gland nut......push out the spindle and replace packing washers and o ring....use some appropriate lube.
When you replace make sure the spindle is fully located in the valve seat before tightening the gland nut.
btw, you don't have to drain the tank to do this.
 

captain

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This is a simple fix but first you have to determine exactly where the leak is.
begin by removing the hand wheel nut #5 Once it is removed remove the hand wheel and spring #'s 6 and 8. Now determine if the leak is coming from between the spindle #3 and the gland nut #2 or from between the gland nut #2 and the valve body #1.
If it is leaking between the spindle and the gland nut remove the gland nut and replace #11 delrin washer and #12 O ring.
If it is leaking between the gland nut and body first try tightening the gland nut. If the leak doesn't stop remove the gland nut and replace delrin washer #13.
All of this can be done with the valve closed and the tank full.

Looks like Fishpie beat me by a minute.
 

H2O 70

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You can use a golf divot tool to remove the valve knob and then it is nothing more than regular wrenches after that. This goes without saying, but make sure you have the air removed from the tanks!
 

Randy43068

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You can use a golf divot tool to remove the valve knob and then it is nothing more than regular wrenches after that. This goes without saying, but make sure you have the air removed from the tanks!

Naw, you really don't need to drain the tank for this simple fix.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/
https://cylindertrainingservices.com/training-program/

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