uwatec galileo sol transmitter battery - can I do it myself?

[orenbvip]

I have a trip in 48hrs and I forgot that last trip my transmitter stopped working for a week or so of diving. I am guessing the battery is dead? Is this something I can change myself? if so how hard is it ?

not the biggest deal since i have a SPG on my rig but would like to have the air function back.


thanks,

 

[ChickenFried]

I changed the battery in my Luna transmitter without issues. I would expect the Sol is similar. It was just a couple of screws and the cover pops off. I was able to find a replacement battery at Walmart for $5.

 

[underH2Oman]

Yes you can change it yourself. Just make sure the o-ring is still good. I generally replace it with the battery every time regardless of its condition.

 

[Hatul]

There are two versions of the transmitter one has a common battery, and the newer has one more difficult to find but lasts longer. You need to open up the transmitter and find which you have.

 

[tbrady]

If your transmitter has torx screws, you cannot change the battery. It is a brick. You can trade it in at Scubapro for a new one.
If it has phillips screws, you can change the battery.

 

[Jax]

First, if it has little black dots on the screws, it is a plastic they put in the torque head. That version is full of oil. I would not call it a brick, but you would have to solder in a batter and close it in a bowl of oil. A pain, but has been done.

Second, the newer ones. Remember this thing is going to depth. When you take it apart, do so *carefully*. Remove 3 screws and *gently* pry straight away using the screwdriver slots provided. Some do not have the slots.

Pull the cover part way off, and carefully observe how it goes on. Note the O-ring, and position of the circuit board and battery. There are some fins inside the cover that make it go on only one way.

Now you treat it like the dive light batteries or camera case. Use a Q-tip to clean the inside of the cover, especially where it goes over the O-ring. *Carefully* remove and examine the O-ring. Clean the O-ring slot and mounting surface. Magnifying glasses are good. No kitty hair, no nothing. Use fresh Q-tips over and over.

Then lightly dab silicon at all O-ring and mating surfaces. Do the same to the O-ring and run you thumb and finger around it. You should not see the lube texture, but it should shine.

Carefully put it together, and tighten the screws evenly. Tight and even are the clue. Don't over tighten and strip the screw or the head of the screw.

See? Easy! :doh:

 

[Wookie]

First, if it has little black dots on the screws, it is a plastic they put in the torque head. That version is full of oil. I would not call it a brick, but you would have to solder in a batter and close it in a bowl of oil. A pain, but has been done.

Second, the newer ones. Remember this thing is going to depth. When you take it apart, do so *carefully*. Remove 3 screws and *gently* pry straight away using the screwdriver slots provided. Some do not have the slots.

Pull the cover part way off, and carefully observe how it goes on. Note the O-ring, and position of the circuit board and battery. There are some fins inside the cover that make it go on only one way.

Now you treat it like the dive light batteries or camera case. Use a Q-tip to clean the inside of the cover, especially where it goes over the O-ring. *Carefully* remove and examine the O-ring. Clean the O-ring slot and mounting surface. Magnifying glasses are good. No kitty hair, no nothing. Use fresh Q-tips over and over.

Then lightly dab silicon at all O-ring and mating surfaces. Do the same to the O-ring and run you thumb and finger around it. You should not see the lube texture, but it should shine.

Carefully put it together, and tighten the screws evenly. Tight and even are the clue. Don't over tighten and strip the screw or the head of the screw.

See? Easy! :doh:

tbrady changes uwatec batteries for a living. If he says it's a brick.....

 

[tbrady]

First, if it has little black dots on the screws, it is a plastic they put in the torque head. That version is full of oil. I would not call it a brick, but you would have to solder in a batter and close it in a bowl of oil. A pain, but has been done.

Let me elaborate just a little. Uwatec built some devices at the time using volatile memory of which the compass, old style transmitter, and bottom timer, were included. If the battery went dead, the memory and programming were gone, ie. "brick". If anyone has been able to revive an old transmitter with a dead battery, I'd like to hear about it.

 

[Centrals]

Let me elaborate just a little. Uwatec built some devices at the time using volatile memory of which the compass, old style transmitter, and bottom timer, were included. If the battery went dead, the memory and programming were gone, ie. "brick". If anyone has been able to revive an old transmitter with a dead battery, I'd like to hear about it.

I remember reading something similar on its Bottom Timer. You need to change the battery first before the power run out and rely on external power to keep the memory alive before replacing the old battery.

 

[tmolnes]

I have the one with phillips head screws. and the instruction manual says that you must wait for 10sec after you remove the battery, and 60sec (to reboot/test sequence) after you replace the battery. Just to mention it, I had som syncing issues with my transmitters but after i removed the battery and did the forementioned it syncs OK