UW Light Dude G6 Product Release

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Bobby

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I can't remember what the normal cap is, but I wouldn't recommend getting a traditional top gland. Since there is no switch on the canister, the side gland actually routes better

Thanks, @tbone1004.

So, a Tall with a side gland light head and a top gland heat controller would be about 11.4 + 2 + 1, or 14.4" tall, not counting the gland that is sticking out of the top?

And, adding a video light head to that would make it about 16.4" tall?

tbone is correct. The 5k video light and heat controller come standard with stack caps, the primary you would want the side gland cap to match up the glands coming out of the caps. I often run a heat controller, 5k video light, and primary on a tall canister. The cords run together coming out of their caps and makes for a clean setup.

The total height profiles are about right. I'll double check when I get out to the shop.
 

rddvet

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I was worried about needing another battery (have the large one) to run a heater. You guys are running heater, light, and video light all on the same battery, so I guess I shouldn't be worried about it.
 

tbone1004

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I was worried about needing another battery (have the large one) to run a heater. You guys are running heater, light, and video light all on the same battery, so I guess I shouldn't be worried about it.

The engineering that @Bobby did on these lights, means that the batteries are more than capable of driving all of that. It's one of the many benefits of being a 5s pack at 18v instead of a 3s pack at 11.1v.
That said, the battery is only so big in terms of watt hours, so make sure you run the math on discharge to make sure you have enough burn time.
 

rddvet

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Didn’t there used to be a heated vest on the website? I don’t see one anymore.
 

tbone1004

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Didn’t there used to be a heated vest on the website? I don’t see one anymore.

Still ironing out the kinks to find a heated vest that is equally as bad ass as the lights. @Bobby is actively working on that solution and the right company to partner with.
 

stuartv

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Still ironing out the kinks to find a heated vest that is equally as bad ass as the lights. @Bobby is actively working on that solution and the right company to partner with.

When I am ready to buy one, it *would* be nice if UWLD was a One Stop Quality Shop to provide me a big-ass battery and ALL the different things I'm going to connect to it.

Can he work on a more low profile power passthru for my drysuit, too? :D Or maybe just a P-valve-like deal that doesn't require me to stack anything in with my inflator valve? Preferably with no pigtail left dangling on the outside of my suit when I'm not using it... Maybe a removable cap that has the power pigtail and then a blank cap for when I don't need the power pigtail?

I mean... how hard can it be?!? :acclaim::acclaim:

:rofl3::rofl3::rofl3:
 

tbone1004

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When I am ready to buy one, it *would* be nice if UWLD was a One Stop Quality Shop to provide me a big-ass battery and ALL the different things I'm going to connect to it.

Can he work on a more low profile power passthru for my drysuit, too? :D Or maybe just a P-valve-like deal that doesn't require me to stack anything in with my inflator valve? Preferably with no pigtail left dangling on the outside of my suit when I'm not using it... Maybe a removable cap that has the power pigtail and then a blank cap for when I don't need the power pigtail?

Is the SiTech Vega not low enough profile? Bobby actually had a hand in that one.
They do make dedicated heater valves that are similar to p-valves but you have to punch another hole in the suit.

Part of the conundrum with the dangly bit is that the EO receptacles are fairly large, so the cord is the compromise to make it as low profile as possible. It also removes the ability to change the type of cord that you have, and if for whatever reason you bugger up the contacts, you have to trash the entire valve. Not exactly the best solution in my opinion. With something like the vega though, you can easily control the length of the EO cord dangling out since it uses a similar sealing gland to what we have on the lights, so at home you can shorten the tail considerably.
 

Bobby

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Didn’t there used to be a heated vest on the website? I don’t see one anymore.

In the past I did resell a heated vest from another manufacturer. Unfortunately they were not providing good after sale support and warranty repair. I have not been able to find a heated vest manufacturer that provides good support yet. I won't resell anything unless they have the same type of after sale and warranty support as I do.
 

Bobby

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When I am ready to buy one, it *would* be nice if UWLD was a One Stop Quality Shop to provide me a big-ass battery and ALL the different things I'm going to connect to it.

Can he work on a more low profile power passthru for my drysuit, too? :D Or maybe just a P-valve-like deal that doesn't require me to stack anything in with my inflator valve? Preferably with no pigtail left dangling on the outside of my suit when I'm not using it... Maybe a removable cap that has the power pigtail and then a blank cap for when I don't need the power pigtail?

I mean... how hard can it be?!? :acclaim::acclaim:

:rofl3::rofl3::rofl3:

The Vega valve is what I use. It is very low profile and both the LP and E/O ports swivel. The inflate button is also recessed so it won't get pushed when going through tight stuff.
 

stuartv

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Is the SiTech Vega not low enough profile? Bobby actually had a hand in that one.
They do make dedicated heater valves that are similar to p-valves but you have to punch another hole in the suit.

Part of the conundrum with the dangly bit is that the EO receptacles are fairly large, so the cord is the compromise to make it as low profile as possible. It also removes the ability to change the type of cord that you have, and if for whatever reason you bugger up the contacts, you have to trash the entire valve. Not exactly the best solution in my opinion. With something like the vega though, you can easily control the length of the EO cord dangling out since it uses a similar sealing gland to what we have on the lights, so at home you can shorten the tail considerably.

The Vega valve is what I use. It is very low profile and both the LP and E/O ports swivel. The inflate button is also recessed so it won't get pushed when going through tight stuff.

My thought was a port that does require another hole in the suit. But, from the outside, when NOT being used, it would look a lot like a Si Tech Trigon pee valve. I.e. it would be thin and flat and super low profile. And it would have no holes. It would just have electrical contacts flush in its surface.

Then there would be another piece that has the E/O pigtail coming out of it. When you want heat, that piece would just attach to the part that is installed in the suit. Maybe a quarter-turn bayonet-style connection. Or maybe you position it how you want and then screw down an outer locking ring or something, so you have infinite adjustment on the position of the pigtail.

The whole point being that when you don't have heat, you have the least amount of bulk on your suit and no pigtail dangling at all.

Disclaimer: I have never had any kind of suit heater. So, I get that this may just be the ramblings of the ignorant, addressing a problem that literally does not exist. :) I just don't like the look of the solutions that leave a pigtail dangling unused.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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