US Divers 1085 Second Stage: How do I remove the exhaust t?

[TectonicDrake]

So I'm going to be rebuilding one of these either today or tomorrow when the rebuild kit comes in. I've watched VDH's video but they don't cover how to remove the exhaust T. I assume this is a common fairly universal operation but how is it done? Do you just have to get aggressive and pull it off? Are there some kind of screws you have to remove? I'd like to throw all the metal parts in a vinegar solution but I can't do that until I have exhaust t off.

 

[runsongas]

hot water soak, then it should pull off.

 

[txgoose]

^^^ Yep. Warm it up. Soften it up. Pull it off. Warming it makes it more pliable.

 

[TectonicDrake]

Awesome thanks!

 

[GJC]

Depending on the age and how it was cared for, the rubber may still be difficult to remove after a warm water soak. It may tear on removal, so be prepared for that disappointment.

You can get a modern style replacement from VDH, but that doesn't provide the original restoration.

I have had a couple that I decided to not try to remove and soaked the reg in Venegar while keeping the rubber mostly out of the soak, and rinsing in distilled water overnight. Replacing the exhaust valve gets tricky, but can be done with the exhaust T in place.

 

[TectonicDrake]

This isn't in horrible condition, but it's not in great condition so I don't feel like I'm doing it a disservice by not keeping all the original parts. It's technically an Aquarius but the sticker is in rough shape and I can't find a reproduction for that sticker so I have a silver conshelf 14 sticker on it's way in the mail. If the exhaust T tears I'll bite the bullet and order another.

My end goal is to get a second 1085 and a vintage conshelf 14 first stage or similar diaphragm 1st stage for a pure vintage single hose setup.

On a side note. I need to just stop talking about this stuff at my local dive shop though, those guys are about ready to throw me in the loony bin. I mentioned wanting to service my own stuff and ordering an IP gauge and they looked at me like I was speaking gibberish. And tried to explain to me how this kit was going to kill me even if I took it into a pool. And it could induce hypoxia more so than modern safer setups. But couldn't explain beyond that.

 

[GJC]

This isn't in horrible condition, but it's not in great condition so I don't feel like I'm doing it a disservice by not keeping all the original parts. It's technically an Aquarius but the sticker is in rough shape and I can't find a reproduction for that sticker so I have a silver conshelf 14 sticker on it's way in the mail. If the exhaust T tears I'll bite the bullet and order another.

My end goal is to get a second 1085 and a vintage conshelf 14 first stage or similar diaphragm 1st stage for a pure vintage single hose setup.

On a side note. I need to just stop talking about this stuff at my local dive shop though, those guys are about ready to throw me in the loony bin. I mentioned wanting to service my own stuff and ordering an IP gauge and they looked at me like I was speaking gibberish. And tried to explain to me how this kit was going to kill me even if I took it into a pool. And it could induce hypoxia more so than modern safer setups. But couldn't explain beyond that.

You will not have a problem finding 1085s and XIV first stages in surprisingly good shape on eBay. Just create a search, save it and check it every few days. Just be patient and keep watching for a while before you purchase. You will find one with almost new looking chrome and few scratches. Occasionally one will show up that is in an original box and was never used diving.

Consider Conshelf 21 or 22 first stages. They are exactly the same as XIVs except that the HP port is the modern 7/16" size and will fit new HP hoses. XIV HP ports are 3/8" and will need an adapter to fit a modern HP hose.

Speaking of hoses. I pretty much always replace the old hoses with new. Even if they look very good, you never know when an old one will develop a crack. They also tend to accumulate a lot of dust and dirt inside that is not easy to get rid of and I don't like the idea of inhaling that stuff.

Just ignore your dive shop critics. I really like chrome plated brass and think it works just as well as most modern regulators and holds up better than plastic. New Conshelf 14 first and metal second stages are still produced and available (at pretty steep prices). My brother inadvertently drove over his second stage with his car tire and it only had some external scratches. He still dives with it. Try that with a plastic second stage.

 

[txgoose]

And tried to explain to me how this kit was going to kill me even if I took it into a pool. And it could induce hypoxia more so than moderBut couldn't explain beyond that.

Shoot! I always test mine in the shallow end of the pool after any maintenance on my own gear. Ask for clarification. They may be saying that pools are bad. </sarcasm>. I do actually test my “old” chrome plated brass regulators in the shallow end of the pool. One tried to kill me but I stood up and beat it against the coping of the pool. </sorry went sarcastic again> Read. Learn. Practice. Test (in a pool or any shallow area). Rinse and repeat as you see needed.

 

[TectonicDrake]

Thanks for the encouragement guys! The exhaust T did tear, while I originally thought it was pretty flexible all the rubber touching the metal housing even when heated with super hot water was still like rock. So probably worth replacing anyway.

gjc thanks for the tip about the Conshelf 21-22 first stages. I'll keep my eye out for those.

Txgood that's kinda what I've heard about the reliability of these things, now I may be wrong. But when the dive store guys say "it's life saving equipment, you want the newest and best" I remember that machines with fewer moving parts fail less..... And also if it's my butt on the line I want to learn to maintain it all properly and that seems a lot more complicated with more fiddly bits like modern regs.

 

[GJC]

Thanks for the encouragement guys! The exhaust T did tear, while I originally thought it was pretty flexible all the rubber touching the metal housing even when heated with super hot water was still like rock. So probably worth replacing anyway.

gjc thanks for the tip about the Conshelf 21-22 first stages. I'll keep my eye out for those.

Txgood that's kinda what I've heard about the reliability of these things, now I may be wrong. But when the dive store guys say "it's live saving equipment, you want the newest and best" I remember that machines with fewer moving parts fail less..... And also if it's my butt on the line I want to learn to maintain it all properly and that seems a lot more complicated with more fiddly bits like modern regs.

Aqua Lung Exhaust Tee for Conshelf XIV 1019-19

$11 or VDH has them also for $30. I didn't look at shipping charges to compare them.