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The balls on the ultralight handles can be removed and loc-line can be mounted it is not mandatory to use ball mount and in fact you can buy the handles without it
This is the set up with my sony rx100 About « Interceptor121 Underwater Video
I think my tray is pretty much complete now except for some balancing with small weights on the bottom and floats on the upper bar to help keep upright orientation in the water (thanks 3D Diver for the idea).
The tray is DIY from generic black plastic found in my home shop, and black plastic rod. Connections are all stainless. Not shown in the pictures is a piece of velcro on the bottom to keep the lens cap out of the way. Light arm is 3/4" LocLine from Smith and Foster (online). The light is from DX.com and costs $15.50 with shipping (no battery for that price). It claims 1000 lumens and uses one 18650 3.7V LiIon battery. Light turns on with a twist. I have pressure tested the light to >100' and it has 2 internal sealing o-rings. I will get a brighter light when I replace the outside diffuser (piece of translucent plastic) with something inside. Anyhow it is very helpful as is, and for the price I can even add another.
Left to right: Lens w/ diffuser; Lens and diffuser; Tray and camera; Light beam tests; With video light; same place without video light.
Correction to label on the beam tests: The DRIS light is 3 c-cells and 3.75V (bottom right). The can light (top right) is running at about 400 lumens and is capable of nearly 950 if I drive it at 3A - which I will when my new driver arrives.
Tigger, Great Job on the DIY rig, that's half the fun sometimes.
I appreciate you sharing the idea of Velco on the lens cap, good idea.
I may suggest you wrap a couple layers of electrical tape around your hose clamps up on the light arm? I don't like sharp metal objects on my hands underwater, so simple electrical tape could "pad" any sharp edges on those screws so nothing catches on them like flesh or wetsuit..
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