Truk (Chuuk) - great diving,sad island

[divepix]

I just returned from hosting my 4th group to Truk. This trip was on the Odyssey, a nice liveaboard (I've been on better and worse, but it was good). The previous 3 trips were on the Aggressor, now operating in Sulawesi. I first dived Truk in 1991 and each time I go, I notice the downward spiral of the overall conditions on the island.
I try not to be an "ugly American" and criticize the countries I visit as different cultures are not wrong just because they are not like America; however, the island of Truk is a very sad thing to see.
The adults appear to want to do nothing to make their home a nice place to live or visit, and the children are growing up in a pitiful environment with no hope if they stay and no reason to want to.
The roads are torn up, the buildings in poor states of repair, trash is everywhere, and the airport is a joke, both in facility and services. Worst yet, no one seems to care and it is getting worse each time I visit. Locals tell me a few people on the island control all the money that can help the situation and they have no vision to make it better or empathy for the situation.
I appreciate different cultures, but I can only shake my head at the lack of pride the people of Truk have for their island. And to make it worse, some of the fishermen still bomb the wrecks for fishing - destroying the one great asset they have - tourism.

 

[dherbman]

Why can't they all just get jobs and fix the place?

 

[Diver Dennis]

I was there in December and it's true about the money there but no different from many third world countries where there is such a huge chasm between rich and poor.

 

[divepix]

I have been to many third world countries as well, but in most of them the poor still seem to have pride in their land, homes and heritage. In Truk there doesn't seem to be any vision or leaders who are working to make the place any better. There is such a sense of "don't care", it is hard to explain.
I have spent a lot of time in Central and South America, Indonesia and other "poor" countries, but the situation in Truk is not just a gap between rich and poor. It is hard to explain. It appears to be a people just drifting through life with no apparent desire to make their home prosperous.
Yap and Palau have a similar history, people, and government, but they show many positive signs of advancement and achievement. They are pleasant places to visit. Not so, Truk (except for the diving).

 

[Cacia]

I have heard others say this too. Someone said there was despondancy...
corruption?

 

[Barracuda2]

Why can't they all just get jobs and fix the place?

From my observation, just about any decent employment in the islands is connected in some way with the wrecks in the lagoon. Dive opts, Blue Lagoon Resort, a couple of hotels, airport, etc. In about 80 to 100 yrs. maybe less, the wrecks will be either collapsed and/or grown over and not diveable or worth diving any more. What in the world will their economy be like then when it ceases to be the wreck diving mecca of the world? I spent one day touring some of the sites on the one of the islands and it is really sad.

 

[divepix]

Here is an example of how shortsighted they are:
There has never been an effort to preserve the artifacts that have been brought to the surface. All of the artifacts at the hotel, dive shop, etc. are rusting away outside or scattered here and there in an occassional glass cases poorly displayed.
Someone could have built a small building as a museum, gathered all the artifacts, photos, etc., charged $5-6 a head and everyone visiting there would have paid. That would generate $200-300 a week for someone, added something to the island, and helped preserve their history.

 

[astrocramp]

Divepix - I've been dreaming about Truk for some time now, and it looks like next year I will be going. Would you recommend the liveaboards or the Truk Stop? Also, should I cruise around a few different islands or stay at Truk? I'll have about 6-8 diving days - I'm really disappointed to hear about the island, i was hoping to roam around and enjoy the culture.

thanks-

 

[divepix]

The only reason you would want to do a land based trip to Truk would be budget constraints, and even that, when you consider the quality of the food, service, and number of dives and ease of diving, a liveaboard is the only way to go. Odyssey is by far the premier operator at this time in Truk, but if it is above your budget, do the Thorfinn.
There is a big difference in quality between Odyssey and Thorfinn, but do Throfinn rather than landbased if under budget restraints.
If you only have 7-8 nights, do Truk only, IMO. It is so unique, it is worth a full week.
You can do the other Micronesia locations (Palau, Yap, maybe Ponape) on another trip.They are great but other places are just as good or better in the Pacific, whereas, Truk is totally unique.
Have fun.

Oh, and by the way, 1/2 day of roaming around Truk (only go with a local guide) is more than enough.

 

[Tom Smedley]

I sat one night long ago listening to Chemio Aisek. I like to have my picture made with famous folks. I have an autographed picture of me and Sally. I almost got my picture made with Chemio but I was a few minutes late.

In the old days Chemio talked about being a teen ager in the late 30s and what he remembered about events leading up to the fateful day.

After World War I the pacific was divided amongst the allies against the Germans and the Territory of Truk was given to the Japanese. They built fishing factories and copra drying facilities and taught the Trukese how to process fish and copra and make a living at it. Unfortunately, they were also, under guise of these endeavors making tunnels and airfields and storing war materials. In 1936 Chemio says that a Japanese officer told him that Japan was preparing for war with the United States. Everyone on Truk was employed and the economy was stable. If you give a man a fish he will eat for a day, if you teach him to fish he will eat forever.

World War II came along and the United States won. They immediately put all the folks on the islands on the dole. There are warehouses on Truk that are filled with peanut butter. No Trukese will ever eat peanut butter. Everyone on Truk (now Chuuk) are employed either directly or indirectly with the government. In effect, the whole island is on the dole. For a long time the islands were "dry." I remember smuggling in liquor in mouthwash bottles and in Naval distribution. Drinking liquor and driving boats don't mix.

Later the government found that they could make money selling liquor to tourists. Now gangs of teens throw rocks at each other for entertainment. Someone said that they should get a job!! Why should they??