Trip report so far.....

[markb]

Hi all
Just did a week in Bali. Took a bit of advice from here and went straight to Padangbai. Had a look at the ops there, expensive I thought so I took a day or so to think about it and then had a word with the local guys at Nusa Dua Dive. Doesn't look much, a little place just opposite the jetty where the Gilli boats come and go every day, just off the 'square'. 2 Brothers, Wayan and Ketut, gave me the personal service that was real old school Bali. Often just me and one of them diving, including a personalised day trip to Tulumben (for what the other shops charge for local dives with 8+ people on the boat). Top class stuff, I won't bore you with everything we saw but it's the best diving I've done in terms of quality and service. These guys have been doing this since they were kids so they know the current better than the backpackers guiding at the other places.
Try warun jukung (on the road by the beach as you go toward the commercial port) for the best grilled fish.
Kerti hotel on the front has good rooms for 350 but got this down to 270ish for a few days stay.
Very quiet in the evenings!

In LBJ now, scuba junkies tomorrow hoping for great things! Any advice needed let me know.

Cheers
Mark

 

[iamrushman]

thanks for sharing your report.......

 

[markb]

Hello again

I arrived in Labuan Bajo by air. I was able to get a flight for 550k Rupiah BUT not without some stress. I booked online using the pay at ATM option. This gives you around 90 minutes to get to an ATM and use the transfer option to purchase. Of course my UK Visa debit card wouldn't work. I ended up asking someone to make the transfer for me and I gave them cash. It all worked out. A travel agent in town wanted 100k, so quite a saving. I would ask the people you are diving with to do this for you as most people in Bali are very happy to help you out. You just need to know what you are doing.
LBJ is a hot dusty dirty place but only a few minutes from the airport. Fixed price taxis can be booked there so stress free. It's about 60k (rupiah not kilometres!) to town. I initially went out of town with 2 German guys to a resort but didn't want to be that far out. I got a lift back and then had a look at 2 or 3 places before ending up at the L Bajo Hotel. I had a look at Centro Bajo Hotel which was better value but a long way out of town (hence the name). 425k fixed price for large air con (doesn't work very well) room, wifi only works in lobby. I gave the taxi driver 50k for ferrying me around for about 45 mins which he was happy with as I say everyone in indo seems to want you to be happy.
Breakfast toast and hot drink a bit basic.
. LBJ is a one way system - the hotel will order a moped rider or taxi to pick you up and take you wherever. Again fixed price so no stress. No bemmos at night.
There are some great warungs down by the fish market offering the usual fish dinners at night all looked great. I ended up going to an Italian place as I fancied a pizza. Underwhelming tbh.
There are lots of dive ops wanting your business but I decided to go out to scuba junkies as per original plan.
Organised this over email and got on the boat about 2pm. Next time I would have this organised, take an earlier flight and not bother staying in the town. Takes about an hour or so to get there. Stayed in a bale and did 9 dives over 3 days.
There are plenty of reviews on TA re the food etc. I had a great time, quite a young crowd but very friendly, the food is great, the diving as well. We saw the mantas at Mawan, plenty of sharks on most dives, reefs in great condition, lots of fish. Did a muck dive at Siaba Besar which was good although not really my scene. We went back there and realising that the two of us with the guide weren't enjoying it we went over to the reef so had a great dive anyway.
Some of the diving reminded me of the Red Sea back in the day and also some of the fish dives in Puerto Galera (PI) BUT there are more bigger fish here and sharks and mantas so I would have to say it is better and well worth the trip. We went to the northern and central sites. Crystal Rock was excellent, the cauldron/shotgun as well but we couldn't hook onto the reef which was a shame. There were some sites where we couldn't dive because of currents caused by the super moon (perfect timing on my part) and I was pleased that safety came first. At one site another boat had ended up with a 15 minute dive because of current.
I asked one of the local dive guides to book a flight for me as he was jumping boat and going for his day off in LBJ. He sorted this out through Ewan at the resort so I got back for 500k. Sweet.
Lydia and Ewan were running the resort (owners away for a few days) and were very helpful sorting things out. All the staff were great and I would definitely stay again. I think it's a far better option than staying in LBJ and personally I think it's a better option than a liveaboard. We saw the LBs at the same sites. Some of them look a bit small - I liked the space at the resort and the 1 to 2 hours there and back was worth it for me.
I met the dirt farmer (MATT) but sadly didn't dive with him. He was hoping to talk SJ to take the boat south so I hope to be reading his report about that - nice meeting you shame I was leaving as you arrived!
It's hard to say if diving one place is 'better' than another. Your rating of a place also changes over time, what might have been amazing after 30 dives might seem ordinary after 300. I would have to say that the diving here was consistently 8 to 10 out of ten.
In Bali I would say 7 to 8 with the jetty getting a 9. A great muck dive that turns into a fantastic fish dive among the schooling mackerel.
I spent a day or so in Sanur when I got back. Very quiet and dive trips over to Lembongan etc v expensive.
Will be going back to Padangbai for a day en route back to the uk so will try and squeeze a few dives in.
Currently in Perth WA. Haven't been able to snorkel as the water is too stirred up at the moment. Diving too expensive for me here.
Hope this has been of some use. Any questions re travel practicalities etc please fire away.

Cheers
Mark