Trip Report: Raja Ampat on the WAOW Liveaboard

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We didn't go all the way north to Wayag - the cruise director said the diving wasn't good up there and people only went for the photo op on the island, which was a waste of 2 days. We went only as far north as Kawe, then down to Fam, then south to Misool, and finally back up to the Dampier Straight.
 
We had heard that Raja Ampat has great marine life diversity. I’m sure it must, but we didn’t see it. Pretty corals and pretty reef fish, but just the same ones over and over again. We saw few – in many cases none – of many of the critters we typically do in Asia: frogfish, leaf scorpionfish, blue ribbon eels, ghost pipefish, cuttlefish, turtles, blue spotted rays, etc, etc. Even scorpionfish, lionfish, and moray eels were in surprisingly short supply. We had expected to see all the usual cast of characters plus more, and in this regard we were quite disappointed.

It always boggles my mind to hear someone having a bad trip to Raja Ampat. But according to what you were looking for, why didn't you just go to Lembeh? Raja Ampat is known for its huge schools of fish and amazing coral gardens. There are a couple of muck dives in the north and they ARE world class if you have a good guide, but that is not really why people dive Raja Ampat. I would say 50 ft vis is pretty typical. If you get more, it is rare. I guess the liveaboard really dropped the ball on reading currents, but diving current is pretty typical in Raja Ampat, hence the large fish congregations.
 
I listed some specific stuff on the reef that we didn't see, but we didn't see many impressive schools of fish either. Didn't see big schools of bumphead parrotfish, bigeye jacks, or barracuda like in Sipadan. We've seen bigger schools of sweetlips and snappers in Australia. Didn't see as many mantas as in Thailand or the Big Island. It wasn't a shark mecca like Galapagos or French Polynesia. It's not a place for whale sharks or other big pelagics. In sum, in our opinion, nothing distinctive.

Did a North Sulawesi liveaboard as well, 5 years ago. That was a nice trip, but the diving wouldn't make my top 10 list.

To each their own, perhaps. :)
 
Shark mecca, not in Asia. And certainly not in Raja Ampat. Sharks have been fished out for some time. And Big Pelagics; someone misinformed you I guess.

I'm a little confused about what you do want to see though. You say you are after a diverse range of critters and North Sulawesi does not make top 10? What does then?

Weird not seeing many mantas, but I guess that's the luck of the draw. There were 11 on one dive at Manta Sandy when I went. One of the best dives+ trips I have ever done, granted I have not been to the Galapagos or French Polynesia.

Don't mean to argue the point but it seems false expectations and an inexperienced LOB may be the culprits.
 
I didn't expect any pelagics save the mantas. That's why I was expecting more diversity on the reef itself, more cool critters, more impressive schools of fish. And my trip fell short in that regard.

I'd say my top three dive trips have been to Galapagos, French Polynesia, and Sipadan, and I'm hard pressed to rank them in any particular order because all were different but great!

It's not about right or wrong; there are some objective facts about a location ("it's known for currents" or "the viz here is usually amazing" or "turtles abound"), but diving is very much a subjective experience.
 
We didn't go all the way north to Wayag - the cruise director said the diving wasn't good up there and people only went for the photo op on the island, which was a waste of 2 days.

There are a couple of muck dives in the north and they ARE world class if you have a good guide, but that is not really why people dive Raja Ampat.

So this is an interesting question. What do people consider the best dives or signature dive sites in Raja? Besides the oft-photographed Boo Windows (if that's even on the list) and the manta sites (not unique to Raja)?

On my earlier trip the excellent Indonesian DMs said they felt Misool was the best diving. We never made it there so I don't know.
 
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It's not about right or wrong; there are some objective facts about a location ("it's known for currents" or "the viz here is usually amazing" or "turtles abound"), but diving is very much a subjective experience.

Of course it is totally a subjective experience. But some "objective facts" (I'm not sure I'd use this term, maybe reliable observations?) apply to Raja Ampat as well. The coral is off the charts! Especially in the Misool region. These are some of, if not THE best coral gardens in the world. This is what you should expect when diving here. Secondly some of the sites such as Cape Kri, have so many fish and so many kinds, it is easy to lose sight of your dive group. If you did not experience this then I think you had some bad luck. I lost sight of my buddy in the fish soup at Cape Kri and it was slack tide! I would hope this is what most people would experience from a dive trip at Raja. 50 feet of vis is certainly enough to witness this.

This is an excerpt from a trip report I wrote a couple years ago and basically describes my entire trip, if yours was not like this, I am sorry:

"Despite the claims of no sharks in RA I was surprised to see six black and white tip reef sharks almost immediately. Other highlights of our first dive were two mantas, (12ft and 6ft) a Wobbegong shark, four blue spotted stingrays, Big Napolean Wrasse, Giant trevally, huge batfish in small schools and several Barramundi Cod that would dive under bommies when a diver approached. The barramundi sighting would be a regular occurrence on almost every dive and I remember seeing a very large one the size of a small dinner table that would not come out of its hiding place.
On the second dive a huge marble ray the size of a large dinner table swam right through our dive group. It was soon followed by an eagle ray that swooped by as we perused an amazing sloping wall of soft corals and giant sea fans. A group of Juvenille Batfish was found among the millions of glass fish hanging around the lettuce corals. Another Wobbegong shark, a large school of yellow line snapper and a larger school of juvenile barracuda ended our dive after an hour.
I will refrain from boring the reader with descriptions from my dive logs but I wanted to make clear that this was the typical underwater experience we had on our trip; something rare and amazing was found about every five minutes of the dive. "

---------- Post added January 30th, 2013 at 04:48 PM ----------

So this is an interesting question. What do people consider the best dives or signature dive sites in Raja? Besides the oft-photographed Boo Windows (if that's even on the list) and the manta sites (not unique to Raja)?

On my earlier trip the excellent Indonesian DMs said they felt Misool was the best diving. We never made it there so I don't know.


For me it was Sardine reef, Cape Kri, Pearl Farm Pier (macro + HUGE school of resident scads), The passage, Manta Sandy

In the south it was, Nudi Rock, Boo Windows, Kaleidescope,... and I know I'm forgetting one... or two... or four :)

---------- Post added January 30th, 2013 at 05:11 PM ----------

Raja Ampat is very remote and there are still many other places in the world to dive, so that was probably it for us. We're still interested in giving the other half of the island (PNG) a try, though. :)

Oh and by the way, PNG is very much like Raja Ampat. In my opinion both are amazing, but what you get in certain parts of PNG, like the outer islands of Kimbe Bay and Kavieng, are SHARKS. There are some sights with huge schools of Barracuda+ Jacks and the coral is, like Raja, incredible. I can definitely recommend the MV FEBRINA's signature Itinerary. If you are not happy with this trip, I really don't know what tot tell you.
 
Very sorry your experience of R4 is not to your expectation. I believe the key factors is the knowledge of the area.
We visited R4 end of Dec.2012, with Kri eco, and quite impressed - never see in my approx. 500 dives so many things in the water from tinny pontohi, eagle ray, turtles, mass coral destruction by big squadron of massive bumphead, Baracudas, black tip to grey sharks. Practically we saw sharks almost every where though not in the big number. Indeed the viz is not excelent, but already know that, as well as the strong current.
On othe night dive at Yenbuba jetty we saw 2 wobegong, 3 crocodilefish, bobtail, bluering, and bobtail.
We're a bit "dissapointed" to see 9 mantas only since other group visited manta sandy a day before us saw at least 12. That's the problem, we became so greedy.
Our favorite sites are chicken bay, cape kri, mike point, sardine reef, airborek, blue magic, manta sandy, yenbuba jetty and the house reef around the jetty ( we did 1 night dive and 1 saturday morning dive). No chance to sisit the passage at that time.
I'm very happy with local papuan guide assigned to us, very experience and helpfull, not only they check the tide table, carefuly timed the diving, but will jump to the water to check the site first. There's 3 ocassion when we had to change the location, first, the current was too strong - and the other two due to no current at all which result no fish. Funny thing, when left the site we saw the WAOW tender arrived and dropped their divers.
Note We saw WAOW boat in the Kri area for few days.
 
Thanks for your candid review Susan. I was in Raja at the similar time you were there - on the Indo Siren 2-12 Jan. Im not sure if you read my report but we did Misool followed by Dampier Strait. Ive had time for the dust to settle and though Raja wasnt my best trip ever, it was certainly very enjoyable - the diving was good to very good in relation to other places that Ive been to and thats very many all around the asia pacific and indonesia. What I liked was the macro diversity amongst the reef slopes. I could have just had my 60mm on the whole trip...apart from manta sandy of course. We had some average conditions with cloud/rain in the first leg which probably didnt help the great soft corals around misool. (yes the viz was down as well) However we had better conditions up north in Dampier St with some awesome current diving fish shows - and SUN! But the trip was more than just the diving. I was fortunate to have an overall great group of divers on board the boat (luck of the draw eh?). And that was in part aided by very experienced cruise director, and great crew on board to look after us very well. And that is what made the trip 'whole'. Despite at times the diving wasnt to what we expected based on rave reviews, the sum of all of this plus the fantastic topside made it worthwile.
 
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To add to the list of top sites, I would also include:

- In the North: Blue Magic, Melissa Garden, Eagle rock, Citrus ridge - Agree that Sardine is fantastic, as well as Cape Kri and Pearl Farm Pier (fantastic night dive, and I dont like night dives)

- In the South: Magic Mountain, Tank Rock, Whale Rock, Barracuda Point, Razor Point and many others !

Going back on my fourth trip in March :)
 
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