Trip Report: Nekton Pilot Bahamas

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DiveMaven

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Location
Kihei, Maui & Vancouver, WA
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Part 1

We left early on Saturday morning for our 2-week back-to-back trip on the Nekton Pilot to NW Bahamas and Cay Sal Banks. Our plane was delayed, but Jeff in the Nekton van picked us up at the airport and we were able to get dinner before meeting everyone at the liquor store and Publix to buy sodas, beer, etc. After shopping, we were taken to the Pilot and she looked exactly the same as 18 months ago in Belize.

Once on board, we went to our cabin to unpack and settle in. We were pleased to note that not only Capt. Ephey was still captain and on-board, but Arminda was still the chef and Leslie was the steward. Everyone else was different, and there were 3 new crew members who had been on the boat for a week or less.

After a boat briefing and lifejacket drill, we put to sea. We hung out for a little while on deck, then in the lounge talking with folks. We went to bed and slept well during the easy crossing to the Bahamas.

Sunday, July 1, 2007

After breakfast, we went up on the sun deck to look around at the scenery and wait for the dive briefing. Tyler led the briefing and explained about the dive deck, the tanks, etc., all things we remembered from our Belize trip.

We finally got to dive on a site called Indian Cay. We were to do one dive there, then the boat would move to Scoto’s Reef, which was about 2 hours north. They put a couple of safety divers in the water with us to help people check buoyancy, and I think to check out people’s diving ability. There was a strong current at the top but once we descended, there was only a slight current, so the dive was easy and a lot of fun. We immediately went to the coral heads and began searching for macro critters. We weren't disappointed by all the Pederson Cleaner Shrimp, Yellowline Arrow Crabs, and Spotted Cleaner Shrimp we discovered. There was also an abundance of marine life and we knew that we were likely to see just about every fish in the ID book in the next two weeks.

During lunch (and after) the boat moved to a site called Scoto’s Reef. Again, it was a good reef to find all sorts of macro creatures, and was teeming with just about every tropical fish in the book. We also saw our first free swimming Caribbean Reef Shark of the trip, and that was super cool. He was about 4’ long and just cruised the reef, not caring that we were there at all. We’re looking forward to swimming with sharks more as the trip goes on.

Dinner was Prime Rib and the first of many excellent meals in our future by Arminda!

Monday, July 3, 2007

The boat moved to a sand flat area looking for dolphins for everyone to play with. It took about an hour of driving around in circles for the dolphins to show up, but when they did, everyone jumped in and attempted to entertain them to keep them around for awhile. At first there were only 3 Spotted dolphins, but a short time later 5 more arrived. After everyone was tired from snorkeling, we left for a site called Sugar Wreck.

The weather thus far has been typical for this area, sunshine, occasional rain, thunder, and lightening and we’ve seen all of those things. Strangely enough, during the 2 hour trip to the site, the boat was struck by lightening! We were in our cabin trying to nap when we heard what sounded like a mortar going off outside our windows. We immediately looked outside and all we saw was a huge puff of black smoke hanging in the air. We went out to the salon to see what happened and just as we though, they said that lightening had struck close by. We didn’t think the boat had been hit, but later when we went on deck, Capt. Ephey pointed out the antennas on the pilot house, showing that they had been hit and were charred at the end. The lightening knocked out 2 radios, the satellite phone, fried some gauges, and knocked the engines off line for awhile. Capt. Ephey told us that in all his years of working on boats, this was just the third time a boat he was on had been struck by lightening. Capt. Ephey got the engines back on-line after about 30 minutes of checking everything to make sure it was safe to continue, and we arrived at the Sugar Wreck a little over an hour later.

Our first dive on Sugar Wreck was all about looking for different types of fish and scouting the lay of the land. Strangely, the Arrow Crabs and cleaner shrimp that are so common on other sites aren’t to be found here. The crew thinks that may be because there are too many fish and the macro critters simply get eaten. The site has more fish than you’d be able to count, as well as all sorts of feather duster worms, flamingo tongues everywhere, and more juvenile fish than is believable. There are also Pacific Lionfish to be found. Nobody knows how the Lionfish got here, but there were two on this wreck and they were spectacular. We were able to take pictures of them on both dives but during the second dive we were alone in the water and were able to set up shots better, eliminate any silting, and my husband could take his own time to get the shots he wanted.

After two 1 hour dives, we were ready for dinner and to relax for awhile before our first ever night dive. At about 8:00 the dive deck was open and we were the first in the water for the night dive. We were fortunate enough to drop right in on 2 southern sting rays and swim with them for awhile. My husband decided to leave his camera behind since he didn’t want to task load on his first night dive, and although it was the smart thing to do, it was sad that he missed some great pictures. The critters definitely changed at night, with oodles of little snails and crabs crawling around everywhere.

At the end of our night dive and on our way to the boat, we again encountered 3-4 southern sting rays, ranging from huge to small. While waiting to board the boat, another diver told us to look in the water as there was a large squid swimming about. We immediately looked and watched what appeared to be about a 10” squid cruising near the surface. He was very pretty and it was our first squid sighting. This trip is definitely turning into one of many firsts for us. I boarded the boat and as soon as I headed toward our bench, I noticed a flying fish flopping on the deck! I immediately picked him up and threw him back into the water immediately, and hopefully he survived his traumatic ordeal….but it was another first for me!

Tuesday, July 03, 2007

Our first site was Theo’s Wreck, which is an old cement carrier that was sunk to make an artificial reef and dive site. The cargo hold was cut completely open so it’s safe to penetrate the wreck and snoop around inside. There wasn’t an abundant amount of life on the wreck, but the one thing we found a large quantity of were arrow crabs! Some of them were extremely large for their species, and my husband had fun taking pictures of them.

Our second site was Shark Alley. It was a disappointing site in that everything was covered with sand and algae and dead looking. We did manage to find three large Reef Sharks (4-6&#8217:wink: and a large Nurse Shark (5-6&#8217:wink:, as well as a couple of very pretty Spotted eels. We hadn’t planned on night diving here, but even if we had, we would have skipped it. The site just wasn’t that much fun to dive.

Wednesday, July 4, 2007

The dive site this morning was Rocky Mt. High. It wasn’t a bad site, but visibility was poor at 30-40 feet. There were a lot of Yellow Headed Jawfish in the sand, conch, blue and orange tunicates, quite a few Pederson cleaner shrimp, as well as the usual tropical fish. It was a small site, so with everyone in the water it tended to get crowded. We cut our surface interval a little shorter so we could get in the water before everyone, and we basically had the site to ourselves for about 30minutes before the big group that always dove together showed up.

It was a 3 hour boat trip to the Hesperus Wreck, so we took a nap, watched a movie, read, and just generally hung out. When we got there, two Blackbeard’s boats were on the site, and although one moved off within a few minutes, the captain of the other one was new and said he was uncomfortable with the Pilot being moored only 40 feet away from his boat. Captain Ephey knew he would encounter this captain again, so agreed to stay off the mooring until the other boat moved off. That gave us an additional hour to relax, getting us in the water just before dinner and basically limiting us to one afternoon dive. I was disappointed at first, but once we were able to dive and see the site, it was clear that it’s really a one day dive and one night dive site.

The highlight of this dive for me was the Lionfish, the MANY Southern Stingrays we saw, and the juvenile spotted drum. Unfortunately, the camera seemed to be malfunctioning so we didn’t get good pictures of the lionfish nor the drum. The site was definitely too small to need to stay down forever, so we were back on board after making two circles around the wreck, taking only 45 minutes.

For the night dive, we had to wait until the Blackbeards boats finished, which put us in the water at 10pm. One passenger convinced Capt. Ephey that there were quite a few folks who weren’t going to dive, thus we didn’t need two groups. Capt. Ephey agreed and sent everyone to the dive deck. Unfortunately, they were wrong….about 20 people wanted to night dive, making the site very crowded. I found a free swimming Lionfish out in the sand, which my husband got some good pictures off. He also found some cool Giant Hermit Crabs, and Clinging Channel Crabs out on patrol. We also saw two huge Loggerhead Turtles, but the Blood Worms were out in force and the pictures didn’t turn out well. After almost 30 minutes of getting battered by the blood worms, I called the dive.
 
Part 2

Thursday, July 5, 2007

First dive today was at Hawksbill. The conditions were okay, though viz wasn’t great and there was a slight current. We pretty much found the usual tropical fish, including many, many juveniles. I finally got a cleaner shrimp to clean my fingers, only to find out that one of them was a Snap Shrimp and could have inflicted a nasty cut on my finger. He snapped my fingernail a couple of times, probably trying to loosen it up, and after the second snap, I decided I was clean! On our second dive at Hawksbill, we found an enormous green moray eel, must have been at least 6-8’ long. His head was as big as a softfall…we’ve never seen an eel that big before. We also found two Scorpionfish on this dive. It was the first Scorpionfish we had seen on this trip, and after seeing one we were totally shocked and pleased to see the second one a short time later.

We moved to The Strip next, and during the first dive, my husband was trying to get photographs of an Spotted Moray, and it turns out his fins were right over the nest of a Sgt. Major. The Sgt. Major was extremely agitated and was trying to drive my husband away by biting his fins, which my husband hadn't a clue was happening. I was laughing so hard I had to hold my mask on so I would flood it! Then we saw a free swimming Hawksbill turtle. Our second dive was similar to the first, finding a couple of spotted eels, some macro creatures, and the typical reef tropical fish. This time my husband took off a fin to bait the Sgt. Major while he took pictures of him attacking the fin in defense of his nest.

Friday, July 6, 2007

Had a huge storm roll in over night with the rain pelting the windows and the lightening lighting up the room, while thunder clapped loudly in the distance. First dive today was Victory Reef and the current was up. There really wasn’t much to see on this site except the usual fish and critters, but it was still a nice dive anyway.

Tuna Alley was the next site and also had quite a bit of current for the first dive, making it difficult to really find and photograph critters. The current was strong enough that in order to stay in one place, you had to frog kick. If you wanted to move forward, you needed to flutter kick. By the second dive, the current had laid down a little and we were able to explore a little easier. We were two of the first in the water for the second dive and my husband almost immediately found a fairly large octopus in a hole under the boat. He got some pictures of it, but it wasn’t in any mood to come out and play. We moved on and I saw a giant anemone which prompted me to look closer for macro critters. I saw two tiny spotted shrimp, and although my husband tried, he wasn’t able to photograph them successfully.

That was the end of our first week, and the trip to FLL was uneventful, but took all night.

Saturday, July 7, 2007

We got through Customs and Immigration and were shuttled to the airport to pick up our rental car. We spent the day in Fort Lauderdale, picked our friend up at the airport, then it was back to the boat. Once back on the boat, we stowed the things we had purchased and went to fill out paperwork for Customs and Immigration. The boat briefing was soon after we were exempt from participating since we had heard it all, so we hung out on the sun deck and watched as we left port.

Week 2, Cay Sal Banks

Sunday, July 08, 2007

Started off the day with a dive at Tuna Alley. Since we had been there a couple of days earlier, we had a dive plan to take us where we didn’t really explore The current was swift at the surface, but better as we dropped to 50+ feet. After about 10 minutes, the current began to pick up and we were forced to duck into the swim thrus to avoid it. At about 30 minutes into the dive, I was sick of fighting the current and called the dive.

After our safety stop, we drifted (quickly) back to the dive platform, where we found that a diver had come back up and was hurt. We weren’t sure if he had DCI or something else, but the crew was getting ready to get him on the skiff and into Cat Cay so the USCG could airlift him back to Miami. Instead Capt. Ephey was notified by the USCG that they wanted him to begin to head toward Miami where they could meet him along the way, and could airlift him off the boat.

Since the helicopter was going to hover above the sun deck, we were required to clear the deck of everything and lash things together under the awnings so they wouldn’t move. We found out that soon after getting down to depth, the diver pointed to his chest and aborted the dive going back onto the boat to get help. He managed to get out of the water himself, but was disoriented and didn’t know his name or what had happened. When the crew moved him onto the sun deck to wait for the helicopter they kept him on oxygen and began reviewing his medication, giving him some aspirin in case he was having a heart attack. Regardless, his vacation was cut very short as he was going to the hospital no matter what. After about an hour, he was responsive and feeling much better, but he was kept on the oxygen and was managed by a passenger (EMT) and crew member until the helicopter arrived.

Everyone moved off of the sun deck in anticipation of the helicopter arriving to airlift the injured diver to Miami. Arminda served lunch and everyone sat down to eat. During lunch the helicopter arrived and picked up the injured diver using their basket. It took them no more than 10 minutes to get the diver and be on their way.

Capt. Ephey moved the boat to our next dive site, which was Victory Reef. The current here was very strong on the surface, but once you got down below 25 feet it slowed and we were able to explore without much effort. We pretty much saw the same things as we had the previous week and since Victory Reef wasn’t our favorite then, we just snooped around and enjoyed diving.

Monday, July 9, 2007

Sites today were Last Chance and Playground. Last Chance had a little current and the viz wasn’t that great, but it was a healthier reef than the previous ones. We dropped down under the boat and I noticed a Conch shell out in the sand and decided to explore what might be living in it. Much to my surprise I found two Golden Coral Shrimp living there! They aren’t too common so it was a great find. We also finally found another Juvenile Spotted Drum, which we had been trying to find all week. We also found some pretty Painted Tunicates and more Yellow Stingrays
 
Part 3

After lunch, we dove at Playground. It’s a “J” shaped site where there isn’t much current and there are a lot of critters and fish to be found. We found quite a few huge lobsters hanging out under the rock ledges, many cleaner shrimp, and we found a tiny Anemone crab hiding out inside a Giant anemone. He was so tough to see and even harder to photograph, but we got the shots. We did two dives of over an hour each here then had about a 3 hour surface interval before our night dive. The night dive turned out to be a dusk/night dive, which was pretty cool. We saw 3 huge lobsters right away, quite a lot of reef fish, and a beautiful Giant Basket Star that was almost completely unfurled. It was an enjoyable dive and we got back on board the boat before the blood worms came out in force

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

After steaming all night, we arrived at Cay Sal Bank, and the Big Hole. The Big Hole is where the sharks are since that’s where the feeding will take place tomorrow morning. We suited up quickly after the briefing and were the first in the water with the sharks. We immediately saw three or four circling near us, and as we moved off, they came with us to the feeding buoy. At one point we had six sharks swimming near us, and were able to swim next to them and see them close up. Viz wasn’t great, but apparently it was as good as it ever gets for our dive, so that was okay.

The afternoon brought us to Silversides, a hole where there’s a swim thru full of little silver fish. The hole starts at about 90’ and goes down to 110’ so we had to watch our gauges and our depth so we didn’t exceed our MOD. This site reminds us a lot of Belize, though it doesn’t have as much marine life nor does it have the viz that Belize has. The swim thru was really neat with all the little silver fish, and the reef on top of the hole was full of hard and soft corals, sea fans, sponges, and schools of fish.

Wednesday, July 11, 2007

We were informed during our dive briefing that the nitrox membrane was having problems, thus we wouldn’t likely get nitrox again for the rest of the week. My first tank was at about 30%, but my second was down to 24%, so it looks like air was in our future.

Our first dive site today was Lady’s Secret. It’s a hole about 150’ across and had a few neat swim thrus and the rim is dotted with coral heads. I did one swim thru that started at about 70’ and ended at 120’. It was the type of hole that you really don’t swim thru, you just drop through it like a parachutist. At first I wasn’t going to go into it after I watched another diver drop into it and sit at the entrance for a long time. I wasn’t sure it went through at first, but when I watched a DM take another dive through, I knew that it was the right hole. We found quite a few lobsters on this dive, and many different types of fish. It was a fun site to explore and dive.

During lunch we left to get back to the Big Hole to do a shark feeding. It is a 2.5 hour trip back, so we’ll have our dive briefing along the way so we all know what to do during the feeding. Once we’re done with that, the boat will move to Sistine Chapel for one afternoon and the night dive. It’s nice to have a really long surface interval to off gas before our afternoon dives.

We arrived at the Big Hole and the shark feeding was rather interesting overall. As soon as we all were kneeling near the feeding line, the sharks knew what was coming. They acted completely differently than the day before when we had been diving with them. They’re definitely not stupid creatures since they clearly know the difference between a regular dive at the hole and a feeding dive.

Once we were all seated, they dropped the frozen fish on the chain and the sharks began a feeding frenzy. Unfortunately, the visibility was poor, so we couldn’t see much more than the outline of the feeding sharks about 30’ above our heads. Once they were mostly done eating the fish, they began cruising back and forth and around us. It was a great opportunity to see these powerful creatures up close and Lars was able to get some really nice photographs.

Ironically, after the huge briefing and waiver signing, it was a crew member who was bitten by a shark! He took a shiny silver stick down to ward them off, and while holding it to his body, a shark mistakened it for a barracuda, which is what we were feeding them. The shark went straight into Ben’s chest to get the shiny stick and nicked Ben’s hand with his teeth. Another crew member, Doc, stitched up the wound later that day and Ben was pretty proud of his wound all day. He’ll have a story to tell for the rest of his life…and he won’t ever be taking that silver stick back in the water with sharks!

Our next dive site was Sistine Chapel and it was another smallish blue hole. The main feature of this hole was the overhang at about 100’ that you could drop down to and see the sponges hanging like stalactites from the ceiling. They were pretty cool to see, but the best part of the hole to us was that the rim of the reef was at about 20’, so it made a really nice spot to off gas and take a very long safety stop. We enjoyed diving the walls of the blue holes as they reminded us a lot of Belize.

Thursday, July 12, 2007

Morning dive site were two drift dives over a wall that started at 80’ and plunged into the abyss. It was rather wild doing a live boat dive from a boat as big as the Pilot, but it worked beautifully. On the first dive we saw a shark, a grouper, and two huge Parrotfish, all from a lofty 60’ above them. On the second dive, we saw a turtle and the Parrotfish again, and this time my husband dove down to get pictures of them. At the beginning of the second dive, we went down to about 120 feet to see what was on the wall, but quickly came up to around 65’ to extend the dive time a little more.


The afternoon found us at Water Cay where there was a plane wreck to find and a lagoon to explore. It was a shallow site, so we enjoyed poking around in the coral heads, and especially liked the clear, pristine lagoon. We actually got 3 dives here before we had to be back on board, so that was rather fun. There were a lot of juvenile fish everywhere on this site and everywhere we looked there was something new to see.

Friday, July 13, 2007

The morning found us at Hawksbill where we enjoyed 2 dives looking for all the critters we saw the week prior. We did find one of the Scorpion fish again and someone else found the other one. He didn’t seem very excited about being seen and tried to move away to hide from us, but we weren’t about to let him out of our sight for a second. It was neat to see him flash the warning colors on his fins when he moved, and we got many good picture of him before leaving him alone.

The afternoon at the Strip turned out to be one of the best dives we had all week. We were two of the first who dropped in, and right when we got to the bottom, I noticed a Hammerhead Shark swimming by, right under the boat! I immediately started screaming into my reg for my husband to look and take a picture, and once he turned and saw the shark, he immediately turned his camera on. Unfortunately, it was slow to power up and he only got one shot…but at least he got it so we could prove we saw him. Everyone on board wanted to see our picture of the Hammerhead, and we were both so pleased to have seen him and share his picture. The afternoon had us have an up close and personal experience with a Hawksbill turtle. We also saw our first Broadbanded Moray, and he was really cool to see.

Unfortunately, all good things must end sooner or later, and after our 47th dive, we broke down our gear and began rinsing things. It was an amazing two weeks full of adventure and interesting things. As has been our experience on the Nekton boats, the food was fabulous, the room was always cleaned mid-morning, there was an abundance of snacks, and the company of the other divers was excellent.

We'll definitely be back, and will likely do another back-to-back, but this time in Belize.
 
Great report! I have fond memories of my Nekton trip with Capt. Ephey late last summer to NW Bahamas to some of the same dive sites. Highlight of the trip for us was that we had about 30 - 40 dolphins swim with us at White Sands, and the huge turtles on the night dive at the Hesperus wreck.

Just returned last week from CoCoView in Roatan, and hope to post a trip report soon!

Dive safe!
 
Thanks for the report. I was looking forward to the Cay Sal trip next year BEFORE your report. Now all I can hope is that time flies ...

Sorry to hear that a diver had a problem. We had a similar situation on our Caymans trip with Nekton earlier this year.
 
At least he had DAN insurance (not sure what level), and it was a good lesson to everyone on the boat to make sure they also had DAN.
 
Nice detailed report! I am heading out September 15th on the Rorqual for the NW Bahamas. Did Belize in Feb 2007 aboard the Pilot and Cayman Islands last Sept 2006 aboard Rorqual. I am trying to get two Nekton trips in each year. :D

Bonaire - Trip Jan 2008!
 
:D FABULOUS report!!! And you got in 47 dives, too. That rocks. I can't wait to see the pictures. :D

It sounds like your Cay Sal experience was almost exactly like ours. It is so very interesting to see your first "real" sharks and then by the end of the week you aren't really even paying attention to them anymore. LOL I have got to say, NEKTON rocks!!! The crew and convenience of diving can't be beat. Waaaaaaa, I wanna go back!!!:eyebrow:

so get busy working on those photos!!!


robint
 
We've actually done a shark dive in the Bahamas prior to this trip, and have been around sharks enough that this experience was super thrilling. On the other hand, seeing the Hammerhead.......THAT was thrilling!!!

But I'd be lying if I said that it wasn't super cool to be swimming with so many sharks at the Big Hole the day before the feeding. Because of your great advice Robin, we were first in the water and were able to swim with at least 5-6 sharks and at very close range. I loved being able to swim next to them and see them at close range. They are magnificent creatures and I'm a big fan.

Oh yeah, the pictures are labeled and resized...now I just have to sort through and take out the best ones for uploading to a photo album here.
 
DiveMaven:
We've actually done a shark dive in the Bahamas prior to this trip, and have been around sharks enough that this experience was super thrilling. On the other hand, seeing the Hammerhead.......THAT was thrilling!!!

But I'd be lying if I said that it wasn't super cool to be swimming with so many sharks at the Big Hole the day before the feeding. Because of your great advice Robin, we were first in the water and were able to swim with at least 5-6 sharks and at very close range. I loved being able to swim next to them and see them at close range. They are magnificent creatures and I'm a big fan.

Oh yeah, the pictures are labeled and resized...now I just have to sort through and take out the best ones for uploading to a photo album here.
that advice came from guys who did the trip with us... they had done it before and so they pulled us aside that am and told us to stand in the back and put on our wetsuits and booties while the DM gave the site briefing. The 4 of us were ready when they said "pools open" so we all dashed to the dive deck. NO one else was in the water for the first 10 minutes and the 4 of us had the sharks all to ourselves. It was sooooooo coool. :D
Once the other 16 divers on the boat jumped in, the sharks spread out more and some left completely. It was nice to have over a dozen 5-6' sharks hang with us for so long.
 
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