Trip Report Trip Report: Cayman Aggressor IV, April 28-May 5, 2018

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First of all, that was a very comprehensive and useful review, thanks.
As to non-diving factors, Grand Cayman is very developed and there is a large non-diving expat community (mostly business folks in the financial services and related industries) who demand a quality of life that you might not find on other islands - again that may or may not be what you are looking for. So there are some of the best restaurants in the Caribbean and almost no bad places to eat, lots of live music, live theater, a movie theater, an outstanding beach (SMB), educational institutions (I'm a musician and both teach and take lessons at the local music school), community events, good (non-tourist) shopping, and great snorkeling. My wife does not dive, so these are even more important to her.

Thank you for your feedback and your input.

I have gotten the sense, as you suggested, that the more “First World” terrestrial environment of Grand Cayman is a significant factor in its appeal. While I can see why such an environment may be more comfortable for many North Americans or Europeans than the less developed environments of many other destinations, it is not a significant issue for me, and I actually enjoyed traveling in Third World countries long before I became a diver. Personally, I preferred the terrestrial environments of Cozumel, Curaçao, and Puerto Galera in the Philippines, as they have certain forms of entertainment that I enjoy, and I preferred their local cultures in general.
 
Appreciate your thorough, analytical, critical but balanced review. Taken with others for a broader perspective, should be quite helpful to people researching it as a trip option. After all, you don't just take a trip to a given destination; you take it instead of another option. Probably spending precious (& limited) vacation time and money. I'd like to follow up some points:

1.) I did the same trip, in May 2016; we hit 3 G.C. sites, headed to L.C. & did 18 total dives there, + 2 Keith Tibbetts wreck dives at C.B., for a total of 25 dives. We saw more sharks and I perceived it as fairly 'fishy.' That's relative, and I plan to talk about later.

2.) I did the Belize live-aboard route via Sun Dancer 2 (a.k.a. Belize Aggressor IV) May 2015; we didn't run aground, and did most of our 26 dives in the desirable regions; we only did 2 elsewhere, at the southern part of Turneffe Atoll, on our way back in. Thus my trip report reads differently from yours, and @Trailboss123's late April 2018 report differs from both of ours. I thought the outer atolls region of Belize was pretty comparable to my Cayman diving, but with more personable wildlife (e.g.: Nassau groupers at both; some on Little Cayman we could touch if so inclined).

3.) This surprised me:

The marine life nonetheless left much to be desired and, with several major exceptions, was often underwhelming, even by Caribbean standards.

4.) On the issue of land-based cost:

Prices for potential terrestrial trip options in the Cayman Islands were another matter. I had heard that the Cayman Islands were expensive, but I had thought that it meant “expensive by Caribbean standards,” not “expensive by New York and London standards.”

There are decent budget options. If you don't need 7 Mile Beach, Turtle Nest Inn has some nice package deals. A group with one of my old instructors has a Sunset House 1-week trip for October priced as low as $1,175; that doesn't include car rental, but there's a shuttle and you can shore dive. For a solo diver, considering cost & # of dives, an on-sale live-aboard can be hard to beat. Often cheaper airfare to G.C. should also factor into total trip cost comparisons such as with Bonaire.

5.) Topside:

Beyond the high prices that I found hard to justify, I anticipated that the conservative culture of the Cayman Islands would probably be unappealing to me, and that the lack of terrestrial activities and attractions, beyond offshore banking and Cuban cigars, would bore me to tears. I can deal with expensive, and I can deal with boring, but I cannot deal with both expensive and boring at the same time.

Not sure what you want to do that'd have the locals up in arms? G.C. is a popular cruise ship port, and I imagine has a # of excursions. On a cruise stop we enjoyed a dolphin encounter (yes, the issue of marine mammal exploitation is contentious and controversial) and turtle farm (likewise), but I imagine there are other things to do. Hard to imagine Bonaire's topside is more 'happening' (I've been to Bonaire 8 times).

6.) Bahamas Aggressor:

Given some of the reviews of the Bahamas Aggressor that I have read, that would not surprise me. If I did a liveaboard trip in the Bahamas, I would go on the more highly regarded AquaCat or Juliet.)

Don't throw them under the bus too fast. I've seen good reviews, too. If you're an Undercurrent subscriber, there's a Jan. 2018 article. Not all Bahamas live-aboard options offer the same # of dives in a week, and a late winter big Aggressor sale could make the B.A. very tempting...even if you don't consider the Tiger Beach itinerary option part of the year.

7.) I wonder if they are often a 'beginner live-aboard option?' I think they'd make a fine one.

Overall, the crew clearly runs a very tight ship, and one of my few criticisms of their operational style would be that sometimes it was a bit too tight. I understand that liveaboards have a lot of do's and don'ts for both safety and comfort reasons, but this crew seemed to have a lot more don'ts, the rationales for which sometimes seemed unclear or questionable.

8.) Many divers appreciate these videos as something to share with friends & family back home, and remember the trip, vs. a video of a wildlife documentary alone. It wouldn't have been so important to me, except that our little girl likes to watch them. She'd ask to watch my scuba video, and often point at the screen and ask "Where's you?" (when I didn't show up enough). There's a trade-off vs. a more dedicated critter spotter. The old saying comes to mind - 'You can't please off of the people, all of the time.'

As with the BAIII, the CAIV crew provides photos of guests and also offers to sell a DVD of footage and still shots from the week. The crew's collection of material for this DVD must distract them from spotting marine life, as they seemed to focus on photographing guests, rather than spotting animals, which makes no sense to me.


9.) Iron Diver:
I earned my second “Iron Diver” award, completing all 26 dives available that week.

Congratulations! They make neat mementos.

I'll post more later; family's home.
 
Grand Cayman vs. Little Cayman and North Side vs. West Side
In keeping with the notion that the presence of larger predators reflects a healthy ecosystem, Little Cayman yielded our only reef shark sighting and some nurse shark sightings, of which there were none on Grand Cayman.
The Reef Sharks on Grand Cayman are at East End "corner" sites like The Maze, Jack McKenny's Canyons and Pat's Wall.

As for Grand Cayman itself, I also agree with what appears to be the widely-held view that the north side offers better diving than the west side in general, specifically due to heavy diver traffic on the west side and the resulting reef damage and dearth of marine life. Unfortunately, we spent more time on the west side than the north side, possibly due to the same northerly winds that led the captain to leave Little Cayman so early. I think that I would have had a more favorable impression of Grand Cayman overall if we had spent more time on the north side and less time on the west side.
I find East End and even South side (when conditions allow) to offer better diving than West Side - comparable to North side as well (especially East End)

One of my favorite sites on Grand Cayman was “Babylon,” which was at or toward the East End. (The captained explained that the CAIV rarely visits the East End, only when specific weather conditions are present). I had heard that the East End offered more pristine reefs and marine life, and perhaps this site, which was teeming with fish and had noticeably healthier reef growth, provided a taste of what the East End has to offer.
East End is fantastic diving, but I'd agree that overall fish life is more "sparse" in Grand Cayman versus other islands. I also dive every winter in Aruba and find the reefs to be more populous. The topography in Cayman is more impressive though - very dramatic walls, canyons and pinnacles. I do hope to finally get to Babylon on this summer's Cayman trip (5th year in a row) as I've been told it's awesome - as you discovered!

One of the most notable exceptions to the often underwhelming quality of the west side dive sites was the popular “Devil's Grotto,” about which I had heard beforehand. Despite what must be a higher volume of diver traffic there, this site somehow yielded more abundant and diverse marine life than any other natural reef on the west side, which might explain its popularity. We dove this site once for the last dive of our trip, both because it was shallower and because the captain was saving the best for last, but I would have preferred another dive or two there – it was that good.
Devil's Grotto is a great site as well - great swim throughs, lots of life (especially juveniles) - last August, a few of the swim throughs were absolutely packed with silversides. We look forward to diving it every year!

Great trip report, btw!
 
1.) I did the same trip, in May 2016; we hit 3 G.C. sites, headed to L.C. & did 18 total dives there, + 2 Keith Tibbetts wreck dives at C.B., for a total of 25 dives. We saw more sharks and I perceived it as fairly 'fishy.' That's relative, and I plan to talk about later.

I think that the difference in our respective assessments of the marine life and "fishiness" of the Cayman Islands stems from the different number of dives that we did on Little Cayman. I spent only one-third of the trip on Little Cayman, whereas you spent two-thirds of the trip on Little Cayman. Little Cayman clearly had greater biodensity and biodiversity and more "sociable" marine life. I think that my assessments in this regard would have been closer to yours if we had spent more time on Little Cayman.
 
10.) I'm surprised you consider Bonaire diving better. Some of Bonaire's lusher sites (e.g.: Karpata, Sweet Dreams) would compare well, but overall? I'm thinking of the reef in terms of corals & gorgonians. As to animals, Bonaire is often criticized for lack of 'big stuff' (somewhat unfairly; they've got tarpon, green morays, sea turtles albeit often smallish, the occasional cubera snapper, tiger grouper or barracuda (most small, a few big)); in the Caymans, take all that (I only saw tarpon at G.C.), and add more big grouper (e.g.: Nassau) species, more eagle & southern stingrays, nurse & reef sharks...

Would I nominate Little Cayman for “best diving in the Caribbean?” No. I rank it below Bonaire and Lighthouse Reef, on par with Cozumel, and above Curaçao and Turneffe Atoll. We only did nine dives on Little Cayman, so perhaps I did not have enough time to savor it, but I was much more impressed with Lighthouse Reef after only eight dives there during my otherwise unsatisfying BAIII trip.

As for mobile marine life, there was a decent, moderate amount of the generic or “garden variety” reef fish that one routinely sees across the Caribbean, e.g. parrotfish, French angelfish, squirrelfish, etc, but not quite enough to have the “aquarium effect” that many divers enjoy, except at Babylon.

The most glaring gap was the dearth and low variety of more noteworthy or memorable animals, e.g. animals that make you turn on your camera, bang on your tank to get others' attention, or record in your log book.

As much as I love the shore diving freedom of Bonaire, I wouldn't think it'd be ahead of the Caymans in this regard. It has a nice variety, and the occasional midnight or rainbow parrotfish, big porcupine fish or similar can be a head turner, but I don't usually think of Bonaire diving as heavily fishy.

My best 'fishy' dive was Snapper Ledge out of Key Largo. In fact, I found Key Largo fishier than any Caribbean destination dive I've done, on the whole.

11.) If you want wrecks and history, and you're based out of New York but willing to fly...have you considered North Carolina, such as out of Morehead City? It's not a 'reef' destination, but for wrecks with history...German U-boat sunk in wartime, anyone?

12.) It may help like-minded travelers if you offer some examples of what those things are.

Personally, I preferred the terrestrial environments of Cozumel, Curaçao, and Puerto Galera in the Philippines, as they have certain forms of entertainment that I enjoy, and I preferred their local cultures in general.

13.) Has been on all 3 Aggressor Caribbean live-aboard trips I've done. Our little girl (recently turned 5) likes to watch them.

Is that DVD a standard practice on Aggressors?

14.) I'd be interested to hear how many fellow Scuba Board members would endorse this view? I'm not saying you're wrong, but I'm surprised, and this is contrary to the impression I've had from postings over the years.

If you are a diver who likes to go underwater in order to see animals or other interesting things, then I would instead recommend other Caribbean destinations that, in my experience, can deliver more in that regard, both in absolute terms and especially relative to their cost.

15.) Turks & Caicos Aggressor II vs. Explorer II - I see the latter 'talked up' more on Scuba Board; both enjoy a good reputation, and on Undercurrent, neither trip is 'all 5 stars' in reviews. Worth a close look at both.

I would consider other Aggressors in the future, although my research thus far suggests that non-Aggressor liveaboards in many destinations that interest me (Turks & Caicos, Thailand, and the Bahamas) may have better reputations, yield better value for the money, and fit my preferences more closely.

More to say but kid yelling for me.
 
5.) Topside:

Not sure what you want to do that'd have the locals up in arms? G.C. is a popular cruise ship port, and I imagine has a # of excursions. On a cruise stop we enjoyed a dolphin encounter (yes, the issue of marine mammal exploitation is contentious and controversial) and turtle farm (likewise), but I imagine there are other things to do. Hard to imagine Bonaire's topside is more 'happening' (I've been to Bonaire 8 times).

.

The topside environment of Bonaire is not a factor for me since I can dive as much as I want, including at night, so I do not need terrestrial diversions for whenever I am not diving. Bonaire does nonetheless have at least one place that I would enjoy visiting at such times. In contrast, Grand Cayman does not have the types of entertainment that I would enjoy when I am not diving, primarily at night.
 
7.) I wonder if they are often a 'beginner live-aboard option?' I think they'd make a fine one.

.

Yes, I agree, the CAIV would be a great option for a first liveaboard trip, or a "Liveaboard 101." The crew is quite competent and dedicated, the diving is quite easy, and the area is not too remote. I wish that I had done this trip first instead of my BAIII trip, which was a bit of a baptism by fire, but the CAIV was already full for that week.

On that note, I think that the Cayman Islands in general would be a great destination for newer divers, either by liveaboard or on land, since the diving is so easy. Furthermore, what I found to be somewhat underwhelming marine life might be less of an issue for less experienced divers.
 
16.) This is important. I would've assumed that if weather prevented the crossing to L.C. & C.B., that the boat would focus on the 'very best' of Grand Cayman diving all week. If that's not true, could be a concern.

(The captained explained that the CAIV rarely visits the East End, only when specific weather conditions are present). I had heard that the East End offered more pristine reefs and marine life, and perhaps this site, which was teeming with fish and had noticeably healthier reef growth, provided a taste of what the East End has to offer.

----------------------------------

Do you think it possible (and you would not be the only one on SB) that you might just be over thinking every possible aspect of your dive trip and possibly at the expense of fully relaxing and enjoying the experience?

Madness.

Richard.
 
10.) I'm surprised you consider Bonaire diving better. Some of Bonaire's lusher sites (e.g.: Karpata, Sweet Dreams) would compare well, but overall? I'm thinking of the reef in terms of corals & gorgonians. As to animals, Bonaire is often criticized for lack of 'big stuff' (somewhat unfairly; they've got tarpon, green morays, sea turtles albeit often smallish, the occasional cubera snapper, tiger grouper or barracuda (most small, a few big)); in the Caymans, take all that (I only saw tarpon at G.C.), and add more big grouper (e.g.: Nassau) species, more eagle & southern stingrays, nurse & reef sharks...

As much as I love the shore diving freedom of Bonaire, I wouldn't think it'd be ahead of the Caymans in this regard. It has a nice variety, and the occasional midnight or rainbow parrotfish, big porcupine fish or similar can be a head turner, but I don't usually think of Bonaire diving as heavily fishy.

My best 'fishy' dive was Snapper Ledge out of Key Largo. In fact, I found Key Largo fishier than any Caribbean destination dive I've done, on the whole.

.

Again, I think the difference in our respective assessments comes from the different amounts of time that we spent on Little Cayman. You spent twice as much time on Little Cayman as I did, so the trip probably seemed much fishier to you overall. Perhaps if we had spent more time on Little Cayman, the Cayman Islands overall would have compared more favorably to Bonaire.

The comparison to Bonaire is interesting, because my critique of the marine life in the Cayman Islands is similar to many other divers' critiques' of Bonaire (i.e. a lack of noteworthy or interesting animals), which I personally found to be untrue on Bonaire.
 
10.)
11.) If you want wrecks and history, and you're based out of New York but willing to fly...have you considered North Carolina, such as out of Morehead City? It's not a 'reef' destination, but for wrecks with history...German U-boat sunk in wartime, anyone?
.

Thank you for the suggestion and the trip report, I will look into that. I had heard about wreck diving in North Carolina and will add that to my list of places to check out. There are also a lot of wrecks in the New York/New Jersey area, so I would not have to travel at all, but I might wait until the weather improves.
 

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