trip report - Bikini Atoll Oct '06

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mrpat

Registered
Messages
47
Reaction score
12
Location
Smoky Mountains, N.C.
# of dives
500 - 999
Bikini Atoll – Bikini Atoll Divers -Oct 2006

Expensive, but worth it!!

Bikini Facts - The Bikini Atoll group consisted of 26 small islands arranged roughly in an oval shape. Three of these were vaporized in the 1954 “Bravo” H-bomb test. Initial nuclear testing started in April 1946. Two atomic bombs, roughly the same output of the Hiroshima bomb, were used to sink a small flotilla of naval vessels. “Able”, an air burst, was a bit of a dud. The worldwide press, reported a disappointing mushroom cloud and that most of the ships remained floating. The second shot, “Baker”, an underwater detonation, blew an incredible mile wide column of water up into the air, throwing ships out of the water and smashing them to the bottom of the lagoon. The movies and photos of this explosion were truly awesome and gave the military and the press what they’d come for. Testing continued until 1958.

Bikini itself is only 586 acres. One plane a week arrives on Wednesday morning from Marjuro. Just a handlful of folks live on Bikini and most of them leave in November at the end of the dive season. Today the island looks absolutely beautiful with gorgeous white sand and shell covered beaches surrounding the island. The military chopped down most of the foliage in the 40’s but today lovely tropical vegetation has taken back the land. Today the US Govt conducts studies on well organized stands of coconut palm trees to see how to stop the unacceptable uptake of radioactive cesium. No one is allowed to eat anything that grows on the island. Therefore all food is brought in a few times a year on a barge and in coolers aboard the once a week plane. Little terrestrial life is seen on the island. A few bird species, several different lizards, 30 or so feral cats, the lapdog dive shop mascot, and a family of mice that brazenly ran across the kitchen counters were the only animals I saw.

Accommodations on Bikini consist of an assortment of well maintained wood framed plywood sheathed structures. Our rectangular shaped four room housing unit had a long covered deck running the length of the building with a stunning view of the white sand beach and the lagoon. Each two bed unit had a separate bathroom, individually controlled A/C, a dresser, bedside table, lamp, and alarm clock. Room keys are not issued because crime isn’t a problem. Daily maid service included fresh towels and linens. Everything had been freshly painted inside and out with rooms a variety of pastel island colors. Each guest house had its own rinse tank and gear drying station.

The dive briefings were presented in a separate lounge building. The interior walls were covered in wreck photos and schematics of the ships sunk in the lagoon. A long folding table, well worn couches, chairs, a ping pong table, library, and a 15 seat film screening room rounded out the accommodations. The dining hall and kitchen are housed in the old church building. A good sized commercial kitchen turned out a variety of bland but voluminous stick to your ribs meals.

The diving, however, was spectacular. The dive op was competently organized by Jim Akroyd, an ex-British Special Forces veteran, and his American wife, Gennifer. Assisting them was an expert staff of native Bikinians and imported dive professionals. Diving was somewhat regimented with a daily serving of two planned decompression dives which rarely vary from week to week. This was not a place where they let you dive your own profile. You dive their plan with three divemasters leading the dives and support divers helping out on the deco bar.

Double steel 85’s or single 104’s were pumped up to 3400psi. Two well designed 26 ft aluminum launches with drop down landing craft style bows took a maximum of six divers to the wrecks. During my visit there were only five customers and we had ample room to stash our gear and set up our rigs. A substantial three tiered decompression trapeze hung below the dive boat with 33, 23, and 13ft deco bars. Surface supplied oxygen (74%) was fed to all participants via hooka lines and Scubapro R190 second stages. My bottom times ranged from 22 to 35 minutes –ascent and deco times ranged from 31 to 52 minutes, total dive times were up to 90 minutes. Water temps were 86degrees, I was comfortable in a 1mm skin suit and a 3mm full suit should be enough for anyone. Every diver had to carry two decompression computers, dual gas models are almost essential. Check the web for recommendations.

Our first dive was on the afternoon of our arrival and we did the check out on the deck of the USS Saratoga at 110ft. Three divemasters were in the water with an additional couple of support crew watching like hawks at the deco station. Follow the dive plan, and perform the minimum required deco stops (2 min @ 80’, 40ft, 30’ then 5 min @ 20’ and 10 min @ 10ft, or until your computer clears plus 5 min). As the week went on the hang time increased significantly.

Visability was spectacular during our week with several days of 120ft+ of horizontal vis. But some of the wrecks had murky silt clouds rolling about both inside and out from recent collapses and other violent disintegration. In the 60 years since the nuclear tests these wrecks have slowly deteriorated. Their reinforced armor plates were often perforated and sheet metal thin. A combination of the atomic blasts and the ravages of the sea have caused major collapses on many of the vessels.

On our day of arrival the dive staff was literally in mourning. Two days before major sections of the bridge of the Saratoga had begun to buckle. Structural support beams crumbled on the flight deck and the top most gun director on the bridge hung out over the deck looking like a marble about to roll down a Rube Goldberg contraption. At first they told us they’d be no penetration of Sara this week but a couple of days later they relented and let us explore inside. The chance to dive such a variety of warships in one place is a real treat. Penetration was conducted on particular ships on specific dives. There wasn’t a bad dive in the bunch.

I'd been dreaming of diving Bikini since 1997. Although 12 deco dives (max depth 180ft) for approx $5,000 (dive/land package $2.8K + air from ATL) seems like an awful lot of money, believe it or not it was worth it. Better go now before old Sara really falls apart.
 
An interesting read. I've spoken to a guy who dove there before, but you've given me some new details. Thanks for the report.
 
Thanks for the information.

Will be there in March 07, looking forward to the wrecks.

bob
 
Congrats and thanks for sharing your trip!
 
Thanks for the write-up mrpat!

There's been quite a bit of chatter on the technical forums of the overall condensending treatment and "my way or the highway" treatment very experienced technical divers have received there. Did you see any of this? The overall implication is that the operation is geared to babysitting very inexperienced divers, and hence well developed skills get you nothing (and mostly discomfort at questionable proceedures).

Congrats on making a trip that most would consider the trip of a lifetime!

All the best, James
 
Dear James-
I 'm a bufoon at inserting these responses in the right place.

There is something to what you've heard. The diving at Bikini is very regimented. The perception of the lowest common denominator of dive skills & expererience of each week's divers is evaluated by Jim and his crew and becomes the basis of your penetration allowance for the week.
If you came with a film crew and Harold Hall you could go anywhere you want. If you came with me and some other nobody's it would be up to their perception of our agregate experience to determine the level of penetration we would be allowed.

Our five divers forced our desires, and proved our readiness, to the dive staff during our week. You can do it too! Just get a big group and go.
Mr Pat
 
Thank you very much for the detail report. You provided some very interesting details and updates. Bikini Atoll is one of my "dream" trips. I'm glad you had such a great time.
 
It's on TV right now on Dis times ch.
 
Nice report Mr. Pat! Been trying for years to get a job transfer out to Kwajalein, within convenient vacation range of Bikini Atoll for weeks at a time.

Of the diveable Aircraft Carriers in the world, I've always wanted to start with the USS Saratoga (but the USS Oriskany is now the more accessible of the two American Carriers).

Almost did the WWII British HMS Hermes (cancelled in April '05 due to tamil insurgencies in Sri Lanka): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Hermes_(95)
And the Nazi Germany Carrier --way too cold & deep for my comfort level:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/German_aircraft_carrier_Graf_Zeppelin
 
Dear Kevrumbo
I too love carriers.
I'd like to find, or build, a small group who wants to do 5 days to a week of Deco just on the Oriskany. Double tanks or rebreathers, deco gas in sling cylinders. Go from one level to another.
Really see what she's got.

Hope I get to dive with you someday.
Pat
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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