Trim weight for BP/Wings

[WillAbbott]

So I'm begining to think I need to get some weight off my belt, and more twoards my center of gravity... I'm not sure that I am for sure, but I think I'm swiming a bit heads up as opposed to slight heads down.

On recent IDI Power Fin test dives, I noticed when I pulled the fins in close as for modified frog kicks, I started to tip more into a heads down feeling possition, but still required me to force myself to tip down a tad.

I'd like to get some more weight into the plate area regardless, to take some of the 30lbs belt and make it smaller.


Current configuration and important details:

I'm 6'0" or there abouts
I weight in the neighborhood of 168-173 depending on the day.

I dive dry
Use Aluminum 80's (catalina's) (negative about 4lbs full, positive about 4lbs empty)
Pioneer 36# Wing
Halcyon SS BP (negative 6lbs)

I have an MSL1 on my waist (negative 1.5lbs)

I wear a soft weight belt which has a large zippered pouch with divided sections.

The belt consists of 30lbs configured as such.
4 - 5lbs weights
2 - 3lbs weights
2 - 2lbs weights


I want to add some weight to the plate, and have thought about some trim weight pouches (similar to the halcyon ones, just slip over the bands) I have another 4lbs pouch which I could put in it, or I could move my 2lbs weights into 2 trim pouches (I'm thinking 4lbs weight to the plate to start)... my thinking is put it on the top cam band.

On a recent dive, I actually hit the surface with 300lbs of air (knowingly went that low while sitting at 15' practicing skills) upon surfacing I actually was being tipped forward despite how little air was in my BC... probably due to having 30lbs on my waist and a tank which was more bouyant than I had ever allowed it to get before.

My thinking is 4lbs on the top band should ofset this, as well as trim me out more in the water.

The only problem with my weight belt is, I'm so skinny, and in order to hold that much weight, the belt is fairly good sized, making it a loose fit, at it's tightest adjustment... if I ditch the 2lbs weights out of it, I'm not sure it will stay on me anymore, without me getting a new belt (being a brand new belt, and the cost of weight belts, this sort of sucks)

I don't really like the idea of the trim pouches, as I'm not sure how DIR they are... as well as how well they hold up and what not... some that I've seen make me wonder if they will effect how well the cam band can hold a tank. (have a quick release clip on the inside)

I've considered possibly adding a weighted STA (or even non-weighted) but didn't know how this would effect my wing, and what not... I'm thinking it's the best option if it doesn't cause issues with the wing, or tank being out from the plate too far. I don't want to get a heavier plate or else I might consider a Fred-T or other brand heavier BP.

I'd like to keep the cost to a minimum, but also want the best solution.

I've even thought about possibly getting a 2lbs tank/ankle weight or 2, and just slapping them around the valve to test it out... I don't like them as a permanent option as I think they can cause problems (flip over the regulator and what not)

Thanks in advance.

 

[mwilding]

A heavy STA would fit the bill...

 

[OneBrightGator]

Hmm... I use Dive Rite Trim Weight pouches, they fit on any 2" webbing and hold up to 6 pounds. On my last single tank dives I tried them and fiddled around with them and found that 3 lbs in each (one of either side of the tank) on the top cam band and 2 lbs on my belt trims me out perfectly underwater and also adds more ballast on my back at the surface which helps me float heads up.

I'd suggest slapping a couple weight pouches on your rig (the ones I have are $12/each) and testing out different weighting schemes, and possibly a new weight belt if you truly do need one (oh, also, I noticed that moving my SS cam buckles to the side opposite my cannister light helped balance it out).

Ben

 

[cyklon_300]

it's essentially a P-weight constructed of heavy cordura sleeve and contains either 4 or 7 lbs of shot weight.

Has 2 grommets on 11"-centers so it easily attaches to the bolts on the STA/backplate. It was around $30.

http://www.diveriteexpress.com/bcs/weights.shtml

 

[FredT]

I'd like to keep the cost to a minimum, but also want the best solution.

I've even thought about possibly getting a 2lbs tank/ankle weight or 2, and just slapping them around the valve to test it out... I don't like them as a permanent option as I think they can cause problems (flip over the regulator and what not)

Thanks in advance.

Since you have a 30 pound belt now using a BP and singles you need to add up to 30 pounds of negative to your rig not on a belt, remembering the "Be able to swim the thing up or carry a lift bag" rule.

My heavy STA is 5 pounds. It will lift the tank center line about 1/4" from where it is now assuming you are using the STAless feature of a recent 36# Pioneer and you pull the rods. Older Pioneers don't have the rods to start with.

25 pounds to go.

A P weight will add another 8 or 9 pounds.

17#s to go now.

I do a custom weight casting to fit my heavy STA good for about another 8 pounds.

You're now down to about a 9 pound belt.

Replace the plate with a 5/16 or 3/8" thick version and you're down to no belt.

I listed those in the order I'd do them.
Other manufacturer's have similar products. The key is to move weight up the body slowly to determine your trim needs.

Alternately you can cast some flat lead sheet and bolt it to the outboard surfaces of the plate between the plate and the wing in areas not sandwiched by the STA and with no solid wing contact.

FT