Trim tune up

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Frosty

Contributor
Scuba Instructor
Divemaster
Messages
1,266
Reaction score
426
Location
Auckland NZ
# of dives
500 - 999
Hey folks working on tuning up trim.
1.75m 75kg diver diving in a 7mm suit,boots,gloves .hood. diving 12litre steel tank. mares WI BC carrying 6kg of lead in pockets. salt water diving.
tank as high in the tank band as possible without hitting head on the valve.
Diving with boyant fins all is great. flat trim. Swapped to a set of Mares volo which are negatively boyant. Now when stationary the feet slowly sink. Finning all is fine .
There are two trim pockets on the tank band currently not used because weight placed there seemed to have little effect. The thinking was its too close to the centre of mass.
Its annoying more than anything. What if anything do you suggest?
 
Bring your feet in some. Here watch a video of an instructor as she demonstrates a skill she remains steady and in proper trim. There are other video's from her that show excellent diving skills.
 
Last edited:
There are two trim pockets on the tank band currently not used because weight placed there seemed to have little effect. The thinking was its too close to the centre of mass.
That's the entire point of shifting weight to that location. You would be moving weight from your hips (farther away from center of mass) to the tank camband (closer to the center of mass). The net change is less weight farther away from center of mass. If weight is shifted judiciously in this way, the end result could be that your static trim won't be so head-up/feet-down.

Changes in hand/arm/foot/tank positioning and inherent fin/foot buoyancy can also make a difference, but obviously each of these changes has its limits.
Some people elect to place a small weight around the tank valve. A small amount of weight there (in the form of an ankle weight or heavy ring) can make a big difference in static trim.
Experiment with all of these options until you find something that works.
 
Bring your feet in some. Here watch a video of an instructor as he demonstrates a skill he remains steady and in proper trim. There are other video's from him that show excellent diving skills.

Not that it necessarily matters in context, but I think that is a woman, Clare Pooley (Gledhill).
 
The effect of weight movement is variable from one person to another. My COG is down around my hips, so loading my weight belt does very little, but weight on the cambands makes a difference.

However, I can switch back and forth from my Jets (negative) to my Dive Rite Exps (barely negative at all) without changing any weight, so somehow posture alone is doing the trick. Be very critical of your baseline from shoulders to knees, and your head position.
 
With the wetsuit and rig I was using in Bonaire, I ended up with about 1/3 of my lead threaded on webbing and mounted right at the shoulder of the cylinder. Moving the weight from my waist to the shoulder of the cylinder worked very well, allowing me to balance out my negative fins.

It's simple physics. The farther north (i.e. headward) of your center of buoyancy you place the weight, the greater torque it produces toward head-down. If you have negative fins, the farther south of your center of buoyancy they are, the more torque they produce toward feet-down. If you go completely quiescent, you will rotate such that your center of weight is directly below your center of buoyancy (which is why anterior placement of weight-belt lead is more stable and tank-mounted ponies tend toward turtling), but as in neutral buoyancy and horseshoes, close counts here.

Placing 1 kg north 20 cm from your center of buoyancy has the same effect as placing 2 kg north 10 cm or placing 4 kg north 5 cm. Most jacket BC trim pockets I've seen are very low and have very little capacity, meaning their turning moment is slight at best. On the other hand, a spare band at the shoulder of the cylinder (or even the old "ankle" weight around the valve) will have a much more pronounced impact. I've found about 1-2 kg at the shoulder of the cylinder is sufficient to *greatly* ease the trim of most of my non-overweighted jacket BC buddies, so I've made up several "trim bands" that they can put on the cylinder no matter what BC they're using.

Now, on the other hand, when I'm diving dry, my center of buoyancy is much farther south than it is when I'm diving wet. (Wet, my buoyancy is mostly in my big ol' lungs and my wing. Dry, it's everywhere, and I can send some extra air to my legs if I need to move my center of buoyancy down a bit more.) When I'm dry, all my weight (save the backplate) goes to the weight belt. When I'm in a 5mm suit, 2/3 goes on the belt and the rest at the shoulder on a trim band. When I'm in a skin, none is on the belt -- I have negative buoyancy south of my lungs, so to be in trim, I must add a small amount of extra weight way up at the shoulder to torque myself around the air in my lungs/BC into level trim.

With my wing, posture can roll the air north and south, providing a nice level of fine control over trim. With my jacket BC's geometry, posture has much less impact on my center of buoyancy, so I have to work harder to dial my trim in more precisely. In the wing, all it takes is halfway decent weight placement, and I can maintain trim with basically no observable effort. In the jacket, weight placement is almost all I have to work with, but if I get it close enough, what little postural control I can exert on the air in the BC can be sufficient. Oh, and in the wing and my drysuit, I can just about fall asleep and still be in precise trim. :biggrin:
 

Back
Top Bottom