Trident IIE Compressor HELP!

[Potapko]

Just picked up this compressor from a fire department here in the Czech republic. It is a 3 stage compressor rated at 212 liters per minute, or as they rate it 10.5 cubic meters per hour. . Has a 5.5 kw 3 phase 380v motor. manufactured in 1985 it has only 180 hrs on the motor.
First question, Do I need to add another filter to use it for air? Second, if I wanted to use it for nitrox and set-up an O2 mixing tower, could I do it and what would I need to do to the compressor to make it happen?

Third, It needs annual maintenance, Not sure if I can handle it but am ready to try. Is there more to it than changing the oil and intake filter?

I will try to post pics. Any help will be greatly appreciated. btw, I got this unit for $500. It seemed like a good deal to me but perhaps it is too old to be worth a dime

The handle on the control panel with the button on it is a clutch.

 

[Blue Abyss]

One of the first things that you should do as a new compressor owner is get the Oxygen Hackers Guide. This will answer many questions about setting up a fill station. It is a great reference.

Airspeed Press Homepage - Books For Serious Divers

 

[Potapko]

One of the first things that you should do as a new compressor owner is get the Oxygen Hackers Guide. This will answer many questions about setting up a fill station. It is a great reference.

Airspeed Press Homepage - Books For Serious Divers

Thanks,
I bought that a while back and have read it through quickly. I think I have a few things to do before I can get to actually setting up the fill station. I need to get a grip on working with the compressor itself first I think. imo

 

[veriqster]

i personally do not recognize the block but i'm sure if you post the labels on it somebody will chime in and tell you at least what it is so you can figure out the maintenance. it looks well built though and clean so it should be a good machine. make sure it has enough oil and in case it is pressure lubricated do not run it until you can figure out the running pressure, low pressure might cause other issues.
if what all the filtration is in the picture than you will need some decent filter tower, about 600-1000 USD around here. If you plan to pump a lot get a refillable cartridge (loose chemicals + packing comes out cheaper in long run). I would also recommend a moisture indicator (about 80USD) so you can figure out when your filter exceeds it's useful life.
pumping nitrox is not a problem through most of the pumps as long as you keep it under 40%, use a decent synthetic oil and keep a close eye on the stage temperatures. look up stick mixing on the forum here and on the deco stop, rebreather world possibly as well.
maintenance is oil, intake filter, filter media, not much more, maybe lube the bearings on the motor.
i hope you have the juice to power it, otherwise look for a replacement motor.
a pump in good condition is a bargain at 500 USD.
p.s. post the labels maybe somebody can help you identify it.

 

[Potapko]

Thank you for that helpful information,
I'll see if I can find a label on the block. The filters are both refillable type. Power isn't a problem as all homes have 380v 3 phase connections. The moisture indicator sounds like a very good idea. Don't understand what you mean by the stage temperatures.

 

[veriqster]

get a small infrared thermometer if you can (about 15$ around here). you point at the head and get the temperature. you should see only a small increase in temperatures when you blend through the compressor.
get a good synthetic oil from a reputable manufacturer (match with the fluidity and lubricity specs of the manufacturer recommended) and have a look at the msds sheet, you should not get even close to the flash point temperatures. the main concern with blending through the compressor is oil degradation and autoignition so you would want to keep the stage temperatures as low as reasonable.
honestly those two filters look small to me but i have no clue how big the unit itself is so i might be wrong. post numbers off them of physical dimensions and people will let you knnow if they are adequate.
unless you put the moisture indicator in between the two filters by the time it changes colors the filter is already junk so you have to log your hours / temperatures, etc.

p.s. LUCKY YOU!!!! in here getting 3 phase to the house is more expensive than a BRAND NEW, COMMERCIAL SIZE Bauer!!! and that's 220 3 phase, unless you have a commercial location 380 3 phase is a wet dream.

 

[Potapko]

I was told today by one company that services them that i should not change to synthetic oil because of the amount of residue already left in the unit. He said that to change I would have to dismantle the unit and completely clean it. Sound right to you?

 

[veriqster]

depends on the specifics of the unit and how much use it saw, the more use, the greater the chance of having carbon deposits in it.
most of the people on the forum report having no problems whatsoever while changing to synthetic, however, it is a case by case thing.
let's identify it first and then maybe somebody in here has good knowledge of it and can help you figure it out.
p.s. changing to synthetic is as simple as changing the oil, but involves a low hour interval. i personally had no issues when i've done it but the pump had only 600 hours on it.

 

[windyairman]

The compressor block looks the same as a SCHIFAUER the are in Prague Czech republic.

I think it also known as a ASTRA 160or v3 or v32 but all the inter coolers look not the same as fitted to astra units i know.

They also make blocks for L&W compressors that look the same .

Your best call is to contact schifauer direct with photo of unit then call them.
I find that they are very helpfull.

All the time i use either LM750 or Anderol 755 synthetic oils.
Due to the build up of the compressor [just 1 con rod] & cam. I never run them over 1850 Rpm.
One of the main fault i regularly find is leaking from third stage head gasket/seal.
The O ring under the valve fails,this causes internal leak then heat buils up & the main ally seal valve to cylinder fails.You cant easy see the small crack by eye it opens up under full load 200-300 bar.

Let us know how you get on with schifauer

 

[Potapko]

depends on the specifics of the unit and how much use it saw, the more use, the greater the chance of having carbon deposits in it.
most of the people on the forum report having no problems whatsoever while changing to synthetic, however, it is a case by case thing.
let's identify it first and then maybe somebody in here has good knowledge of it and can help you figure it out.
p.s. changing to synthetic is as simple as changing the oil, but involves a low hour interval. i personally had no issues when i've done it but the pump had only 600 hours on it.

This unit has only 180 hours on it. It is made by a company here called Aquacentrum
web address here.
Aqua Centrum Praha, s.r.o.

The problem is that people here are not normally very helpful. I called them twice and the best advice I got was to ship the unit to them and they will tell me what it needs and how much it will cost.
The other company that has serviced it from the beginning is willing to come out and do the annual service for $400. It will also cost $100 for their travel expenses. They are the ones who told me I can't change to synthetic oil without rebuilding the compressor. What is the issue with using mineral oil? That is what has been in it from the beginning. Can I use a filter tower and do partial pressure filling? Does the mineral oil prevent me from being able to clean up the air sufficiently?

I have full specs on the unit if it would help.
3 stage unit
72mm
28mm
14mm
1640 rpm
oil type says k-8, 1.3 liters
motor is 380v 3 phase
5.5 kw
2800 rpm motor type AP 112 M 2