Tornado HPE 3000-4-3

[SurfLung]

Filled a Scuba Tank at 3.5 cfm...
- I got a little impatient with my slow progress in figuring out a new plumbing system. So, I was able to cobble together the old Tornado plumbing with a couple of JIC fill whips. First try I included the black moisture condensation tower with a check valve after it. I filled a single 38 cf tank to 10% over at 2000... Which is 42 cf. When I turned off the compressor, the auto drain kicked in and the drain hose kept blowing like a firehose long after any drain was needed. Think about it... That little black tower is like filling up a pony bottle. When it blows back the condensate, its like opening a valve and waiting for the tank to empty.
- 2nd attempt, I bypassed the black tower and connected directly to my RIX filter array. This time the fill went better. I filled the 42 cf tank from 0-2000 psi in 12 minutes. I believe that calculates to 3.5 cfm. And this time turnoff only emptied about 4 feet of hose with the auto drain. I measured the rpms at 3450 rpm with the laser.

The original plumbing on this Tornado/Kidde is a combination of 1/4 npt, JIC 4 and a larger JIC, and I think some BSPT. Anyway I'm having to come up with adaptors by trial and error one by one. I can use the original as I did above if I can finish everything with JIC 4 fittings on each end. But I'll need about a 6" hose with JIC 4 on the check valve end and either end and then a fairly short JIC 4 hose if I connect an on-board filter system. Or, a longer JIC 4 house if I connect to an external filter system.

 

[SurfLung]

Filled a Tank... Twice...
- Configuring the plumbing has held me back until now. This thing has a mixture of NPT, BSPP, BSPT, JIC, and I don't know what else connectors, with a mandatory check valve... That was weirdly plumbed in. I've been stuck deciding where to start and what adapters to use. I finally realized I could hook everything up into the original modified "T" fixture and connect it with high pressure hoses by using JIC connectors.
- So, here its for your viewing pleasure.
- The long JIC hose connections are confusing, I know... Not to mention running them over my RIX SA3 compressor. Sorry about that.
- The vertical black tower is the original moisture condenser for the Tornado 3000. This originally is auto drained by the compressor when the compressor turns off. As you can see, it is about the size of a small pony tank. I didn't realize how much air this thing holds when you turn off at full tank pressures... It's quite a continuous blast of air along with the moisture draining function. If I end up using this, I need to secure the drain hose from whipping all over the place... As well as give it someplace to blow that isn't disrupting or knocking things and debris all over the place.
- I filled a 38 cf 1800 psi tank to 10% over... Which is 42 cf at 2000 psi. It filled in 12 minutes... Which is about 3.5 actual cfm fill rate. I measured the RPMs at 3450... Which is very close to the 3500 rpms specified on the side of the motor.
- This test proved that the compressor is worth spending the money and time to add efficient plumbing and filtration.

 

[SurfLung]

- I just got in four adaptors for 1/4 npt male to JIC 4. Tonight I'll layout the plumbing plan for the Tornado 3000. I'm hoping to keep it in a straight line so I can mount it neatly. So, I'll probably have to order more fixtures... "T" connectors anyway. This plumbing will have the following features in this order: Check Valve, Pressure gauge, Pressure Switch, and Over Pressure Valve. What I want to do is have a JIC 4 on each end and just connect them with JIC ended hoses.

- Last night, I hooked up the Chinese filter array from my RIX at the BPR, to the filter array, and then to my BPR equipped fill whip. So, I ran the filters up to 1800 psi and filled the little 38 cf test tank up to 2000 psi. So much for a simple function test... It all worked fine.

- Unfortunately, the RIX already has two moisture condensing towers so there probably wasn't alot left in the air for the new filter array condenser. I DID feel SOME moisture when I opened the drain on it. But in hindsight, I really didn't end up testing much other than the connections and the fact that it didn't blow up (as expected by some).

- Tonight, I'll see if I have enough fixtures to finish the hardware in the plumbing. If so, I'll do that and maybe test the filter array directly from the Tornado 3000. This will definitely test the moisture condenser. I feel good about that condenser... It looks like a good design. I might see if I have a Lawrence Factor filter that's short enough for the filter array. Otherwise, I'll just be running the original all-carbon filter that came with it... Next step is to either re-pack the original carbon filter or modify a Lawrence Factor filter to fit.

Oh, I forgot to mention I ordered a Solberg air intake filter to screw into the air intake on the Tornado. This will make up for the dirty old felt filter that was inside the intake cap.

 

[SurfLung]

A Bit of a Set-Back...
- I've been testing a set of Cheap Compressor Filters alongside this compressor project... And in doing so I've been working out how I will set up the plumbing of the air output. Below is a picture of the filter array with the latest plumbing configuration. The long tube on the bottom is the original one-way check valve. Above that is a simple cross connection with the original overpressure valve on the right, a pressure gauge on top, and the inlet to the filter on the left.

- On an earlier run, I had a long hose coming down to this same section of crossed hardware... Woith another long hose going to the compressor outlet. Afterwards, I discovered considerable condensation in the hose coming down from the filter array... The moisture had pooled above the check valve and everything below the check valve got blown out by the auto drain. So this time I put the check valve up near the filter array and connected directly to the compressor outlet with one long hose. So, the hose leading up to the filter array condenses a fair amount of moisture that runs back down the hose. On my RIX compressor system, I installed a bleed valve at the bottom and I am able to drain this hose condensation. On the Tornado Kidde, I can just use the auto drain function to blast out the hose moisture... I believe this is pretty close to the final way I will plumb the Tornado/Kidde.
- A Bit of a Set Back: I checked the oil in the compressorand changed it using a synthetic substitute for Anderol 500. I'm not sure if I put in too much oil or what... Anyway I developed a leak. I'm hoping its just a loose connection or something simple. It's somewhere over on the side of the auto drain. I think I'm going to have to dry it off and observe it while running.
- Otherwise its running well... I filled a test 42 cf tank 3-4 times now and it is going from zero to full at 3.6 cfm. All that's left is to fix the leak and connect to reliable filtration.

 

[SurfLung]

Nutz!
- Well just when I thought I was close to finishing, I changed the oil on my Tornado/Kidde 3000 compressor. But afterwards it was spitting oil out of the overpressure cap on the oil sump. I figured I must have over filled it. So, I drained some out and now I can see some air in the top of the glass tube. But now, I have developed an oil leak at the front of the oil pump. I hope I didn't CAUSE the leak by over filling. But in any case I'll have to fix the leak.
- I'm hoping someone can tell me something specific that is USUALLY where a leak develops? I've wiped it all clean and watched it with the pump running and pressurized 1800 psi. It looks like it's coming out of the bottom edge of the front cover that's held on by the 4 allen screws that also mount the fan guard.
- BTW... The oil I'm using is Seco Lube 500 Synthetic from Filtertechs. It lists Anderol 500 compatibility.

 

[SurfLung]

Over Filling the Oil Caused the Leak
- I've been on the phone with Jim Shelden and he's helping me replace the seal on the fan shaft just in front of the oil pump. Jim helped me find what is leaking and figure how to take it apart for replacement of the seal. I got the snap ring, bushing, and washer off but I'm a little stuck on the retainer ring that's in front of the actual seal. There must be a trick to getting it off. Hopefully my next post will have this compressor back in good running condition with no leaks.

 

[SurfLung]

Ready for the New Oil Seal

- Removing the bad oil seal was not pretty. Jim had me go down to the ACE hardware to buy an Ice Pick and just plain "dig" the thing out. Last night I managed to dig out the last of the bad oil seal. It looks chewed up around the rim but the snap ring groove is still good (I installed it in the photo above to be sure). The snap ring will be removed before installing the new seal.
- What you're looking at here is the end of the drive shaft for the fan. It goes right into/thru the oil pump. The sequence of parts will be: New Seal, Snap Ring, Washer, Fan Bushing, and fan with integral shock spring. The fan actually connects to the shaft thru the Fan Spring. The spring looks like a recoil spring and has a hook in the end and that catches in a notch on the fan bushing.

 

[SurfLung]

We'll See...
- The seal that came out was a 2-piece affair... front and back with the back cup crimped over the front cup. It was difficult to know what I was digging out because I'd never done this before and didn't know what oil seals look like inside. I think if I had realized it was a front and back style, I would have worked at opening the crimp. Then maybe drill a hole in the front seal and use a puller. Wouldn't be able to do that with the back cup but it might have come out easier if I hadn't already chewed it up getting the front cup pried out thru the crimp. 2-piece oil seals are kind of rare. When Jim sent me the new replacement seal, it was just one piece unit. I asked where's the other half?
- My first attempt at installing a new oil seal leaked... It's possible I damaged the outer sealing surface. But also possible I just didn't install it with a proper sealing compound. The seal is metal on metal slip fit on the outside. The seal around the fan shaft is a very sophisticated synthetic material that's backed by a circle of spring tension. Jim sent me a new seal and I'm awaiting delivery of a sealing compound before proceeding.

- This is the new 1-piece seal. I'm going to install it with some bearing retainer sealant on the metal to metal outside surface. Gotta get it started gently onto the shaft and then tap it squarely with a socket until it's fully seated with sealant. Let it cure for 24 hours and hopefully it will seal up my oil leak. Many thanks to Jim Shelden for guiding me through this and supplying the seals. Apparently oil seals like this are commonly available at stores that sell bearings. But I looked into it and there seems to be 1001 varieties... Much easier to just get the correct one from Jim!

 

[SurfLung]

Up and Running... Finally!

- A lot of mistakes and fixing of mistakes later... I have the Tornado/Kidde up and running. When we left off I was fixing the fan shaft seal that I screwed up by over filling with oil. Fortunately Jim Shelden had some replacement seals for me. I installed the first one badly. But the second try sealed that fan shaft up nice and dry. Some might question the ice pick method for removing the bad seal. It was to avoid disassembly. (see below)
- So I've been testing the filter system at the same time and proceeded to fill my test tank 25 times with no problems. This compressor is supposed to fill at 4 cfm at 3700 rpm. My motor runs at 3450 rpm and that calculates to 3.68 cfm fill rate. Just about every one of the 25 test fills r an a 42 cf tank in 11.5 minutes... Which works out to 3.65 cfm. Needless to say, this compressor unit is working perfectly.
- So then I figured I would hook up the automatic pressure switch. I had already tested it for function using a volt meter and pressurizing it. AND, I already figured the correct place to wire it on my starter switch. But once again I think I got too rough in trying to fit the wiring into tight places. Some how or other, I broke the stop/reset switch on the motor starter. Dang It!
- So, I was able to replace the Stop/Reset switch function with a toggle switch across the pressure switch jumper. Since I have an overpressure valve for safety, I decided I don't need the pressure switch... You can see it in the plumbing but its not wired in. I did a neat installation of the toggle on the starter switch housing, closed up the patient, and called it finished. It fills tanks faster than a raped ape... (compare to my RIX SA3 and Mch-6)

- Explanation of the Plumbing: I'm testing those filters under proper Scuba conditions... By that I mean; I'm using the proper filter media, I'm using a check valve in front of the filters, and I'm using a Back Pressure Regulator (BPR or PMV) after the filters... to maintain a minimum 1800 psi in the filter system for proper efficiency. I had to make a re-packable Lawrence Factor filter to get the proper filter media... Which is 13X Sieve, Carbon and Hopcalite. The check valve is the long skinny tube coming up to the filter system. The BPR is the rectangular piece on the end of the fill whip. The thing that looks like an upside down gauge is actually the original pressure switch... It's not wired in.
- "Don't Fix What Ain't Broke" - I have a tendency to keep screwing around with stuff and that made for some unnecessary and tricky repairs that I caused myself. I told my friend Jim Shelden, I'm going to quit fooling around with this compressor and restore it to simple operation... I will simply QUIT BREAKING IT! Jim told me an interesting story to confirm my decision. He says these Kidde compressors are built to last forever. The 4th stage pistons don't have rings but they fit like a glove and they're hardened so they don't wear out. Same with other pistons and rings. But they DO wear IN... So if you take them apart and put them back together, they're not thje nice worn in fit they were before you took it apart. So, don't take these things apart unless you absolutely have to.

 

[SurfLung]

Latest Configuration...

- My original Olmeva 4-Tube Filter Array was a bit of an overkill for my RIX SA-3 Compressor. So I swapped it over to the Tornado/Kidde 3000 and it works out great. The Olmeva condenser is working great. And the other three tubes provide SUPER moisture absorption and filtration capacity. I have two tubes of pure 13X sieve for moisture absorption abd the final tube is 3-parts: 13X, Acitvated Carbon, and Hopcolite.
- Between the filter array and the compressor, I have a check valve so that the Kidde auto dump just dumps the condensate in the hose and doesn't reverse the air from the filters. Directly after the filter array I have a PMV to maintain 1500 psi or more for optimum filter efficiency. And durectly after that I have a rebuilt Overpressure Safety valve set to release air at 3000, psi.
- The compressor itself continues to fill at a true (FAD) rate of 3.5 cfm when starting with an empty scuba tank.