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Ber Rabbit:
This sort of FAQ would be a wonderful thing to have, are you volunteering? If you will sort through the threads and direct link to (best way) or copy/paste (include the author's screen name) the most helpful parts into topic threads of your own I'll be happy to do the admin stuff needed to make them stickies. Just let me know when you start and PM me when you're ready to have them looked at.
Ber :lilbunny:
A good start would be the "To those considering getting certified" thread, which has a ton of mixed replies and has potential to be a useful resource. I've got some time, I'll put together some basic FAQs.

I've poured all I can think of into this, and I think I'm going to need help articulating everything accurately. So any additions or comments to my, likely, innaccurate attempts would be beneficial.

While this may be overly ambitious of me, I will now attempt to answer a half dozen or so common and simple questions without opinion or bias. Although I cannot completely cut my own opinion out, so I will indicate “flavored” statements in italics. I foresee lots of qualifiers in the future, such as “sometimes,” “a few,” and “could.” This is because some points are debatable
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Backplate and wing, or BP/W or vest style BCD?<o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
Backplate and wing<o:p></o:p>
The air is filled to a bladder mounted behind a metal backplate with straps across the front, including a crotch strap. The strap is one continuous piece of webbing, which makes for the fewest number of failure points. D-rings can be moved or affixed to many areas of the webbing. Backplates are highly adjustable for people of all sizes, extra large, extra small, etc. There are several manufacturers of backplates, but all generally share the same design. The single donut ring of the air bladder allows for air to flow freely through the wing to compensate for slight variations in the overall rig. The BP/W is &#8220;bare bones&#8221; in that there are no bells or whistles, very minimal. This makes it good for cave or wreck diving where space may be limited. You can add pockets and integrated weights to the system if you wish. You can also consider gluing pockets directly to the thighs of your wet or drysuit. If you plan on moving into technical diving or double tanks, the interchangeable wing can be swapped out to a higher lift specialized wing.
<o:p> </o:p>
The BP/W system does not &#8220;face plant&#8221; you into the water at the surface. It is thought by this user of a backplate that it also provides additional stability underwater. Many BP/W users prefer a simple weight belt, and the added weight of the backplate lets you take some weight off that belt. The added weight of the back plate is useful for cold water diving where, because of drysuits and thick neoprene, lots of weight is needed. In double tanks V-weights are used, completely eliminating the weight belt. Even if you are recreational or warm water diving, photographing or anything else, the BP/W is still completely appropriate for you. What works in a more demanding or difficult situation will work just as well in any other. When I was shopping for my first BCD, the owner of my LDS told me &#8220;There are people who have dove BP/W and love it, and those who haven&#8217;t dove it.&#8221; Also given the ruggedness of this type of BCD, it will last you a lifetime. Sorry, salesman out.<o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
Two big brands of backplates are the loved/hated Halcyon, Diverite, and Oxycheck. Diverite tends to be the more available, and has lots of extra features available.
<o:p> </o:p>
Vest/jacket style, or &#8220;conventional&#8221; BCD<o:p></o:p>
This is the BCD most people have used to learn to dive. They come in dozens styles and are made by lots of different companies. This BCD consists of an air bladder in the shape of vest, which you wear. The vest is held onto your body by varying methods depending on the brand. All share in common a Velcro cumberbun, which goes across your stomach, and a secondary buckle strap, also across your stomach. I do no like vest style BCDs for this reason. Your diaphragm is in your gut, and putting constriction across your diaphragm in a sport where breathing is sensitive doesn&#8217;t make any sense to me. There are also at times chest straps.
<o:p> </o:p>
Since this is the style of BCD most taught with, new divers sometimes find it to be most comfortable and familiar. Pockets with zippers and Velcro are in various locations, also on the brand. Weight integration is generally standard, putting all lead into pockets and eliminating weight belts. Consider, however, that when you perform a BCD removal and replacement that you will go up and you BCD will stay down. It could be beneficial to wear some of your weight on a belt. This BCD is appropriate for recreational diving in cold or warm water. D-rings are static and cannot be moved, nor does it not give flexibility to move into doubles.
<o:p> </o:p>
The ******* child of BP/W and vest style is the &#8220;back inflate&#8221; BCD. The air bladder is mounted on your back while the front more closely resembles a vest style BCD with ranging features. Some have weight integration and pockets, others are bare bones-ish. The prevailing favorite of scubaboard is the zeagle brand, last time I checked.
<o:p> </o:p>
No one can tell you what works for you but you. Find what is right and comfortable for you. Try out various types of BCDs before deciding on what to buy. Often times, generous people can be found who are willing to loan you their BC to try out for a dive. Divers are notorious salesmen for their own gear. Do consider the pros and cons of both, when purchasing my BC I was first terrified of the alien BP/W, and my first dive was not all that comfortable. As I dove with it more and learned how to adjust everything I was thrilled with having gear that fit me perfectly and comfortably.<o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
<st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Split</st1:place></st1:City> or paddle fins?
<o:p> </o:p>
This is a prickly subject as there are lovers in near equal numbers on both sides of this philosophical question.
<o:p> </o:p>
<st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Split</st1:place></st1:City> fins are newer, and have lots of engineering to back them up. The basic idea is that the fin flexes, and has a lot more surface area than a paddle fin. Users of split fins tell me they are easier to kick, and easier on their feet and knees. <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Split</st1:place></st1:City> fins are best used in a quick flutter kick type fashion. The most popular brand and model of these fins changes often, and seems arbitrary to me which fins are considered &#8220;best&#8221;. A popular rumor of split fins is that they are not very effective against a current, split fin users tell me this is not a problem.
<o:p> </o:p>
Paddle fins are just that, paddle fins. They do not vary quite as much as split fins except in length and material. Paddle fins allow for varied underwater movement, such as pivoting in place, back kicking, and frog kicking. They can just as easily be used for flutter kicking. Some split fin users have apparently been able to do these same techniques with split fins. The most popular paddle fin is the Scubapro Jet Fin since they are heavy, which aids in proper trim, and give you lots of power to push gear through the water. Jet Fins or other similar models are used by technical divers for these reasons..<o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
So again, whatever works for you. Try out both and go with what you like. If you are recreationally diving, you really can&#8217;t go wrong here. <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Split</st1:place></st1:City> fins do cost quite a bit more than paddles however. If you plan on going into technical diving, a scolding will likely occur upon display of your split fins. I prefer paddle fins, simply because I plan on moving into technical diving.<o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
 
I had a similar problem on the boards I run. The way I got around it was to use a plugin such as this one. http://www.vbulletin.org/forum/showthread.php?t=92201 What it does is make it where on the forum edit / add page you can set which page the forum appears on. So then you can put some on page one, some on page two, etc. Then you can put links in the postbit or whatever to index.php?page=2 etc. It helps make the forums appear less cluttered without losing any forums. I customized the script to my needs and then wrote some php scripts that I included in the forums that does the page=1 page=2 etc in the background depending on which url the user accesses it by.
 
At the moment there are no plans to split the forum home page.
 
SkullDeformity:
A good start would be the "To those considering getting certified" thread, which has a ton of mixed replies and has potential to be a useful resource. I've got some time, I'll put together some basic FAQs.

I've poured all I can think of into this, and I think I'm going to need help articulating everything accurately. So any additions or comments to my, likely, innaccurate attempts would be beneficial.

While this may be overly ambitious of me, I will now attempt to answer a half dozen or so common and simple questions without opinion or bias. Although I cannot completely cut my own opinion out, so I will indicate “flavored” statements in italics. I foresee lots of qualifiers in the future, such as “sometimes,” “a few,” and “could.” This is because some points are debatable
<snip>

That's a good start we can use those to begin a couple separate threads that could be stickies in their respective categories (BC/Wings and Mask/fin/snorkel forums). Now what we need are links to other individual posts that offer even more information so we can build complete threads and then lock them. You can put the links here in this thread and I can copy the individual posts into the new threads we start.

Happy hunting!
Ber :lilbunny:
 
I'll be glad to undertake a compliation of learning mask clearing suggestions.
 
Thalassamania:
I'll be glad to undertake a compliation of learning mask clearing suggestions.

Thanks for your help Thal, post your completed findings on this thread. If you want to take up any other topics PM me.
 
One at a time, one at a time.
 
SkullDeformity:
What chance does a question have of being answered if it's in a subforum of a subforum that nobody ever checks?
Pretty good, obviously. Here I am answering a question in a forum I never check.
What I do check, like most folks, is "new posts," and voila! Here you are! And with a dozen or so answers before I got here.
Rick
 
Two more writeups for peer review, pony bottles and nitrox.

Pony bottles


Pony bottles are a constant source of discussion. Uses include holding argon for use in drysuit inflation, stage bottles, and emergency air supplies. Pony bottles come in sizes from as small as 6cu ft, all the way up to 40. Some might consider Alu80s stage bottles. Typically, pony bottles use DIN valves, and consist of a regulator on a hose length of 40&#8221; and the SPG on a hose of 6,&#8221; although both lengths vary depending on the situation and specifics. The 6&#8221; SPG is attached back onto the first stage, and held in place by varying methods.
<o:p> </o:p>
When selecting a pony bottle, consider what function it will fulfill. For example, pony bottles of 13cu ft and less are considered by many to be too small for use in an OOA. Pony bottles of smaller sizes can be filled with argon and used for drysuit inflation. 19cu ft is the size where pony bottles start being used for emergency air supplies.
<o:p> </o:p>
Do consider that the pony bottle will have to hold enough gas to get you safely to the surface. Depending on your exact methodology, you could be ascending as fast as 60fpm, or as slowly as 30fpm. You should also know your SAC rate in cubic feet to figure out what size pony you need. You could build conservatism into your dive by assuming 1 cubic foot per minute as your consumption, or you could find your exact consumption rate and figure from there. As an example, to safely ascend from 100fsw (4atm) with a SAC of 1cuft/1 minute (4atm * 1cuft = 4cuft/1minute at depth), ascending at a rate of 30fpm you would require 4 cubic feet for the first minute in which you ascend from 100fsw to ~66fsw. From 66fsw to 33fsw you would require another 3cuft. From 33fsw to the surface you would require another 2cuft. This makes for a grand total of 9cuft. A 13cuft pony could be cutting this number pretty close, so in this case a 19cuft pony might be a better choice. (Does that make sense?)
<o:p> </o:p>
Contention lies in when a pony bottle is appropriate. Some believe that using a pony in recreational diving is encouraging poor gas planning. Proper gas planning would not require you to bring a pony. Others simply believe it is another level of safety.
<o:p> </o:p>
Making a pony sling, (I don&#8217;t know how this is done, and reading the threads does not allow me to clearly articulate the procedure.. If someone who has experience in this field could fill in this blank?)


Pony bottle threads<o:p></o:p>
http://scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=148300
http://scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=180942
http://scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=175839
http://scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=177258
http://scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=172639
<o:p> </o:p>
excellent threads: http://scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=174692
http://scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=171204
http://scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=184163


Nitrox
The short answer to &#8220;Should I take a nitrox class?&#8221; is yes. Nitrox is another level of safety, and aside from costing more there is virtually no downside to using it. Nitrox does have some limitations, due to partial pressures nitrox cannot be taken below 120ft. Below 120ft the higher percentage of oxygen can cause oxygen toxicity, causing seizures called &#8220;toxing.&#8221;
<o:p> </o:p>
Two concerns with nitrox are explosion and seal degradation. With your average nitrox mix being less than 40%, most nitrox fills are 32%, you can use most any regulator without any special preparation. There will be no risk of explosion from residual combustibles. Some companies have specifics exceptions and recommendations. You should always follow their directions. Seal degradation also varies depending on brand, but again most regulators are fine.

Nitrox threads
http://scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=183866
http://scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=182324
http://scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=181000
excellent thread: http://scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=180534
 
SkullDeformity:
Making a pony sling, (I don&#8217;t know how this is done, and reading the threads does not allow me to clearly articulate the procedure.. If someone who has experience in this field could fill in this blank?)
I sling my ponies, so I can write something up. It may take a few days to do so properly, including the photos of the jacket and backplate variations (the positioning is quite different, actually).

If I may make an unrelated suggestion, would you mind removing the "&highlight=what+ever" from the URLs? It's much more pleasant to read the threads without the terms sticking out unnecesarily. (Highlighting can be nice when searching, but not for reference links.)

Just turn:
http: //scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=148300&highlight=pony+bottle

Into:
http: //scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=148300


(I haven't reviewed the linked threads, but I figured I should speak up on the volunteering part right away.)
 

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