I have a thread in the flash area on strobe for Oly C-8080
http://74.52.40.164/showthread.php?t=154340
Any ideas gratefully appreciated.
http://74.52.40.164/showthread.php?t=154340
Any ideas gratefully appreciated.
To Oly TTL or not, what is the strobe
- Thread starter victor
- Start date
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I use 2 DS-125's with my camera setup. My wife has a Point and Shoot, and uses a single DS-125. They are great strobes... Very fast, and they have a light + strobe function to double as a focus light.
The DS-51 would also be a good yet cheaper choice.
They both support TTL, and I use TTL for my strobes, it lets me focus on my F-stop and Shutter speeds, without having to set manual strobes on top of all of that.
But neither of us use OLY, not that - that would matter.
The DS-51 would also be a good yet cheaper choice.
They both support TTL, and I use TTL for my strobes, it lets me focus on my F-stop and Shutter speeds, without having to set manual strobes on top of all of that.
But neither of us use OLY, not that - that would matter.
f3nikon
Guest
victor:
Forget the TTL save your money. Get a machine shop to install an Ikelite bulkhead connector (from Ikelite) wire in a Paramount hotshoe cord from B and H Photo ($15). Now your options are wide open to the Ikelite workhorse strobes you can buy on ebay for $100 or less and connect the strobe to the housing with a standard Ikelite sync cord.
The Ikelite Ai 100w strobe is much more powerful than any of the $700 Inon strobe and the Ai has a wider beam! Oh and the Ai has TTL but TTL does not work to well with digitial, just film (look up my long thread on this one). And why would you need TTL when you have the feedback from the LCD screen?
This system fires each and every time all you have to do is be a real photographer and adjust the aperature.
f3nikon:
So what is this supposed to mean? That real photographers don't use TTL? You'd rather end up with an overexposed shot of a lifetime because your strobe was set to full, rather than let the camera decide on the strobe power, since you only have a second to make the decision to shoot, and you don't have the time to select the proper strobe setting for a shot? To each his own I guess.
Where does one get an Ai 100 strobe? Do they make those anymore?
f3nikon
Guest
Thanks again for your help on my underexposed image howard.
Ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ikelite-100W-TT...oryZ4703QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ikelite-100W-TT...oryZ4703QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
It was overexposed.f3nikon:
Are you selling that?
f3nikon
Guest
howarde:
I was talking about the group of fairy basslets in coral that you tried to correct with photo shop last year. No I am not selling this Ai its just an example, and a bad example at that, get the Ai with the round flash tube I got three AIs from about $65 to $95 each
I use TTL on fashion photograpy with film, works ok most of the time. TTL is helpful in this case because I am tracking subjects (models walking) from 12 to 30 feet from the flash source. The exposure settings (aperture openings) have a much larger range (f2.8 to f16.0), in the case of U/W photography the range of the flash less than three feet, so the aperture openings are only about 1 or 1.5 stops difference. I set the aperture (diffusers on the strobe or power settings) for correct exposure at about 2 feet and will bracket (adjusting the aperture) around this setting.
When I say TTL works ok I mean that if your subject is not dead center of your view finder the TTL sensor will see the subject as 30ft instead of 12ft in front of you, blasting your subject to the overexposure round file.
So what TTL is in fact doing is dictating your photography, you must have your subjects in the center of the frame or else! This is fine for the snapshooters but not for the photographer. And the fact that the TTL exposure logic thinks all exposures should be 18% grey meaning that white colored objects, as TTL sees it should be light grey and black or dark colored subjects should also be light gray.
Lighter subjects will be underexposed and darker subject will be over exposed if TTL is working corrrectly the user has to intervene and "trick" the TTL by adjusting the exposure compensation dial, which is in most cases more difficult to do that just turning the aperature button when shooting in manual!
Remember the rule in flash photography is that the flash exposure is controlled by the aperature (or strobe power, diffusers etc.) and the background is controlled by the aperature and shutter. So I just set the camera to aperture priority, when a vary the aperture for the correct flash exposure the shutter does an auto correction for the background. And with digital we always have the LCD to check the exposure, with film we did not.
Diver Dennis
Contributor
I use TTL all the time for macro photography and I have had excellent luck with the Ikelite system and the DS-125s. It does not dictate my photography at all, I shoot full manual. The problem with using aperture priority, especially with long lenses, to vary exposure is depth of field.
The only time I do not use TTL at times is wide angle photography. My advice is not to buy a cheap under powered strobe.
The only time I do not use TTL at times is wide angle photography. My advice is not to buy a cheap under powered strobe.
So which picture are you making fun of - could you show me? One of my wife's photos with her point and shoot - if you're talking about photos from last year, she didn't have a stobe even. I only started taking stills underwater in the past 2 months.
This isn't always the case when you're dealing with underwater housings.
I've had really good luck using Manual settings for F-stop and shutter speed, and letting the TTL do it's thing. Sometimes, you don't get a second chance at your shot, fish don't always sit still for you like high fashion models.
f3nikon:
This isn't always the case when you're dealing with underwater housings.
I've had really good luck using Manual settings for F-stop and shutter speed, and letting the TTL do it's thing. Sometimes, you don't get a second chance at your shot, fish don't always sit still for you like high fashion models.
f3nikon:
I have two Ai100s that a lovely woman donated to me after seeing my images from a live aboard we were both on. She was an old school nikonos shooter but said she saw potential in my images if only I had a strobe. Well that was two years ago and the strobes are still in my closet. I have since addes a DS125 and DS50 to my 8080 and have had great results.....however...the thought of adding the Ai as primary and slaving the Ds125 to it sounds fantastic. I would assume I would have to replace the bulkhead connector and hot shoe...thus rendering my expensive TTL option defunct.
Thoughts?
Terry
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