To Oly TTL or not, what is the strobe

[f3nikon]

So which picture are you making fun of - could you show me? One of my wife's photos with her point and shoot - if you're talking about photos from last year, she didn't have a stobe even. I only started taking stills underwater in the past 2 months.



This isn't always the case when you're dealing with underwater housings.

I've had really good luck using Manual settings for F-stop and shutter speed, and letting the TTL do it's thing. Sometimes, you don't get a second chance at your shot, fish don't always sit still for you like high fashion models.

Howarde I did not get to see any of yours or your wifes pictures, I was speaking of MY under exposed picture you helped correct on the exposure. Unless you are a different howarde?

Did you check if your TTL system is working? In a working TTL closed loop feedback system the camera should control the strobe's output via the data read from the reflected light of the image.

With a given aperture range (noted on the strobe) you should be able to change the aperture openings in TTL mode or move away from the subject and the exposure level on all the images should stay about the same. If your system does not do this then its not the TTL as the industry knows it.

Do you ever bracket your shots when shooting TTL? Meaning can you absolutely control the exposure level by adjusting the the exposure compensation, if not this is not the true TTL.

Look back at all you pictures shot in TTL, again I have not seen them so I am not make fun of them, are they perfect exposures or could some of them use a little or more light?

 

[HowardE]

Howarde I did not get to see any of yours or your wifes pictures, I was speaking of MY under exposed picture you helped correct on the exposure. Unless you are a different howarde?

Did you check if your TTL system is working? In a working TTL closed loop feedback system the camera should control the strobe's output via the data read from the reflected light of the image.

With a given aperture range (noted on the strobe) you should be able to change the aperture openings in TTL mode or move away from the subject and the exposure level on all the images should stay about the same. If your system does not do this then its not the TTL as the industry knows it.

Honestly, I don't remember fixing a picture for you either. But I don't have a great memory. I try to be helpful.

 

[f3nikon]

I have two Ai100s that a lovely woman donated to me after seeing my images from a live aboard we were both on. She was an old school nikonos shooter but said she saw potential in my images if only I had a strobe. Well that was two years ago and the strobes are still in my closet. I have since addes a DS125 and DS50 to my 8080 and have had great results.....however...the thought of adding the Ai as primary and slaving the Ds125 to it sounds fantastic. I would assume I would have to replace the bulkhead connector and hot shoe...thus rendering my expensive TTL option defunct.

Thoughts?

Terry

I hate to tell you the bad news but the 8080 or any of the PS cameras do not have a TTL (Through The Lens) system as the industry knows it, its more of an automatic exposure system. The camera is not measuring the light coming in the lens (Through The Lens) the camera is measuring the light via a photo sensor just above the lens on the OUTSIDE of the lens... the part that is covered by the U/W housing!

This auto exposure (fake TTL) should work most of the time if the sensor is not blocked (in a true TTL the sensor is inside the camera). Its possible to get good exposures with this auto exposure system but was it because of the so called "TTL" system or was it because you happen to be within range and had the correct aperture and strobe power settings. Test it out yourself on land, by varying the subject distance or change the aperture settings, the exposure level should stay the same if this were working correctly.

Do you have an Ikelite or Olympus housing?

 

[divinman]

Do you have an Ikelite or Olympus housing?

I have the Ikelite housing. I actually flooded my 8080 two days ago. Just waiting for the insurance check to come in. May replace it, may upgrade to an E330.

I am not an underwater photographer....just a diver with a camera.

Terry

 

[f3nikon]

I use TTL all the time for macro photography and I have had excellent luck with the Ikelite system and the DS-125s. It does not dictate my photography at all, I shoot full manual. The problem with using aperture priority, especially with long lenses, to vary exposure is depth of field.
The only time I do not use TTL at times is wide angle photography. My advice is not to buy a cheap under powered strobe.

Good point, yes I had some good exposures with TTL on macro stuff, with wide angle and subjects that are off center...forget it! I bracket on 1/3 f stop settings, so manual mode gives me more control.

Lets look at the TTL system electronically. Look at all the connections that have to be in perfect order so the system will work properly. Bad enough you have a waterproof connection to fire the strobe but you have another connection (same cord) to turn off the strobe.

 

[f3nikon]

I have the Ikelite housing. I actually flooded my 8080 two days ago. Just waiting for the insurance check to come in. May replace it, may upgrade to an E330.

I am not an underwater photographer....just a diver with a camera.

Terry

Sorry to hear about your 8080. Good move on the E330 , I may get one myself, but not the first models that come out. Personally I would get another 8080 and wait for the E330 to settle in. But first find out why your 8080 flooded in the first place. Good Luck

Al

 

[Diver Dennis]

I took all these shots using TTL, I think there are about 80 or more on there. I have never had a problem.

http://www.scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=147109

 

[f3nikon]

I took all these shots using TTL, I think there are about 80 or more on there. I have never had a problem.

http://www.scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=147109

Again, good shooting Dennis. Now lets get into evaluating an image, when you get kind words on your images is it because the image is technically correct (meaning sharpness, focus, exposure etc.) or the composition is pleasing to the eye or the person complimenting just has not seen such a creature from an exotic location or they have seen the subject live but not in the same color because of the colors provided by the strobe.

That said, IMHO the clown fish is under exposed did you bracket this shot by taking more shots with more light? I am also looking at the contrast of the image meaning are the black or white shades true or are they look more of a grey tone. Are the colors eye popping, brilliant colors?

The Box Puffer fish (I think) is a fine example of why the small aperture openings (f11, f16 and higher) to gain depth of field, defeats the propose, because what you gain in DOF or more in focus areas you lost in the darkness! Like the tail of the Puffer maybe in focus but is lost in the dark because of the lack of light on the back half due to a small aperture opening. By opening up a stop or two the back half of the fish may pop into view, maybe a bit soft on the back half but as long as the eyes are sharp the tail does not matter just as long as the eye sees something that looks like a tail.

But then all my comments are just meaningless if one is just recording their images to save the wonderful memories of their adventures.

 

[alcina]

Wow, this thread is getting a bit harsh...and very much beyond the original poster's question...

 

[f3nikon]

Honestly, I don't remember fixing a picture for you either. But I don't have a great memory. I try to be helpful.

Here it is Howarde thanks again:

http://www.scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=114075