Tired of LocLine arms

[sunnyboy]

I was worried about weakening it by popping it apart. So small drain holes are OK then..

I've been popping mine apart for over 5 years now. Same loc-line. No sign of weakening or getting loose yet.

 

[sunnyboy]

I got tired of Locline type arms within about five minutes of using them. I could see them on a small video light but for a camera strobe, the amount of reach to the side needed for a wide angle lens and the lack of position options, no thanks. Not top mention that they flail about like a wet noodle.

N

I have a ball-arm for my strobe. I like being able to lock it in place. But for my sola which I use as both video light and focus light, being able to crank it quickly into position and have it stay is a godsend.

I agree I probably would not use it on a heavy light (i.e. big strobe). But for the sola and earlier my 18W HID with a video reflector and custom fastener it was just fine.

 

[Storker]

I have a ball-arm for my strobe. I like being able to lock it in place. But for my sola which I use as both video light and focus light, being able to crank it quickly into position and have it stay is a godsend.

Can't you do that by using a ball arm and just not tightening the clamps fully? I use that method for my strobes, to avoid having to loosen and tighten the clamps every time I want to re-position my strobes. It takes a little bit of fiddling at the start of the dive to get the tension just right, but to me it's worth it for the ability to tighten the setup and have the arms really rigid when I want that.

 

[_Ralph]

I was worried about weakening it by popping it apart. So small drain holes are OK then..

Just drill a small hole in each piece. I did 3/32" in the 'waist' area of each 3/4" segment.

Drains quick, and fills quick. I also use the holes to run a length of cave line to a small single ender that connects to the light. Haven't had the need for it, but it's nice to know my lights won't be falling into the abyss ......

As for weight, I have SOLA 4000's on mine with no problems. If you want something stiffer, find some braided hose to fill the inside and another tight fitting hose for the outside. It won't help much with drainage, but will provide a stiffer locline segment.


_R

 

[KeithG]

During all of my underwater video I am contantly hearing creaking from the locline arms. I guess it is due to the limitations they have bearing weight of strobes and such. Also, I am contantly having to adjust them underwater as they sometimes shift a little. What are some of the better aluminum arms that are out there?

when switching to ball and arm there are a few things to be aware of
- not all balls are the same size, some sizes can be mixed, some can not
- get balls that have an oring, be prepared to replace the orings when they age
- no need to over tighten the clamp
- costs can quickly escalate if you need to buy hard to find "adapter" pieces for tray or strobe mounting

 

[KeithG]

Can't you do that by using a ball arm and just not tightening the clamps fully? I use that method for my strobes, to avoid having to loosen and tighten the clamps every time I want to re-position my strobes. It takes a little bit of fiddling at the start of the dive to get the tension just right, but to me it's worth it for the ability to tighten the setup and have the arms really rigid when I want that.

This works well on oring balls. If you do not have orings, then you need to tighten your clamps so much that easy adjustment is not possible. So always get balls with orings.

 

[Storker]

This works well on oring balls.

Ah. I wasn't aware that ball arms without O-rings existed.

You learn something every day...

 

[sunnyboy]

Can't you do that by using a ball arm and just not tightening the clamps fully? I use that method for my strobes, to avoid having to loosen and tighten the clamps every time I want to re-position my strobes. It takes a little bit of fiddling at the start of the dive to get the tension just right, but to me it's worth it for the ability to tighten the setup and have the arms really rigid when I want that.

It wouldn't work the way I do it. Regular arms have fixed lengths and there are many positions simply not possible, like really close to the camera. Loc-line does that, which is where the sola usually sits as a focus light. But if I video I can quickly move it anywhere.

 

[Storker]

Regular arms have fixed lengths and there are many positions simply not possible, like really close to the camera

Two arms per light/strobe, the outer just a little longer than the inner. I have no problem pulling my strobes as close to my camera housing as physically possible. In that position, my strobes are touching my tray's handles.

 

[sunnyboy]

Sorry, in my books that's getting into serious "camera with a diver attached" territory. I'm still a diver taking a camera underwater.

I'll get into the serious stuff if I ever decide to get a DLSR and it's huge housing and multiple strobes. For now I'm running a point-and-shoot with one strobe on an arm and the sola on loc-line. I can clip it off to my chest d-ring and take off on my scooter without fouling or harming the camera, yet still get pretty decent photos and video. It's working well for me at this time.

It's really good to see how other folks approach their camera set-up and gear, because we can compare notes and also get lots of ideas and things to aspire to. Cool discussion.