Tips for removing copper crush washer from cylinder valve

[jgttrey]

The title says it all. I'm overhauling some cylinder valves (Blue Steel FWIW), and the old copper crush washer/gasket is pretty well stuck in there.

Any pro tips for getting it out without mucking around too much? It's almost like it's welded in there.

Many thanks.

 

[a878bob]

I've had the same problems with bs valves, that's one of the reasons I like thermo better, I've never had to dig out the crush washer. But I use this for a tool, and lever the edge of the washer to get it started. It's a nail cuticle tool and the spud at the end works great great for this.

 

[JackD342]

Yeah, I have trashed a couple of old Dacor (by Sherwood) valves trying to dig that crush washer out.
First step is prevention - if the valve is serviced every 5 years as recommended, you will have less difficulty or perhaps none at all. The ones I have run in to had probably gone 10-15 years or more since the last change.

I will have to try one of those tools in @a878bob 's post the next time I get there. Probably have a damaged one still an a box I can practice on.
But for what it is worth, here is my method after some trial and error: I get very sharp point nail or drywall screw, and place it into the opening so that it is as sharp an angle as possible to the circumference of the washer. Then a little tap with a small mallet or hammer to try and get the point to bite into the copper (but nothing else) and rotate the copper washer. It takes a bit of practice to get just the right amount of force to do the job no damage.

Happy to hear any other suggestions too. I know this one issue can be a real pain.

 

[Wookie]

I use a screwdriver, the flat stubby with the 1/4” blade. It never fails and I’ve never had one fail to seal because I scratched the seating surface.

 

[W W Meixner]

The title says it all. I'm overhauling some cylinder valves (Blue Steel FWIW), and the old copper crush washer/gasket is pretty well stuck in there.

Any pro tips for getting it out without mucking around too much? It's almost like it's welded in there.

Many thanks.

JG...

A couple of short blasts from the air gun works very well...the copper compression washer will come right out...

I'd avoid any ''pry tool/pick''' unless it's plastic...remember you're ''picking'' on soft brass...a brass pick is better suited for ''O'' ring work...the pick will be ruined by the time you pry out the compression washer...

Best...

W.

 

[TrimixToo]

Stainless dental tools work for me. Like Wookie, I have never scratched the seat. I do not know what the valve bodies are made of (some alloys of brass and bronze are very hard, others not), but chrome is very hard and difficult to scratch. The risk to the brass in this instance comes from making a dent to the underlying material, and that can cause the chrome to flake.

 

[jgttrey]

Thanks for the tips. Super helpful.

These are out of a set of doubles I bought a couple of years ago and I don't have much idea about their service history. Otherwise, they are in fine shape but the darned washers were a bear.

Tried the screwdriver method, a la @Wookie, and they popped out like a charm.

 

[Rusty Shackleford]

The chrome is hard but the underlying brass is soft. Think how an M&M is made. Hard on the outside but supported by a soft interior. I have a stage bottle that the top of the valve is noticeably dinged. The chromes is intact but the underlying brass is slightly deformed. Does not affect functionality.

Respect the brass.

 

[The Chairman]

Don't forget to anneal the copper before you reuse it.

 

[akdeepdiver]

Remove all parts until you have just the valve body with the crush washer. Put it in a pot of boiling water for 5 minutes. Immediately transfer it to a bowl of ice water. Brass and copper expand and contract differently with temperature changes, so that will usually knock it loose.