Thermo Pro Valve vs. 300 Bar DIN

[mk706]

I've decided to invest in a pair of Worthington X7-100s distributed by Sea Pearls and ordered through my LDS. The tanks come equipped with Thermo Pro valves that are changeable between Yoke and 230 bar DIN. Will this valve allow growth into technical diving in the future, or should I change the valves to 300 bar DIN H-valves?

About me, I've been diving about ten months with around 50 dives, and have completed SSI master diver requirements, save updating my CPR certification. I would like to take advanced EAN & deco procedures within the next year. I'd prefer not to replace the valves in the future. Most of the gear lists I've seen for tech list 300 bar H-valves as required. Is there a danger associated with Pro valve and tech diving if the tanks are filled to 3442 psi? I realize this may be a good question to ask my future tech instructor, but I'm not to the point yet of finding one. For that, I'm considering a week long vacation during which the courses would be completed, most probably with TDI.

I recently took advantage of the Hollis regulator deal and secured a DIN DC1 + 2x 212. They're also still on order. I like the Pro valves as I can allow my dive buddy (aka girlfriend) to use one with a Yoke regulator on occasion. However, I'd rather have her rent tanks if it means my having to invest ~$100 + cleaning in the future for a pair of H-valves.

I suppose option 'C' would be a DIN-to-Yoke tank valve adapter, would that be a better option with the H-valves versus Pro valves?

 

[Chugwhump]

Some good folks I expect will chime in on this, but for now, I reccommend that you go with the Yoke/Din 200-230 BAR valves.
I seem to have read that recreational use tank pressures 4000 psi or less, get by just fine with the 5 thread.
The nice thing about the yoke ability is that you can share your tanks with friends who might be "Yokels". I share mine often
There is a vein of thought that the 5 thread is safer, I cannot remember what that was all about.
I have the 200 BAR Thermo valves in their DIN format on my 130's.
I am often sick wicked high on pressure, and no issues after many dives.
I await the onslaught of people who know this subject better than me......


Chug

 

[paddler3d]

The HP 100's from Worthington come with 3/4-14 NPS thread. You can toss in any valve that is 3/4-14 NPS thread.

At this point I wouldn't worry about going to an H-Valve. It doesn't offer the redundancy one thinks it does.

If you want true redundancy, go to a pony tank that you sling or back mount. That way it is on its own separate 1st stage.

Frankly, if you're going to be diving DIN, get a conversion kit for your girlfriends rig and switch her to DIN. I've found that traveling, a lot of tanks you rent come with the PRO valves. Throw the appropriate allen wrench in your dive kit.

The only difference between a 200bar DIN and a 300bar DIN is their rated service pressure and the amount of threads. When you thread your new Hollis reg (my buddy has them and they're solid) into the 200bar DIN valve, it won't thread in all the way. That is normal and fine.

Do some digging on the H-Valve. You don't see many of them in the 'wild'. There is a reason.

Good luck!

 

[Lone Frogman]

T
Do some digging on the H-Valve. You don't see many of them in the 'wild'. There is a reason.

 

[halocline]

If you want true redundancy, go to a pony tank that you sling or back mount. That way it is on its own separate 1st stage.

H valves also use two 1st stages, in fact that's exactly the point.

But, I agree that you should just keep the regular 200bar din/yoke convertible valve. They'll handle more pressure than the tank. There is some validity to the opinion that they're stronger than the 300bar valves, because the machined recess is not as deep and they are supposedly a little more resistant to getting knocked out of round by dropping the tank.

As you get into tech training, you can get a manifold and bands and double the tanks up, or you can use them independently in a side mount rig, but you're going to be using two full size tanks.

 

[WD8CDH]

<snip>
The only difference between a 200bar DIN and a 300bar DIN is their rated service pressure and the amount of threads. <snip>
Do some digging on the H-Valve. You don't see many of them in the 'wild'. There is a reason.

Good luck!

It's really just the number of threads. Most 200 bar and 300 bar valves are rated for a service pressure of 4500psi (310bar):

OMS SCUBA Valves & Manifolds http://www.OMSdive.com

If you can, swap for a "200 bar" Modular valve that you could use as part of a manifold or add an H valve later. You could still use it yoke/DIN.

The main reason that you don't see H valves in the wild much is there is very little tech diving done with singles and an H valve is rather expensive for non-tech diving.

 

[paddler3d]

I was under the impression that since an H valve has a single burst disk for both firsts, it isn't considered redundant.

At least with a doubles set up with a manifold, if one disk fails, you can isolate that tank protecting your remaining air supply.

When I was in the OP's stage of diving, I looked at the H valve, because I wanted redundancy. It didn't provide it and I'm currently diving a single configuration with a slung pony.

 

[mk706]

I think I have my answer - I'll stick with the Pro values for the time being.

Now, I just need to get the new reg & tanks in time for a mini-vacation to Key Largo in October.

 

[WD8CDH]

I was under the impression that since an H valve has a single burst disk for both firsts, it isn't considered redundant.

At least with a doubles set up with a manifold, if one disk fails, you can isolate that tank protecting your remaining air supply.

When I was in the OP's stage of diving, I looked at the H valve, because I wanted redundancy. It didn't provide it and I'm currently diving a single configuration with a slung pony.

True, but due to operator error, far more accidents have happened with isolator manifolds than with non isolator manifolds. Hardly any of the manifold related failures could be actually cured with the isolator valve but many, many have been caused by improper use or failure of the isolator valve. Operator error is probably at least 100 times the danger of a maintained burst disk failure.

“Ideal” Manifolds… Not So Ideal?

Fortunatly most Tech Manifold manufacturers still make non-isolated crossovers.

 

[paddler3d]

True, but due to operator error, far more accidents have happened with isolator manifolds than with non isolator manifolds. Hardly any of the manifold related failures could be actually cured with the isolator valve but many, many have been caused by improper use or failure of the isolator valve. Operator error is probably at least 100 times the danger of a maintained burst disk failure.

“Ideal” Manifolds… Not So Ideal?

Fortunatly most Tech Manifold manufacturers still make non-isolated crossovers.

Would an example be someone diving doubles with Isolation Manifold, failing to open valve, breathing down one tank empty while their SPG shows a full tank?