hammet
Contributor
In before someone comes out with a $5.00 rubber prophylactic protector for $75.00.
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Thank you for your very detailed response. I should have taken a picture on the boat, but the Teric looked beautiful, but the multiple shinning metal scratch marks on both sides of the bezel really stuck out (especially against the black paint). It won't deter me from buying and really loving the Teric, but it'll just be a reality that it won't look "new and board room like watch material" very long. My Perdix AI and Oceanic OCi (both with several hundred dives on them) look the exact same as the day I opened it. My Oceanic OC1 looked like I rubbed against every wreck I saw around the bezel. Well, at least the screen is sapphire mostly scratch proofI’m a long-time lurker, but sadly, an infrequent contributor... I should log on more often.
I was lucky enough to get a Teric from my LDS earlier this month; I’ve worn it tons, but have barely splashed around with yet. I’m taking it out to a local lake this weekend, though. And I can barely wait to take it out to the Red Sea in September.
Anyway, I thought I’d chime in on the subject of the durability of the coating on the bezel as I definitely considered this before pulling the trigger on the Teric rather than the Perdix AI. I’m a fairly avid watch collector (specifically dive watches), but I make a point to avoid anything with a coating like that of the Teric’c steel bezel - most are a PVD (physical vapour deposition) coating, some more expensive options can be DLC (diamond-like carbon). Before making the decision, I did share some emails with Shearwater on this.
I was told by Shearwater that the bezel, buttons and screws (the only exposed steel components) are PVD. I’m sure not all PVD coatings are created equal, but my experience is that no PVD lasts forever like DLC can. The VP Marketing at Shearwater went on to confirm that the “leading edge” of the bezel will show wear overtime and that scratches will probably leave visible marks.
At the end of the day, a PVD coating can be reapplied - and I think Shearwater might even do this (some third party watchmakers certainly could). Also, if one was so inclined, the PVD coating could be completely stripped - if there’s no coating, there’s much less of this superficial wear. To Hammet’s point above, a film or wrap of some type could be applied. Or, as most of us will probably do, we can live with the character-marks and patina that come with using such tools.
PS - Apologies for the long post, I really should log on more often.
some more expensive options can be DLC (diamond-like carbon). ....but my experience is that no PVD lasts forever like DLC can.
In before someone comes out with a $5.00 rubber prophylactic protector for $75.00.
Thank you for your very detailed response. I should have taken a picture on the boat, but the Teric looked beautiful, but the multiple shinning metal scratch marks on both sides of the bezel really stuck out (especially against the black paint). It won't deter me from buying and really loving the Teric, but it'll just be a reality that it won't look "new and board room like watch material" very long. My Perdix AI and Oceanic OCi (both with several hundred dives on them) look the exact same as the day I opened it. My Oceanic OC1 looked like I rubbed against every wreck I saw around the bezel. Well, at least the screen is sapphire mostly scratch proof
I wonder if Shearwater might do future watches with DLC given the reasonably high-end aspirations of the Teric? Did you get the impression they might or just that it is what it is?
wish-list addition: If @Shearwater did do a protector in matching colours to their strap options it would look quite cool; a bit of a g-shock look for dive use, and with the possibility of black stealth for evening use (and by default have a black protector as part of the package). Hopefully they might charge something nominal for this
On the weekend, I had the chance to log a few quick dives at the lake closest to me... It worked fantastically! Something that I’m used to on a computer which wasn’t showing on the default dive mode screen is the temperature of the water (I formerly used a Zoop)
On the weekend, I had the chance to log a few quick dives at the lake closest to me... It worked fantastically! Something that I’m used to on a computer which wasn’t showing on the default dive mode screen is the temperature of the water (I formerly used a Zoop)
While in dive mode, you can access the water temperature by pressing the Info button. (The one on the lower right, where the numeral 4 would be on an analog watch. I don't recall how many times you've got to press the button before you come to the temperature display. After 10 seconds displaying any specific screen, the display will revert to the default screen.
They say they extensively tested in BC, that should do itHas anyone tried this in colder water with 5mm or dry gloves? I haven't seen anyone using gloves in any of the videos, and those buttons look kind of tiny.