AADiveRex
Contributor
Happy to, as long as it is kept in mind by all that these were choices I made for myself. I am not saying that my way is better, nor am I saying my way is "right". For me, my way works better. If it works for you too, great. If not, I encourage you to find that which works best for you.Snowbear:No blasting from me
I am, however, genuinely interested in which DIR ideas you have adopted and which you have rejected. What did you find that did and did not work for you and why? I encourage you to post it openly, but if you'd rather not, PM is fine.
Let's start with the foundation. I don't use a backplate and harness. I use a Dive Rite TransPac with the stabilizer plates. I find the TransPac more comfortable and versatile that the harness, easier to get in and out of both on the surface and under water, and just as solid and secure as a harness and backplate. The backplate is actually a real problem for me. I am 5'6" and negative as a rock. I can lay down flat on the bottom of the ocean with just a bathing suit on. Fully geared up, I need zero weight, even without stage bottles. In just my drysuit, PST double 100s (the lightest tanks I use), TransPac and wings, with ankle weights on to trim me right, I am negative. Adding a backplate makes the situation much worse, and this weight is obviously not ditchable. As it is, I wear 8lbs of lead on my waist just to have some ballast, and because I set the hook on the wreck I need to be able to drop fast. When I cave dive with LP104's, I need to use Dive Rite Super Wings just to be able to get neutral. It comes down to both comfort and function, for me.
Next, the pressure gauge. I have a small console, not a solid brass SPG. Sure, a lone spg would work fine, but I prefer the console. First, the SPG itself is a Dacor gauge with a built in bottom timer. No big deal, but it acts as a 4th bottom timer. The console also holds an old Dacor Pro Brain air only computer. This is my third backup computer and bottom timer. Sure, it gets bent every time I do a deco dive, but even in its Out of Range Mode, it continues to function as a bottom timer. On the back of the console is a basic small dive knife, and around the boot is a Casio G-Shock watch. This last item is one of pure sentimentality. I have had it on every dive I have ever done since my open water training, never needed to be reset, and amazingly, in almost 20 years, never even needed new batteries. It is my 5th redundant bottom timer. Overkill for sure, but it costs me nothing to carry it. The whole thing is only 3 inches longer than a lone SPG would be. I clip it to a brass ring that sits in the middle of my chest (I made a custom chest strap with this brass ring on a fastex clip, so it is easily removable if need be), just below my dry suit inflator. I can read it without touching it, just by looking down. Certainly not DIR, but it works great for me.
Argon bottle. Strapping it to the side of my tanks DIR style would preclude entry and exit to at least 100 places inside wrecks that I can think of off the top of my head. If you have ever squeezed through a U Boat hatch, you know exactly what I mean. I use a 7cf bottle clipped to the soft backplate of my TransPac behind my right arm (sandwiched between my back and the wing). I have no problems or squeeze inflating my wing to capacity, and no loss of range of motion in my right arm whatsoever. I have never exhausted this bottle. If I did, I can always hook my wings lp inflator into my drysuit for some additional gas, even if it is trimix.
Light. I use a Dive Rite Slimline 10 watt HID worn on my right hip via waist belt. Seems like it could be DIR, right? Wrong. I hold it in my right hand and wrap the cord around my arm. This keeps the cord from snagging, and, well, I'm right handed, I like the light in my right hand. I also wear the canister inverted, top down. This protects the cord-canister connection from abuse when squeezing into tight spots. The solid delrin on the bottom of the canister takes the abuse instead. My backup lights are worn on my shoulder straps DIR style, but the light head faces forward, not down. This way, if the bezel is too tight and the light comes on under pressure, I know it. I can also turn them on and leave them stowed in place, and they shine in the right direction. Hands free works for me.
Regs. Poseidon Cyklones. Rugged, reliable, time proven, and I just love the way they breathe, deep or shallow. They work from either direction as well. Only down side is that hey are not disassemble-able underwater, but, well, I have a backup, right? DIR requires that the reg be dissassembleable (is that a word?) to clear debris from the diaphragm. This is a good point, and I actually have been considering upgrading my regs to newer technology, maybee Apeks or Aqualung Legend LX (AWESOME reg IMHO. Apeks technology, but better implementation, and by most tests, better performance) My long hose is on the right post, 6ft not 7ft because the 7ft is just too long for my short torso, and it floats up. My pressure gauge is on the right post, not left. This way, if I have a partially closed valve or isolator, I may see the pressure fluctuation as I breathe.
Stage bottles. Two 30cf bottles, worn one on either side for better balance and streamlining. I don't mark them DIR style because I often have to mix and top off on the boat over long trips, and the contents may change. On shallower deco dives (80 to 160 ft) I only need one bottle per dive, so I will fill both identically. One is black, one is yellow. If I carry both, black is the hot gas, always on my right. Easy. I also label with duct tape and a sharpie, so there is no possibility of confusion. I never use O2, I prefer 85%. I know this point could start a whole other debate, but I find the O2 tox loading lower and the deco advantage close enough to the O2. If you have ever done a deco in really rough seas, you know that your depth changes with sea swells regardless of your bouyancy skills. 85% is a little more forgiving. I never have found the need for larger tanks either. Two 30cf gives me plenty of gas for deco for a dive up to 30 minutes at 250ft, with 25% reserve. I use the Dive Rite stage straps, because they work great. The only deviation is that I use a nylon sleeve around the hose clamp to keep the metal of the clamp away from the tank. Dissimilar metals, elctrolysis, remember? I have seen tanks condemned due to pitting from electrolysis. One last deviation, I have lengthened the top clip leads to allow the bottles to sit a bit further from the chest clips. I find it more comfortable, and trimmed better for me.
Drysuit. No pockets. I find they give me additional drag. Everything I need in a pocket fits in a small nylon pouch on my waits band. (Spare mask, shears, surface signalling devices, marker light, small slate, double ended clip, jon line).
There you have it. Old school meets new world. This works for me. It may not be everything, but its a bunch. This configuration has evolved many times over the years, and I often experiment with different things when I get inspired, or find a problem to fix, or when I get a great idea from another diver. That's how I find out what works for me, and that's how I continue to make it better. It is optimized for my diving activities and my personal needs, and I know it won't work for everyone. But the system I used to get here is one that anyone can use to make decisions for themselves. For those of you who remain staunchly comitted to their strict DIR implementation, that is your choice. The only question I have for you, is this: If you haven't tried something different, how can you know that it isn't better?
I encourage your feedback and thoughts.
Adam