The new Freedom Contour - The Rolex of backplates.

[aquacat8]

Oh those are cool!

 

[MAKO Spearguns]

Thanks! It is a very old design but people stopped making them maybe 30 years ago. They were more popular when people used wire type buckles on the belts that had a male and female end. The slots allowed a diver avoid removing one of the buckle parts to change lead.

We had the I-Weight mold custom made for our exclusive use.

 

[aquacat8]

Are they secure on web belt and rubber freediving belt?

 

[aquacat8]

I am starting to feel uncomfortable about handling shot weights. They drool gray water that just looks toxic, and they take a long time to dry. Coated weights are obviously a good choice but not readily available. At least the solid lead isn’t always rubbing together producing lead dust.

 

[MAKO Spearguns]

Yes they are secure. If you have not tried a rubber weight belt, you will be pleasantly surprised at how comfortable and stable it is.

 

[ams511]

I am starting to feel uncomfortable about handling shot weights. They drool gray water that just looks toxic, and they take a long time to dry. Coated weights are obviously a good choice but not readily available. At least the solid lead isn’t always rubbing together producing lead dust.

If memory serves me correctly there are a few threads on here about sealing lead block weights.

 

[lowviz]

I am starting to feel uncomfortable about handling shot weights. They drool gray water that just looks toxic, and they take a long time to dry. Coated weights are obviously a good choice but not readily available. ...//...

You are spot-on with respect to your concern. Lead 'tarnishes' in moist environments. Shot weights have an enormous surface area. the tarnish is lead oxide and the more the base metal is scratched, the more it tarnishes. If you have any doubts, get a cheap lead test kit from a hardware store and test the gray sludge.

Hard weights are fine. Problem solved years ago, see pic of a 10 pound hip weight. (OK, it needs some attention...) Use any good metal primer. Don't use zinc primer, it won't do anything for lead and it is not as adherent as a really good primer.

Pick a color that suits you, I use machine gray.

 

[Anthony A.]

@Eric Sedletzky

Does the tank adaptor position the tank at a slight angle (ie. its closer to the back of your head and further away from your butt) or is it completely straight when on your back?

Also, any way to custom make the tank adaptor to push it further away from your back?

 

[stuartv]

@Eric Sedletzky

Does the tank adaptor position the tank at a slight angle (ie. its closer to the back of your head and further away from your butt) or is it completely straight when on your back?

Also, any way to custom make the tank adaptor to push it further away from your back?

I don't want to speak for Eric, but the tank rails on my FP definitely position the butt of the tank further away from my body than the tank valve. And, you could buy longer carriage bolts and put spacers in between the plate and rail, if you wanted to.

 

[Aloha Joe]

Mine sits against my back with the rails pretty vertical.

I dive 7mm suit, 5mm boots and with AL80 in the ocean. I’m at 18lbs added weight (24 total plus regs and cam buckles). I have pockets on my upper cam band for two 4lb weights and wear a 10lb belt. For me it makes perfect trim. Swapping the 4 and 5lb weights makes a difference and caused my head to sink.

I just added D rings where the shoulder bult loops behind the plate and becomes the waist belt. It seems perfect for SMB and spool.

I REALLY want the Apeks wing, the shape looks perfect for the freedom plate. Low profile and it extends away from the diver when inflated.